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Parasitic draw

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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 01:52 PM
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Default Parasitic draw

2014 fxsbparasitic draw. I have checked and replaced battery. Voltage regulator etc. All the easy stuff. The weird part. It draws 66 ma. drains battery overnight sitting. If I disconect the battery and hook back up then the draw goes to 9 ma. And will stay charged for months. If I hit the start button it will remain 66ma until battery dies.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 02:01 PM
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Check and clean both your battery cables at both ends. Corrosion around the starter terminals can do wonky things, besides draw current. then check your starter or solenoid. Then regulator and maybe the stator after that if the problem persists.
If none of that helps, then take it into a qualified technician...if you have an alarm or anti-theft mechanism on board, it could be running a fault. that's about all I can offer from behind my keyboard...

Hope that helps.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 02:42 PM
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I have done all those things. I have also had it to the local hd shop. I won't say wich one...they had it for 2 months and said they were talking to mother harley mechanics...what ever that means. They changed abs module and then were stumped when that didn't work either. I eventually just went and got it cause they weren't making any progress. I ended up putting a remote battery disconect key fob in. Besides the clock resetting every time. It worked good all last year. I just thought I'd try to get it figured out correctly this year. Riding time is fast aproaching. I was kinda hoping someone lived in Wisconsin and was an electrical guru and wanted to look at it.
I'm thinking possible bcm but I want to get a thundermax tuner installed first then change the bcm. If my local dealer will take the time to help.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 04:07 PM
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That 9 mA or so is normal when you first hit the negative. Everthing firing up. However, it should trim to 2.5 mA or so in 30 seconds.

Obviously, something is staying in on that first starter hit to hang at 66 mA

Thinking your year is start of BCM. If so that complicates it further. Has the stator been checked for proper OHM and for grounds?
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 8, 2024 at 04:10 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 04:18 PM
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Welcome to the forum from central Texas. Sit down, take a breath and relax.

The first thing I would say is to avoid replacing parts until you diagnose the problem. Your Harley dealer had your bike for two months and all they determined was the ABS module was bad but it wasn't ? Did they charge you for the new ABS module? I hope not.

The ideal first step is what SirHarley mentioned. Check the battery and charging system. It is easy and costs nothing. Once that it done and ruled out, the diagnosis becomes more challenging.

We all know electrical gremlins can be difficult, at best, to solve. Most would also agree that a 66mA parasitic draw is excessive.

There are going to be many questions. First, was any work done on the bike (changing handlebars, removing and replacing the seat, anything) prior to you noticing the draw. It could be as simple as a chafed wire that is grounded or shorted.

Did the dealership narrow down the possibilities, at least, by pulling fuses to see if it was limited to a particular circuit or wire(s) ? You stated the excessive drain doesn't begin until the start button is pressed after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. Could it be the start button itself or the ignition switch? Did the dealership consider those? Did you ever determine what was causing the clock to reset "every time" ?

Where and how are you measuring the parasitic draw ?

Let's start with these and others will chime in.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 04:42 PM
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The shop had it more than 2 months total. They checked everything. The stator doesn't reverse drain everything checks out good. With the bcm set up there is only 3 fuses. 40 amp main 15 amp battery and a 15 amp for accessories. So the pull fuses till you see the ma drop doesn't work.
The clock resets everytime because if i let the bike sit for more than 5 hours i have a remote battery disconect that i use. Then when i turn it on it resupplys the power...basically a battery change everytime.
I have it now in my garage tore apart unplugging one thing at a time and then I see if I have a dead battery in the morning. I did this before and it never worked wich is why I'm leaning towards bcm.
. Thanks for the ideas and help it's appreciated
I check the ma reading between the battery negative and the cable. So the readings go threw the reader.
 

Last edited by Mitchapoolaza; Apr 8, 2024 at 04:45 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 02:03 AM
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If anyone is still following this....I did some more probing around and found that with key OFF. The plug for the rear o2 sensor (red/gray) wire which I beleave is the heater part shows that it has power. My question is...shouldn't that be dead until I turn the key on? Thanks
 
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 04:35 AM
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How does the other O2 sensor check out?

The electrical diagnostic manual shows all the parts that receive power with the bike turned off and the amount they draw.

I wouldn't call it parasitic draw as the BCM, ECM, hand controls and speedo are always on not that they are drawing power because something is not right with them.
 

Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Apr 9, 2024 at 04:39 AM.
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 05:02 AM
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I wouldn't think you should have continuous power to a 02 heater.
What Andy said by comparing the other O2 circuit.
 

Last edited by L88; Apr 9, 2024 at 05:10 AM.
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 05:13 AM
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Do you have
a radio
an alarm
a digital speedometer?
They all have a memory feature and need constant power
If your batteries dying over night you need a new battery and put it on a tender
whenever you're not riding.
My 94 FXSTC has nothing with a memory and the battery drains after 2 weeks if I don't ride it.
 

Last edited by RANGER73; Apr 9, 2024 at 06:40 AM.
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