If I'm seeing it right, your primary oil level looks high actually.
Remember, it's not supposed to be up to the lip, it's only to be up to the edge of the clutch basket.

 

This is so strange to me, I swear I checked the oil and it was normal level and re checked and it was higher by a crazy amount.. maybe the mechanic did overfill. I’ll find out Tuesday. Wish I was more mechanically inclined. Thanks guys. Is there another spot there could be a leak into my engine oil? Transmission maybe?

 

Well, it seems you just can't finger it out high oil. So one thing you could do is remove the oil in a clean container measure it to make sure its the right amount or not, and put it back in. It is possible when he changed the oil, he didn't drain it all out in the first place.

 

Primary oil level looks OK, certainly not low.....

Many techs/shops just throw a quart in and call it close enough......

 

Ya know, an option is to redrain and refill the engine and primary, being careful to make sure things are filled just right, and go from there.

Right now you're not at all sure what's happened or why you've got a high engine oil level.

For the cost of a few quarts of oil, you and your mechanic can get it right, then monitor it to see if it does in fact change.

 

Highly unlikely, trans oil usually migrates to the primary, via the hollow clutch release pushrod... that was an issue with the early touring M8 bikes.

FYI....

The engine pumps pressurized oil though it's system, and the cases (sump) have pressure pulses from the pistons moving up & down. For these reasons, engine oil leaks usually come FROM the engine and not TO the engine...

The reason Harley Softail engines get too much oil, is usually due to their style of a dry sump oil system. The oil is supposed to stay in the oil tank, above the engine, not in the sump or cases of the engine. The Twin Cams, and as far as I know M8s, unlike the shovelheads and EVO engines, do not have a check valve between the oil tank and the sump. The geroters in the oil pump block the oil from flowing to the sump from the oil tank.

As pumps wear, and just through normal differences in fitment tolerances, Softails will start to allow the oil from the tank, to seep past the oil pump geroters, and settle in the cases (sump) while the bike is not running. This oil transfer is sometimes called wet sumping, but not to be confused with the sumping that occurs when the engine is running, and not properly returning the oil to the oil tank. It can take months, weeks, or several days of non-use for this oil transfer to happen. Obviously, if your oil tank drains overnight, you have an oil pump issue. The slow transfer of the oil into the sump when the bike is not being used isn't usually a problem, as long as you always let the engine warm up BEFORE checking the oil (as suggested in the owner's manual).

As the engine warms up, any excess oil in the sump will be pumped by the scavenge side of the oil pump, back into the oil tank fairly quickly. If you check the oil on a cold Softail, and it has excess oil in the sump, the tank will read low, and you will add engine oil. After it warms up, it will have all the excess oil from the sump AND the extra oil you added in the oil tank and read high. There have been many reports that you can overfill a Softail enough that when it warms up, it will blow the oil cap off the tank and have a tsunami of oil erupt form the tank. It gets all over your bike, and pant leg.. (don't ask how I know)

You mentioned you had a sumping problem with your bike that you had to deal with. If it was sumping while you were riding it, and they fixed that issue, it is possible that there were issues with the cam chest reassembly, that could cause your bike to allow oil transfer rapidly when off, lead to an overfilled condition, and give conflicting oil levels based on when and how the oil is checked.. possible, but not probable..

However, no disrespect intended, it seems your overfilled oil issue is most likely due to "operator error" rather than an actual mechanical issue with your bike..

In any case, I will be looking to see what you post up as the resolution after your mechanic gives the bike an inspection.. I could very easily learn something from this..

Good luck with your mechanic's inspection...

 

Hmmm thank you for all your insight. Still stumped on it til I can speak with the guys tomorrow. Just to clarify when my engine sumped I got the new oil pump as well as new cams and all the other pricey stuff. There was already damage done so I had no choice in the matter, which eliminates the chances even more that it’s an issue related to that.. from what all you guys are saying I have my fingers crossed they just did an F up and added to much oil… way to much… they’re very experienced so I just find it hard to believe it was overfilled which is causing all the stress lol. Hey thanks guys you guys rock for trying to help. Keep you posted as I find out more.

 

Just wanted to thank you all again it’s very appreciated. As most of you suspected it was just an overlook from my mechanic. I guess a matter of just a couple ounces can make it look like a dramatic difference. No burnt oil smell and cams were completed so no signs of another sump issue. Best news possible lol. Thanks guys I’ll be more aware if it happens again.

 

Since the book calls for checking the oil with the bike on the jiffy stand you have to be sure you are checking the oil with the bike parked in the same spot each time. Any slight deviation from level ground can have a big effect on the apparent oil level. I always make sure to park in the same spot in the garage and check the oil under the same conditions (hot-immediately after a ride).

 

so on the jiffy stand is the correct way to check the twin cam88?