Hi guys ive got a 2010 softail and after changing to chain drive after snapping to many belts ive gone to ee assemble and snapped the comp bolt inside the crank absolutely gutted ive been at it for few days and no removal tool has worked so im drilling it out has anybody had this issue , what I want to know has anyone used help coul to put new bolt in or re tapped the inside of shaft. Fukn nightmare any past knowledge or help greatly appreciated

 

To be sure your situation sucks... I would be beyond frustrated.

I've never dealt with, or read about, this happening before. I am unable to offer intelligent suggestions on how to remove the bolt. I will be following this thread to read what people suggest.

IMHO, after finally removing the bolt, and the compensator, I would take the small block to an engine machine shop, hopefully one specializing or knowledgeable of Harley engines, and get their opinion on a repair.

I would think it is critical for you to get some professional advice on the repair, that is based on an inspection of the damage done.

You admit to breaking drive belts. That tells us you either have a high HP/TQ engine, and/or drive the bike very, very hard. You'll want that repair to be perfect to avoid other issues in the future.

Having said all that, I admit that I am curious as hell... how did you snap the comp bolt?

I'm not trying to be critical, I am really shocked that it happened, and am wondering how/why.

Would you post the details?

I'm not a professional mechanic. Yet, I've removed comps in '03, '04, '12, & '16 twin cam engines, numerous times. Those bikes ranged from Stage I, to Stage IV, and one high HP/TQ crate engine. I use a little heat to break up the loctite, and a 24", 1/2" drive, breaker bar. I've never felt like I was remotely close to breaking anything during those comp bolt removals.

Maybe I was closer to a comp bolt failure than I thought. I would like to learn from your misfortune.

In any case, good luck with the repair and keep us posted on your progress...

 

Don't know of any removal tool that doesn't drill a hole.. If you slathered it with the red, you might have gotten it out with a left hand drill bit if you were quick but after a day you are going to need something way more stout.. About the only thing I'd try is this..

https://toolup.com/products/ridgid-3...rew-extractor?

 

The picture you posted may not represent what I think I'm looking at but assuming it is your biggest issue right now is getting the hole you have to drill back to centre as it appears what's there now is offset quite a bit, some sort of bushed drill guide perhaps, the extractors Max linked are tough stuff but if you break one of them in there your exasperation level will go up tenfold, some heat would help break the Loctite grip but off the top of my head i can't think of a tool you could hold on that bolt that would transfer enough heat to make a difference, maybe someone will chime in with a more concise method, hope you get it sorted.

 

The guy really needs to heat the shaft and not the bolt. Probably should remove the stator and replace the crank seal after. When using the extractor set, it's best to use a guide and drill the hole all the way through the bolt.

 

Man, that is a tough one. Here is all I got from what I can see. Take the stator assy off and take it to a machine shop. They can EDM that bolt remains out. Now, saying that, I have never taken a stator off on a HD - so I do not know what it entails, but if you can, that is what I might do at this point.

Again, with only seeing the picture it is hard to really tell how bad that is.I have drilled out many bolts slowly, smaller than the actual broken bolt, and carefully work the remaining threads out. It is about the last attempt to recover a broken bolt when fixing it at home. EDM - is the proper way to have it done.
Good luck - that looks like a handful.

Lastly - If you broke it on install, it was either a weakened bolt, defective, or over-torqued. Maybe time to have the torque wrench calibrated or a new one.

 

I never heard/saw an EDM.

I had to look it up and watched a couple videos.... pretty cool stuff!

 

Saved some pretty expensive "mistakes" when I was working over the years. But it also pays to have top-notch machinists readily available when those "mistakes" happened.
Yes, impressive is an understatement to what can be saved with EDM.

 

I think at the very least that engine is coming out of the frame in order to get it in a machine to extract the bolt without destroying the shaft.

If it were mine, I would pull the engine, split the cases and take the flywheel assembly to a competent machine shop to have them remove the broken hardware using EDM.

Consider sending the flywheel assembly to Dark Horse, if they can`t save it, nobody can.

 

EDM is a great way to machine some applications. We had wire EDM and Sinker EDM machines during my time managing the tooling division at Salvagnini America. Most machine shops don't have them, meaning the average shop. Larger better equipped shops have them if it fits their work type. They're best suited to very intricate designs and machining hardened material.

To the OP: I would think any shop that takes that type of repair on will want the crank out of the case.