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Yeah, I know it's a 70 Torx, I have no idea why I typed 70mm...
I do replace the comp bolts each time.
But IIRC, the earlier Factory Manuals say it's OK to clean and re-use the bolt with red locktite.
Are you saying that the heat applied could cause the issue, or the OEM toque spec is what requires the use of a new bolt... ?
On the 5 bike with a nut, the SM say nothing about replacement. All 6 speed say replace the bolt.
Tempering temps are from 255F to 1200F. I'd assume that the end of the crank don't get much more than say 275 and the lower tempering temps have little effect but if you heat the bolt to over say 400F it will start losing tensile strength.
Here is a good place to figure out how much HD is stressing the bolt.. Note that going to 165 FP on that bolt is right at the limit for a 9/16-12 grade 8 and you probably want to replace the fastener if going to that number.
...snip...
I do replace the comp bolts each time.
But IIRC, the earlier Factory Manuals say it's OK to clean and re-use the bolt with red locktite.
...snip...
I thought there was some bolt stretch involved when appling torque, so
"how many" times is it OK to reuse the same bolt ?
I thought there was some bolt stretch involved when appling torque, so
"how many" times is it OK to reuse the same bolt ?
thanks,
T. (think I'd just replace the bolt myself)
With the minor diameter being 0.4663 and the yield strength being 120000 psi for a grade 8, the max tension is 20,493 LBs. Going 170 fp above, the number is 18194lbs . Still below yield but close.. Definitely close to where you want to replace..
I always replaced the comp nut if I removed it, seemed prudent. I'm glad now that I have been doing that all along.
However, both my 2001 and 2003 Harley Softail Factory Service manuals have identical installation instructions for the comp nut. They say to clean and prime threads, add two drops of red loctite. I didn't see anything about needing a new bolt.
I always replaced the comp nut if I removed it, seemed prudent. I'm glad now that I have been doing that all along.
However, both my 2001 and 2003 Harley Softail Factory Service manuals have identical installation instructions for the comp nut. They say to clean and prime threads, add two drops of red loctite. I didn't see anything about needing a new bolt.
So you placed comp nuts on the 5 speeds. The 6's were 2007 up and the 06 Dynas.
I wrote;
On the 5 [speed] bike with a nut, the SM say nothing about replacement. All 6 speed [SM] say replace the bolt.
You have 6 speed early TCs? If that is the case you likely have a CVO with the 6 speed added?
You have 6 speed early TCs? If that is the case you likely have a CVO with the 6 speed added?
Sorry pulled a Rounders..
You have a long way to fall before you reach Rounders' level.
I have no 6 speed early TCs. I've never owned a CVO... Not that there's anything wrong with that..
Both those factory service manuals are for 2001 & 2003 88" Softails with 5-speeds.
The 2003 manual was printed in 10/03, and the 2001 was printed in 9/13.. both show the same installation instructions, listed under "Compensator".
I have a 2009 Factory Softail Service Manual, obviously for 95" Softails with 6-speeds. That manual was printed 9/13... It doesn't even list a "Compensator" section, but rather lists the comp under "Drive Components". It says to use a new bolt, and the "new bolt" is in bold letters in the manual. But, that is a different comp & bolt than the other two.
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 20, 2025 at 05:43 PM.
Well after a week of drilling I finally got it all out , the problem I believe ive never bought a new bolt and some say it should be done everytime I remove it , and from now on I will be replacing .. also I was lazy and although ill continue to use rattle gun removing bolt , no longer will I rattle it tight and then torque up remainder to make sure I have correct torque on it, so yes I continued to remove stator and main seal I managed to get diamond tip hollow drill bit which I attached to Milwaukee magnetic drill press and I actually managed to drill around or over the tip of snapped tungsten piece and though it was an extremely slow slow process to get started and constantly drilling 20 seconds then dipping drill bit in water to try keep cool just a Lil bit at a time no rush just had to be patient.. so eventually wen through tried to re tap or clean thread but it wasn't enough so , moved on to next idea was helicoil so drilled out with 15mm drill bit which in all honesty wen I done that the crank was looking much cleaner inside re tapped it and inserted heli coil deep down to allow for the bolt to go all way in and torqued up to the required setting I think was 170 or 180 foot pounds . And yes bike isn't to bad power wise at 123hp and 121torque full sns 107 big bore and hopefully pro charger to go on it one day, but main thing is this arvo I got her all back together and went for little ride and everything went well its now chain driven and motor sounded sweet so just need little clutch adjustment and chain adjustment and be ready to be ridden again the way I like to , flat out. Cheers boys for the input and I don't wish this upon anyone was not good at all . But with patients and sticking to it , we got it all sorted
Well after a week of drilling I finally got it all out , the problem I believe ive never bought a new bolt and some say it should be done everytime I remove it , and from now on I will be replacing .. also I was lazy and although ill continue to use rattle gun removing bolt , no longer will I rattle it tight and then torque up remainder to make sure I have correct torque on it, so yes I continued to remove stator and main seal I managed to get diamond tip hollow drill bit which I attached to Milwaukee magnetic drill press and I actually managed to drill around or over the tip of snapped tungsten piece and though it was an extremely slow slow process to get started and constantly drilling 20 seconds then dipping drill bit in water to try keep cool just a Lil bit at a time no rush just had to be patient.. so eventually wen through tried to re tap or clean thread but it wasn't enough so , moved on to next idea was helicoil so drilled out with 15mm drill bit which in all honesty wen I done that the crank was looking much cleaner inside re tapped it and inserted heli coil deep down to allow for the bolt to go all way in and torqued up to the required setting I think was 170 or 180 foot pounds . And yes bike isn't to bad power wise at 123hp and 121torque full sns 107 big bore and hopefully pro charger to go on it one day, but main thing is this arvo I got her all back together and went for little ride and everything went well its now chain driven and motor sounded sweet so just need little clutch adjustment and chain adjustment and be ready to be ridden again the way I like to , flat out. Cheers boys for the input and I don't wish this upon anyone was not good at all . But with patients and sticking to it , we got it all sorted
What a horrible experience to have to deal with! I bet that felt good when it finally broke loose and came out.
Well after a week of drilling I finally got it all out , the problem I believe ive never bought a new bolt and some say it should be done everytime I remove it , and from now on I will be replacing .. also I was lazy and although ill continue to use rattle gun removing bolt , no longer will I rattle it tight and then torque up remainder to make sure I have correct torque on it, so yes I continued to remove stator and main seal I managed to get diamond tip hollow drill bit which I attached to Milwaukee magnetic drill press and I actually managed to drill around or over the tip of snapped tungsten piece and though it was an extremely slow slow process to get started and constantly drilling 20 seconds then dipping drill bit in water to try keep cool just a Lil bit at a time no rush just had to be patient.. so eventually wen through tried to re tap or clean thread but it wasn't enough so , moved on to next idea was helicoil so drilled out with 15mm drill bit which in all honesty wen I done that the crank was looking much cleaner inside re tapped it and inserted heli coil deep down to allow for the bolt to go all way in and torqued up to the required setting I think was 170 or 180 foot pounds . And yes bike isn't to bad power wise at 123hp and 121torque full sns 107 big bore and hopefully pro charger to go on it one day, but main thing is this arvo I got her all back together and went for little ride and everything went well its now chain driven and motor sounded sweet so just need little clutch adjustment and chain adjustment and be ready to be ridden again the way I like to , flat out. Cheers boys for the input and I don't wish this upon anyone was not good at all . But with patients and sticking to it , we got it all sorted
You have more knowledge, better tools, and a ton more patience than I do... good job.
PS-
I put a Kenne Bell super charger on my 2004 Corvette Z06. It was an awesome experience. I have often thought about going FI on one of my bikes just for the hell of it...
But pretty sure I'd kill myself in short order.. As Dirty Harry says, "A man's got to know his limitations"
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Not that there's anything wrong with that..
