So... you are going to change the fork sliders too?

 

OP - Unless you just have your heart set on doing it, I don't think it will ever pay you back. The sealed bearings aren't expensive, nor is the tooling if you DIY. Compared to wheels, sliders, swingarm, axles, etc., the cost and effort to maintain the factory bearings is miniscule.

 

Crap. I did not think of that.

 

probably not the answer you want but the pertinent info, issues and options.

2000+ bearings are 52mm OD. Your 9276 is ID 25mm x OD 52mm x W 15mm. Which is a industrial 6205 bearing, 6205-2RS(2 rubber seals). https://cad.timken.com/item/deep-gro...gs/6205h-2rs-f

Timken Set 2(LM11949 cone and LM11910 cup) for '99 down are a 1.781 in OD(45.237 mm). Full Timken dimensions https://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-...m11949-lm11910

Yes it may seem possible to turn up a sleeve and press it in the hub to convert a 2000+ wheel to tapered Timken Set 2 sizes. Not so much a solution on a bike with a 25mm axle as you would be going backwards to a .750" axle HD has moved on from for rigidity. Which involves fork tubes, swingarm, spacers, caliper mounts that the axles all run through. There's also a seal issue.


There are metric tapered bearings. Such as Timken 30205, that is ID 25mm x OD x 52mm x W16.25. https://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-...30205m-y30205m

This answers the OD & ID problem but creates a width issue. 1.25mm more in width doesn't seem so much of a issue, just make new spacers and mill down caliper mounts, right, but it is. The bore depth on the factory wheels, while it is deep enough to fit. Does not allow any needed remaining depth to install the now needed traditional wheel/rotary shaft seal being about 5-6mm thick. Leaving you with a unsealed bearing. While there are seals out there like rubber lipped Nilos seals for tapered bearings they are not intended for this use and won't work well for it. They are better suited for keeping dirt and debris out vs grease in for items like neck/steering bearings.

If the bike has ABS. Harley's ABS tone ring is in the seal of the bearing which would be lost

The deep groove ball bearings are all over in wheel bearing applications in motorcycles and have been for decades from countless motorcycle manufactures. In a motorcycle wheel bearings don't see the lateral loading we associate with a car in a corner unless it is a trike or a sidecar rig(and in those due to vehicle weight/traction it's still much less). Simply, motorcycles lean keeping the load in line with the bearing . Yes, I personally prefer tapered for serviceability and the overkill aspect for the application. However I have no issues with deep groove or angular ball bearings.

A option for a upgraded ball bearing. Brocks/World Wide Bearing Hybrid Ceramic ball bearings. By far the most durable off the shelf option that doesn't involve redesigning, swapping parts.... like wheels, axles, fork, swingarm, caliper mounts to solve something that is a non-issue. https://brocksperformance.com/cerami...-9276-25mm-id/

 

Thanks. I looked into all those ideas. I found metric tapered roller bearings in the stock size but thinner at 14.35 mm. I will probably order a set and a seal so I can compare measurements when I get my wheel off to change my current bad bearing.

My idea would is to bore the hub deeper and shorten the axle spacer to keep all the stock spacers usable. Then get a 52 mm by 38 mm grease seal, which is the diameter of the left and right wheel spacers.

I just like the idea of serviceable bearing. My 1978 Ramcharger with 1 ton axles have tapered bearings and are simple to service, just the cost of a new seal and grease.

 

rust. you wash your bike a lot? or has this been sitting in the rain for a few years? even the spacer looks very weathered
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No. Either under a cover or in the garage.

 

Well I think I have it figured out. I found 52 mm by 25 mm tapered roller bearings and 52 mm by 38 mm seals. I bought a cheap set for mock up and will later switch to Timken bearings.

All I have to do is machine the hub bores deeper to fit the bearings and seals, machine the inner axle spacer to the proper length and have the outer spacers made to proper length. This set up will use the current forks, axle and axle washer/nut.