If I thought piggy back tuner, I would first unplug and reseat.

 

If the light go out when the issue occurs, it may be the main circuit breaker.. You might want to look into the terminals.. They can get a poor connection between the terminal and wire. They create heat which causes the circuit breaker to overheat.

 

Is your fuel tank venting as it should?

 

I have no knowledge of the add-ons but 30-40 miles seems like the time it would take for everything to come up to temperature. Maybe something fails because it got hot.

 

Well I changed gas cap and ignition still shuts off. So I pulled the power commander from the bike and put over 500 miles on it and it hasn't shut off and is running fine. With PC I got 45mpg without getting 42. Call the local Harley dealer and the mechanic said it should be fine.

Walt

 

I'd get a different mechanic. You have changed out the cam and exhaust. I would hope air cleaner too. So I would think it is running lean.

 

I have to agree with Rounders.....

I was reluctant to suggest that you to drive it 50-60 miles with aftermarket cams and no tuner, to see if the issue was with the Power Commander Module...

You have found the issue was with the Power Commander module... But that doesn't mean you don't need a tune...

I am not a tuner, but I have never heard a reputable tuner say it's OK to change cams and NOT change the tune...

I would suggest that without a tune, you are on borrowed time.

If I am wrong, I am willing to learn.

There are several good tuners on this forum. If they were to chime in and say it's OK, I'd accept their opinion...

 

I really do appreciate all your advice. I use to run dirt bikes and had quite a few. I was constantly changing jets trying to get them to run just right. Now I was tought the spark plug is the key indicator of how the fuel is burning. When I pulled and changed the plugs when I took the PC out the plugs were an off white color maybe light gray. Which I thought was OK. Me thinks a yellow insulator is lean. Please correct me if Im wrong. I'm going to pull the plugs tomorrow (500) miles and check them. Not sure if that's long enough to get a good read.

I'm 64 and I like to do things on my bikes myself. My cars go to the mechanic. I got on dynojets website and downloaded the software on my laptop but I couldn't find the serial number on the PC. So that lead me to disconnect and not reset, reprogram.

I bought a laser temp gauge that arrived today. I was going to ride 30 minutes or so and check temps of cylinders and heads. Anyone know what the normal temps should be at operating temperature?

As I said the bike runs great as is. Stock air filter. It doesn't pop or backfire on deceleration, its smooth. runs great at idle, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, 3/4 throttle and full throttle. No top tapping no noise at all. The Harley mechanic told me based on this information I should be fine. He said the bike is only at a stage one since no hi flow air filter. Any input on coloration of the plugs?

Walt

 

If you change the exhaust, but leave the OEM air cleaner in place, you won't increase the airflow through the engine much at all (the air filter being the restriction), so it's not really even a full Stage 1.... The OEM tune should be OK..

When you change the cams, it IS a Stage II. Obviously the cams you change to, will dictate the difference in the engine's needs and performance.... but that is a big change to the air pump (engine).

I have never encountered a Stage II, without both a high flow air cleaner and high flow exhaust. IMHO, it's a waste of money to add cams, and not to not increase the airflow.

If you have cams, high flow exhaust, and OEM intake, you are certainly in a place I am totally unfamiliar with both personally or that I have read about.

Because it is outside my scope of my knowledge or experience, I can't give you good advice particular to your situation. I hope your mechanic is correct. I hope you will be fine. But if I was looking to buy a bike, and learned it had been modded like yours is currently set up, I wouldn't even remotely consider buying it...


Just FWIW....

With the Harley OEM tunes, only part of the tune is Closed Loop (has O2 sensor feedback, and immediate adjustment). Part of the tune map is Open Loop (no feedback from the O2 sensors, and no adjustments). The Open Loop portion is controlled by algorithms, based on the OEM airflow, AFR, and timing.

The Closed Loop portion is in the cruising areas, where most people spend most of their riding time.

The Open Loop portion is in the high rpm (or low RPM) areas of the tune map, with high load, where AFR and timing are most critical. If you spend much time in the Open Loop portions of the tune (either on purpose because you are an aggressive driver, or accidentally due to conditions), your tune could be dangerously inadequate.

Again, the cam profile will determine the extent of your risk. If I were you, I would consult a knowledgeable shop, known for their engine mods and their excellent tuning, for a second opinion....


I wish you luck with your decision to keep the OEM tune....

 

The 01 does not have 02 sensors.. No closed loop.