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Old Aug 16, 2025 | 03:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bone Doc
That's what I'm trying to do. Not understanding your comment.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2025 | 04:01 PM
  #22  
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Everyone wants to criticize me for spending money on parts. Then their suggestions are to pay someone or spend money on something else. Are you guys looking to help people or just cut them down for ignorance or their quest to learn? and think you're better because your bike is running at this time.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2025 | 04:04 PM
  #23  
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They didn't have a pressure tester to loan. $55 and I could have bought one. Instead I bought a new fuel filter replacement kit from Amazon for $40. I know, I spent money on another part, but damn what the hell am I supposed to do? There are no motorcycle mechanics around my area.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2025 | 04:17 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Screamin beagle
Ill be honest...for a guy on a tight budget you're sure spending alot of unnecessary money. Slow down...these are great motorcycles that can have issues just like any thing mechanical or man made. Have you done any fuel system diagnosis? Most auto parts stores will loan tools, find a fuel pressure tester. Im leaning towards a dirty fuel filter, or a faulty regulator maybe? Based on it cutting out in all the gears at higher rpm could indicate a fuel delivery problem.
The back half of your message offered some help. I agree that it indicates a fuel delivery issue. Ordered a new fuel filter from Amazon. It'll be here in the morning. Diagnosis from "pros" is the most expensive thing to purchase around my area. Fuel pressure guage= $55. Kit with new filter, clamps, hoses, screen =$40. Pro using his guage to tell me that I probably need a new fuel filter= $100 Everyone see the financial wisdom is just buying the new kit and changing it myself?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2025 | 04:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MarlinSpike
For the question of changing the injectors.

- The injectors can be replaced by lifting the rear of the tank and blocking it as high as you can get it. It's an easy job, and the only part that is a little tricky is getting the right combination of extensions and holder and get the Torx bit up and in for the fuel inlet holding clamp on the left side of the fuel rail. Other than that, it's pretty straightforward.
If you take the tank off, it is very easy - but that damn crossover fuel line on the tank is a PITA, so I elected to leave the tank in place and just lifted the second time I changed mine.
Yes, the second time because one of the knock-off injectors was bad.

For info - I just bought a set of injectors from Ronnies to just have and store. They are the OEM for my bike - Made in Brazil, exactly like the knock-offs I bought on eBay.
Also for info. When checking the injector that was bad - There were no codes, and the injector, when tested with a battery, statically clicked and never missed a beat, as fast as I could activate and deactivate it - But it was bad. No leaking into the cylinder, but the activation or burn pattern must be what was wrong with it.

Easy job. Hope it fixes your problem. Troubleshooting some issues can really be a challenge. I feel your pain, believe me. Best of luck sent your way.
Two of my bikes have quick disconnect for cross over. But pain to install first time
 
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Old Aug 16, 2025 | 06:42 PM
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Not sure if you are aware that Bone Doc's comment is actually a link.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2025 | 07:41 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by BFREE
Not sure if you are aware that Bone Doc's comment is actually a link.
Originally Posted by heritagefan
That's what I'm trying to do. Not understanding your comment.
Like BFREE noted, if it is blue and underlined, it is a link. Click it.

You have an excuse for everything. With your attitude, AMF YOYO. It's blue and underlined.... click it.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2025 | 11:16 PM
  #28  
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It is easy to get frustrated when things aren't going well.... First thing to do is to take a deep breath, slow down, and sometimes just walk away for a an hour or a day.

Believe it or not, if someone was able to read your posts and say, "Oh yeah, just replace your XXXXXX and it'll fix everything", they would do so. But it is most often harder to diagnosis an issue over the internet based on 2nd hand reports of symptoms, than a bike in front of us that we put hands on ourselves.

We are all trying to help you. We are on your side and want you to get ride this bike almost as bad you....

You don't need to lash out at those trying to help you, or in short order you will find no one is bothering to read your posts.

We have all been a new Harley wrench at one point in our lives.

Many of the suggestions above were born from personal mistakes that we learned from.

I have been working on my Harleys since 1978 as a non-professional, backyard mechanic, and I know first hand if you allow your frustrations to get the best of you, only bad things can happen. I know because many years ago, I paid dearly to learn my lessons about patience..

Having said all that...

I would suggest that you always do a diagnosis to find the issue. If the issue eludes you, sometimes, it's better to pay a mechanic a couple hours labor to diagnose a problem and fix one part, then it is to spend a bunch of money throwing parts at it.

New parts are always a good thing.... IF you have the money to throw them at a working bike. However, if there is a current issue, new parts that don't fix that issue, can complicate a proper diagnosis. That happens because now you have to consider if you did a proper install of the new part and/or the possibility that the new part being defective. It happens...

If you decide to work on your bike yourself, it is a necessary investment to get at least the Harley Factory Service manual for your year/model. If you can, also the Harley Electrical Diagnostic Manual for your year model. There is a Facebook page, that you can join, and then legally share the manuals you need. I buy my own, so I don't know it off hand, but it has been posted on here numerous times and someone may post it up again in this thread.

Please let my post sink in, take a breath, then lets' start from scratch....

For starters, you can click on Bone Doc's link that you thought was a rude comment, perform that check, and report back what you find...

You may even want to start a new thread, so those that want to help don't have to weed though all the useless comments, and can focus on you giving us a thorough, detailed report on what the issue is, what you have done to try to fix it, and what you have discovered in your attempts to fix it.

To be honest, I've lost track of what is the original issue you had, what you have done, and why you now want to test your TPS.....

I will try to reread this thread tomorrow and see if there is anything specific I can offer for you look at.....

We all hope you are out riding sooner rather than later...
 

Last edited by hattitude; Aug 16, 2025 at 11:19 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2025 | 06:41 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by heritagefan
The "prowrench" charges me an arm and a leg to tell me what it probably is, or could be. For the price that these guys charge, I might as well just cough up another 5k and buy another used bike.

calm down
don't take it as "criticism" Take it as intended, that being helpful suggestions

Look at this way, you've spent hundreds(?) already.
Possible you'll spend $100s more and still not fixed

I understand money being tight (I'm a po-boy myself) I get it,
the point is, you may be spending good money after bad by not paying a bona fide Harley pro to diagnose.

either way, I hope your bike squared away

KTF




 
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Old Aug 17, 2025 | 09:21 AM
  #30  
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You originally reported "a "miss", cutting out, running rough-not sure what to call it".

After throwing some parts at it, you checked for codes and reported a "P1353 Front cylinder No combustion" code.

No combustion in a front cylinder can cause a "miss".... so I would focus my efforts around combustion in the front cylinder.

Combustion takes compression, fuel, and spark.

It's running, so for now we can put compression checks on the back burner.

You started on the spark. You replaced coil, plug wires, and plugs. I would confirm your spark with a spark checker, or by physically checking it. If the spark checks good, but the code doesn't go away and the issue persists, you'll need to confirm the ECM is sending the proper signal to the coil to fire. If you are able to verify the ECM signal is good, and the spark system is functioning properly, then time to focus on fuel delivery to the front cylinder.

Checking fuel delivery is three parts. You need to verify electrical signals to the front fuel injector, fuel is getting to the front fuel injector, and that the front fuel injector is working properly.

That is basically how I would start this diagnosis if I were there with your bike. You just keep going systematically through the systems responsible for your issue until you find the cause. Sometimes quick and easy, sometimes involved... just the nature of the beast.

I didn't have the time to type out all those various diagnostic steps. This is where the Factory Service Manual and Electrical Diagnostic Manual would be priceless... You can also search for how to do those various checks on this forum, the internet in general, or ask in your thread. Get the procedures one at a time when you are ready to do the checks...

Good luck with your diagnosis...
 

Last edited by hattitude; Aug 17, 2025 at 09:38 AM.
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