2001 fatboy issues
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4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 8
Likes: 6
From: indiana
2001 fatboy issues
OK, so my buddy has a 2001 Fatboy. With TSSM. His issue is that when he is riding the bike will randomly kill power to the engine. His turn signals still work. He has to cycle the ignition and soon as he does the bike starts right back up and goes. I took a look at it, and the main circuit breaker was fried and broken so i replaced that with no change. There are no trouble codes that pop up. It did come with a TSSM. However when he bought the bike, the secuitry has been disabled and the key fob has never worked since he has owned the bike. So im not sure if they replaced the TSSM with a TSM to disable the security or not. When he first got the bike it ran great no issues. It was after about a year or so of owning the bike this problem started. The only thing we can think of that he has changed in that time would be he disconnected the Halo light in his head light because it would stay on and drain his battery. That and changing his spark plug wires. I have researched this over and over and it keeps pointing to the Bank Angle Sensor which is built into the TSSM. However like i said he does not loose turn signals when the bike stalls out. It only kills power to the engine nothing else. Ive checked all fuses, and replaced circuit breaker. Im a good mechanic, i am somewhat decent at electrical but its not my specialty. If anyone can help it would greatly appreciated. I know this is driving him crazy and we can just not seem to get it figured out.
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,068
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From: San Diego, CA
That year TSSM has active security.... To use the security, you push the FOB button to activate it, and then also push the FOB button to deactivate it. As long as you don't activate the security system, the security system will never turn on.... So you can "deactivate" the security system on an early Twin Cam by just NOT turning it on....If you don't have a FOB to turn it on, you don't have to remove the TSSM and replace it with a TSM... It will never activate..
I'm not saying it can't be the BAS (bank angle sensor), but when it gets activated it usually displays a tip message in the speedo LCD....
Since you found the main circuit breaker fried and broken, I would next check the main rotary ignition switch. It's pretty easy to check & clean. Those switches have make/break contacts that can get corroded/dirty over time and cause all sorts of ignition/running glitches... When you cycle them on/off, they temporarily work again for a short time.
It is easy to disassemble and check/clean the contacts of that switch. I would take pics of it as you disassemble it, because there are some small parts that need to go back together in the proper order/position. If you find it very heavily pitted/corroded, you might need to buy a new one, but there are many posts of people, myself included, who were able to disassemble it and clean it up tpo work well again.. Recently, a person posted of an electrical glitch, who removed the rotary ignition switch to disassemble, check, and clean it. He found one opf the spade connectors for a power wire heavily corroded... He just needed to clean that up to get it working again...
Good luck with your diagnosis and repair... please report back what you find...
I'm not saying it can't be the BAS (bank angle sensor), but when it gets activated it usually displays a tip message in the speedo LCD....
Since you found the main circuit breaker fried and broken, I would next check the main rotary ignition switch. It's pretty easy to check & clean. Those switches have make/break contacts that can get corroded/dirty over time and cause all sorts of ignition/running glitches... When you cycle them on/off, they temporarily work again for a short time.
It is easy to disassemble and check/clean the contacts of that switch. I would take pics of it as you disassemble it, because there are some small parts that need to go back together in the proper order/position. If you find it very heavily pitted/corroded, you might need to buy a new one, but there are many posts of people, myself included, who were able to disassemble it and clean it up tpo work well again.. Recently, a person posted of an electrical glitch, who removed the rotary ignition switch to disassemble, check, and clean it. He found one opf the spade connectors for a power wire heavily corroded... He just needed to clean that up to get it working again...
Good luck with your diagnosis and repair... please report back what you find...
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 8
Likes: 6
From: indiana
That year TSSM has active security.... To use the security, you push the FOB button to activate it, and then also push the FOB button to deactivate it. As long as you don't activate the security system, the security system will never turn on.... So you can "deactivate" the security system on an early Twin Cam by just NOT turning it on....If you don't have a FOB to turn it on, you don't have to remove the TSSM and replace it with a TSM... It will never activate..
I'm not saying it can't be the BAS (bank angle sensor), but when it gets activated it usually displays a tip message in the speedo LCD....
Since you found the main circuit breaker fried and broken, I would next check the main rotary ignition switch. It's pretty easy to check & clean. Those switches have make/break contacts that can get corroded/dirty over time and cause all sorts of ignition/running glitches... When you cycle them on/off, they temporarily work again for a short time.
It is easy to disassemble and check/clean the contacts of that switch. I would take pics of it as you disassemble it, because there are some small parts that need to go back together in the proper order/position. If you find it very heavily pitted/corroded, you might need to buy a new one, but there are many posts of people, myself included, who were able to disassemble it and clean it up tpo work well again.. Recently, a person posted of an electrical glitch, who removed the rotary ignition switch to disassemble, check, and clean it. He found one opf the spade connectors for a power wire heavily corroded... He just needed to clean that up to get it working again...
Good luck with your diagnosis and repair... please report back what you find...
I'm not saying it can't be the BAS (bank angle sensor), but when it gets activated it usually displays a tip message in the speedo LCD....
Since you found the main circuit breaker fried and broken, I would next check the main rotary ignition switch. It's pretty easy to check & clean. Those switches have make/break contacts that can get corroded/dirty over time and cause all sorts of ignition/running glitches... When you cycle them on/off, they temporarily work again for a short time.
It is easy to disassemble and check/clean the contacts of that switch. I would take pics of it as you disassemble it, because there are some small parts that need to go back together in the proper order/position. If you find it very heavily pitted/corroded, you might need to buy a new one, but there are many posts of people, myself included, who were able to disassemble it and clean it up tpo work well again.. Recently, a person posted of an electrical glitch, who removed the rotary ignition switch to disassemble, check, and clean it. He found one opf the spade connectors for a power wire heavily corroded... He just needed to clean that up to get it working again...
Good luck with your diagnosis and repair... please report back what you find...
Im sorry i forgot to mention that we did replace the Ignition switch with a known working one off another buddies bike.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 1,353
From: Black Hills of SD
If you are certain it is not the ignition **** - I would start by checking the side stand safety switch or neutral safety switch. Also, since it sounds like it may have had some hands-on things previously and ended badly for the circuit breaker - Look for any loose wire or worn wire points that could be shorting to ground or causing an open when a bump is hit. Will it die if just allowed to run on a stand or parked? Maybe try wiggling things while it is running on a stand. Turn the bars full lock-to-lock while running. Check the start / stop switch too, corrosion, loose wire ect....
Another one - Maybe one of the three wires going into the ignition **** you changed out has backed out of its socket. That connector does do a pretty tight bend to get hooked up on the spades.
Another one - Maybe one of the three wires going into the ignition **** you changed out has backed out of its socket. That connector does do a pretty tight bend to get hooked up on the spades.
Last edited by MarlinSpike; Mar 13, 2023 at 04:46 PM.
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 8
Likes: 6
From: indiana
If you are certain it is not the ignition **** - I would start by checking the side stand safety switch or neutral safety switch. Also, since it sounds like it may have had some hands-on things previously and ended badly for the circuit breaker - Look for any loose wire or worn wire points that could be shorting to ground or causing an open when a bump is hit. Will it die if just allowed to run on a stand or parked? Maybe try wiggling things while it is running on a stand. Turn the bars full lock-to-lock while running. Check the start / stop switch too, corrosion, loose wire ect....
well, when he first starts it and lets it idle to warm up, it is carbureted, usually within 3 to 5 min it will die. it will not turn back on unless the ignition is cycled. Same when riding. Always have to cycle the ignition. Which points to the BAS. However no codes thrown. We have found bad wires, broken wires. Fixed those. Still no change. Replacing the ground cable tonight, although its starts fine, stays running unless this issue happens randomly as it does. Will check the run/kill switch and see if anything in there is corroded. and the kickstand and neutral safety switch.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,068
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From: San Diego, CA
well, when he first starts it and lets it idle to warm up, it is carbureted, usually within 3 to 5 min it will die. it will not turn back on unless the ignition is cycled. Same when riding. Always have to cycle the ignition. Which points to the BAS. However no codes thrown. We have found bad wires, broken wires. Fixed those. Still no change. Replacing the ground cable tonight, although its starts fine, stays running unless this issue happens randomly as it does. Will check the run/kill switch and see if anything in there is corroded. and the kickstand and neutral safety switch.
Well, you're between a rock and a hard spot....
It apparently has had numerous electrical issues.... without doing a proper check, and finding a measurable issue, it will be hard to tell if your are replacing good parts or what....
I wish I knew how to actually check the BAS, but electrical stuff isn't my strong suite.... With an intermittent issue, unless you waited for it to die, then checked the BAS before cycling the ignition, you may never know...
I am not at home for a few days.... when I get back I'll try to remember to look at my 2001 electrical diagnostic manual to see what it says about the BAS and how to check it... But I have to admit, the older twin cam electrical checks frequently are based on using a break out box, and they lose me...
Hopefully someone will square you away before I get home...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,068
Likes: 11,086
From: San Diego, CA
FWIW.... neither my'01 carbed softail nor my '03 EFI softail have a kickstand safety switch that am aware of.... or a neutral safety switch that I've ever had to deal with....
But I could be wrong..
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2021
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From: Black Hills of SD
Then I may be completely wrong. I guess I am going to have to check my bike.
- But I thought my bike had both of those safeties - You know, to protect me from myself.
Sorry if I misinformed you. It sure sounds like a sensor issue. As Mr. H stated, the only way to troubleshoot this kind of problem is with a voltmeter and checking after the problem arises. Otherwise, it turns into a throwing-parts-at-it kind of troubleshooting.
Maybe there is a way to bypass the Angle Sensor?
- But I thought my bike had both of those safeties - You know, to protect me from myself.
Sorry if I misinformed you. It sure sounds like a sensor issue. As Mr. H stated, the only way to troubleshoot this kind of problem is with a voltmeter and checking after the problem arises. Otherwise, it turns into a throwing-parts-at-it kind of troubleshooting.
Maybe there is a way to bypass the Angle Sensor?
Last edited by MarlinSpike; Mar 14, 2023 at 08:51 AM.