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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 06:58 AM
  #21  
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is this the gasket kit I'll likely need?

https://www.jpcycles.com/product/jam...kets?rrec=true

I haven't clue where I'll end up before done.
But have enough tools to be more than dangerous

It will depend when (if) I can determine exactly where and what is wrong.
If that's a relatively minor part cost, I might be able to scrounge up a thousand or more for some upgrades and/or preventative replacements

SIDE NOTE
plan is cam side first.
I'll mic run out as Stiggy suggested. pull cams and look for obvious issues

really don't now where to go from there.
The noise sure seems lower front to my unexperienced ear

all suggestions welcome





thanks

KTF
 

Last edited by Cap77; Jun 25, 2025 at 07:00 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 08:35 AM
  #22  
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Make sure when you open the cam chest, to look at the inside of the oil pump.

Pull it apart carefully if you'e never done it, maybe take pics. There are two pairs of gerotors, 2 separator plates, and a spring separator (wavy washer) that need to go together in the correct order. Also, when reassembling the oil pump, the main o-ring on it that fits into the case needs to be installed properly. If it is kinked, or not fitted properly, the bike will sump. Easy stuff, just pay attention to details.






I mention checking the oil pump because it will show if metal pieces have gone through it...

On my friend's bike, his pinion run-out measured 0.0025", which is excellent. It wasn't until I looked into the oil pump that I discovered he had a serious problem..

There will be signs of wear on the oil pimp, but scratches that are deep and easily felt with your finger nail are a sign of a problem... It means something other than oil has gone through the pump


 

Last edited by hattitude; Jun 25, 2025 at 08:37 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 08:48 AM
  #23  
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Excellent advice from Mr. H !
To add, "maybe take pic's" - Take a LOT of pictures as you go. More than you think you need to. Especially if this will be done over time and not a fast in & out. Pic's can save the day.

It's not hard, actually pretty easy to work on the cam area. Drain the oil first.

I threw out the thought of running the bike on a stand and listening - I don't remember what or if you tried that? Sure be nice to have a little more of an idea where the noise is coming from, other than just the lower front. But I understand, noises are very hard to locate, especially if it is only when in gear and the rear wheel is rolling.

Good luck. You have people that can help you out here. You have the service manual? That will be your best friend for a while.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 09:10 AM
  #24  
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You have the service manual?

yep to FSM


​​​​​​​noises are very hard to locat


the knock/bloop/bump/slap noise (hard to describe) is always there at idle .
More so when cold, less loud when hot.
Disappears with some throttle
been like that for 10k miles or so

The bearing chatter/buzz (that just started) is only when in low gear appx 2000 rpm no load and very intermittent
(maybe 6-8 times in the last 100 miles)
and knock/bloop/bump/slap is now noticeably worse too


KTF
 
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 12:02 PM
  #25  
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Keep in mind, you have an entire balancer system that could be making that noise. It's possible it is in need of attention. It's on the cam chest side, forward inside the cases. The balancing system has bearings, chains, sprockets, and chain tensioners, that run off a gear on the flywheel shaft. All that could possibly wear and/or develop an issue.

While the balancers have not been problematic through the years, crap does happen and I have heard of some needing attention.... usually at high mileage.. 80K+.. but keep an open mind during your diagnosis.

I've never checked one or had to work on one. I currently have 3 Twin Cam Softails, at different levels of mods, and I have never had a balancer issue... but I guess it could happen.

I offer this only to help your diagnosis, if you are able to locate exactly where the noise is coming from. Again, just something to keep in the back of your mind as you check for the cause of your noise.


 
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 07:20 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Cap77
is this the gasket kit I'll likely need?

https://www.jpcycles.com/product/jam...kets?rrec=true

I haven't clue where I'll end up before done.
But have enough tools to be more than dangerous

It will depend when (if) I can determine exactly where and what is wrong.
If that's a relatively minor part cost, I might be able to scrounge up a thousand or more for some upgrades and/or preventative replacements

SIDE NOTE
plan is cam side first.
I'll mic run out as Stiggy suggested. pull cams and look for obvious issues

really don't now where to go from there.
The noise sure seems lower front to my unexperienced ear

all suggestions welcome





thanks

KTF
Skip the James, they are a used to be company, either factory or Cometic gaskets on the bikes. Pricey but factory gaskets are the best out for twin cams & M8's.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 10:09 PM
  #27  
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I go for cometic, Harley had a bulletin to use the old single lip seals before going to double seals for tranny shifter.

I am ole fashioned. stay away from harley, the company who sold you the leaking bike to begin with
 
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Old Jun 26, 2025 | 05:03 AM
  #28  
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I've got a (HD) Twin Cam cam cover gasket for a bike no longer with me that I'll happily drop in the mail for you.
PM an address when you get a moment.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2025 | 06:48 AM
  #29  
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I seem to recall that that balancer R&R requires specific tools ?

OP has the FSM , does it confirm this ?


 
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Old Jun 26, 2025 | 06:56 AM
  #30  
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Its not worth mailing a cover gasket if you ask me. Plus I have a feeling he will be buying a set. I got old gaskets I never used in my garage. I am not sure I would even use them, I would buy new. I just keep them around cause I am a pack rat and think what if

Going to need to pull top end to check run out, to get push rods out. I would also pull jugs and check for sticky crank bearing, if you don't find a smoking gun. The rods should freely fall when let go. This is tough to judge, I discovered when I had my top end off.

2004 were not a bad bike, and mileage is low, I surprised it is something bad, or anything, but here you are. Second year post timken, but I don't recall if there were any issues that were resolved on following years.
 
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