Early cold morning tried to start my bike it turned over and tried to crank 3 times and then completely stopped now it will not turn over at all it only sounds like the fuel pump is engaging and the headlights dim nothing else
also I have a solid red indicator light on the speedometer that lights up what could the problem be?

 

IMHO...

Anytime there is a possible electrical problem, I always start with verifying a good, solid 12 volt source. Test your battery. Not just voltage, but do a load test.

If you don't have a battery load tester, do the following:

Check static voltage of battery, from terminal to terminal, with a volt meter and record the voltage.

Turn on ignition, and check that voltage again. Record that voltage.

If you need a second set of hands for this one, recruit a helper. While measuring the voltage between the battery terminals, with the ignition "on", hit the starter button. The voltage should do a momentary drop from the starter being engaged. If that voltage is below 10V, you have a weak battery. If that voltage is below 9.5 Volts, your battery is most likely toast.



If the battery fails the load test, check cables for tightness and corrosion. Make sure to check the ground cable to frame connection. It is known to work loose on Softails and cause all sorts of electrical issues. If cables are good, battery is highly suspect.

If 12V source is verified as good, then check codes... They could point you in the right direction...

Let us know what happens with those checks, then we can go from there...

 

12.9 on battery it drops to 12.7 when I hit the start button.

 

12.9V on battery.. was that after disconnecting any tenders/chargers? You should wait about an hour after disconnecting tenders/chargers to burn off the surface charge...

What was the voltage when you turned on the ignition switch, before hitting the starter button?

12.7V is pretty high for when the starter first kicks in. Did you note the voltage at the lowest point during that short power drop, right when the start button was first hit? A good battery will often drop into the 11V area....

Have you checked for any codes yet?

 

Is there a way to check codes without a OBD reader or taking it to the dealership?
Checked all fuses they are good even changed out starter relay still nothing.

 

Did you check the starter relay before replacing it? My suggestion would be to only replace parts you find to be defective. It can get exensive and still not fix your problem. Better to do a proper diagnosis of the problem than to guess...

Here is how you check for codes on your bike. Make sure to write them down before clearing them...

1. Turn the ignition switch to the "Off" position. This resets the system and prepares it for diagnostics.
2. Press and hold the odometer reset button.
3. While holding the odometer reset button, turn the ignition switch to the "On" position.
4. Release the odometer reset button. You should now be in diagnostic mode.
5. Cycle through the modules: Keep pressing the odometer reset button to cycle through the different modules (ECM, BCM, Speedometer, ABS, etc.).
6. Check for DTCs: When you are on the module you want to check, the display will show "Y" if there are codes or "N" if there are no codes.
7. Read the DTCs: If there are codes, press and hold the odometer reset button to display the DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).

Clearing DTCs:

• To clear the DTCs, press and hold the odometer reset button for longer than 5 seconds until "clear" appears on the display.
• Release the odometer reset button.
• Turn the ignition switch off.
• Turn the bike on and check the DTCs again to see if the codes are current or historical

 

Take the battery out and have it load tested.

 

BCM code 62121
SPD code 62272
These are the codes that come up.

 

I think the "6" you recorded is actually a "b".....


b2121 = Starter Output open
Could be caused by a weak/dead battery, or an issue within the starter solenoid

b2272 = BCM/IM voltage high
Could be due to a 12v spike, or you could have a bad voltage regulator.

As these two relate to your reported symptoms/issue:
1) "tried to crank 3 times and then completely stopped now it will not turn over at all"
2) "sounds like the fuel pump is engaging and the headlights dim nothing else")

You seem to have voltage, but not enough to properly turn over the engine.

You never reported back on all three voltages I suggested to check in the load test I outlined above. I suspect you didn't perform and/or read voltages properly. At this point it doesn't matter. That test I shared is just a quick check/guide. IMHO... It's time for a good, proper load test.

The first thing I would do is properly load test the battery. Fully charge the battery on a battery charger (a battery tender could take a lot longer to charge a low/dead battery). Let it sit, disconnected from any charger. If charged in the bike, wait an hour or two. If charged out of the bike, and not attached to any loads, wait longer. The longer you wait, the more accurate the test. I usually wait 2hrs if installed in the bike, and 24hrs out of the bike, with no loads on the battery. Then use a dedicated battery tester to check the condition of the battery. You can buy one (they are not that expensive) or many auto parts places loan them and/or will check your battery for you if you bring them the battery.

After checking the battery (if good, reinstall it/ if bad, replace it), I would also check the voltage regulator. That too is a pretty simple test with multimeter. Then I would check the stator. Again, a fairly easy test with a multimeter.

There is a power triangle, comprised of the battery, the Stator, and the Voltage Regulator. If one of those three fail, they can ruin one, or both, of the other two depending on how the original part fails..

Google "harley voltage regulator test".

Here is just one video that will come up:


You can do the same for the stator & regulator.

If after getting good test results in all three of those (or bad tests and their replacement), I would suspect an issue with the solenoid.

It's easier and faster to do the above checks, then to remove the starter, open up the solenoid, and to inspect it...

Since I am not there to see, hear, and/or feel what is actually happening, just based on your reports and the codes, IMHO, you could be lucky and just have a bad battery.

Others may have more/different insight and experiences to guide you in your diagnosis of the issue...

Good luck and keep us posted....