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Recommendations for EVO Upgrades

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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 03:11 PM
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Default Recommendations for EVO Upgrades

Hello everyone. First off, thank you guys for having me in the forum. I apologize for starting off my first thread with such a lengthy post, but I recently became a Harley owner and of course I’m itching to do some wrenching. This is my first Harley and I’m looking for some advice, recommendations, tips, etc etc. I’m coming from the motocross world, as well as off road and hot rods. I do enjoy wrenching on my own stuff at least until it comes to machining and such. So I do have a decent amount of knowledge on a lot of things but I’ve ever touched anything on a Harley outside of handlebars and a tag mount.

I wanted an evo for its simplicity and somewhat old school sound and feel. I picked up a 1996 Heritage Softail Classic a couple of weeks ago. 26,400 miles. Aside from exhaust and a Mikuni carb, appears to be all stock. The bike runs and rides great, especially for its age. However, of course I want to make it “my own” and just car help myself but to want to do some upgrades. I have noticed a very small leak on the base gasket of the front cylinder so inevitably it’s going to have to be fixed. So, I’m making a list of everything I personally would like to do to it in the process and just wanted to see if you guys have some advice on what I have so far.

I’m planning on a full Cometic gasket set. New cylinder studs and ARP head fasteners. Andrew’s EV27 cam along with new cam bearing and breather gear. New S&S lifters and adjustable pushrods. Complete ignition setup which is one of the parts I’ll need some advice on. Also will be going back with a Thunderheader 2 in 1 exhaust.

I do fully understand that there could be much more that needs attention that I won’t know until I open the “can of worms”.

Would it be smart to go ahead and plan on a top end rebuild since I will be in that far anyway with the base gaskets? If so, is it possible to increase compression SLIGHTLY without needing to cut or machine anything?

I apologize for being all over the place with this post, just not really sure how to ask so much and make it short and sweet. And of course I will have a gazillion questions along the way. I very much appreciate your time and any recommendations and/or advice.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 03:22 PM
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If the front brake still has the lousy stock single piston caliper retrofitting a four piston Wildwood caliper will make a big improvement in stopping power. About $250 from Summit Racing (and elsewhere)


 
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 08xl1200r
If the front brake still has the lousy stock single piston caliper retrofitting a four piston Wildwood caliper will make a big improvement in stopping power. About $250 from Summit Racing (and elsewhere)

I appreciate it. And yes, the front brake is definitely in need of an upgrade. It is not very confidence inspiring to say the least.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 09:13 PM
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I ran my '89 EVO at a Stage I only, and it got 40K miles with just gas, oil, and filters.. I sold it, and still wish I had it. It was a great bike!!!

However on a 2000 Twin Cam, I went with a Daytona Twin Tec ICM. I wasn't a great records keeper back then, and those days seem a little fuzzy...

But I remember really liking their product, and remember it being easy to use....

https://daytona-twintec.com/shop/

Good luck with your project...
 

Last edited by hattitude; Mar 16, 2026 at 09:37 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by hattitude
I ran my '89 EVO at a Stage I only, and it got 40K miles with just gas, oil, and filters.. I sold it, and still wish I had it. It was a great bike!!!

However on a 2000 Twin Cam, I went with a Daytons Twin Tec ICM. I wasn't a great records keeper back then, and those days seem a little fuzzy...

But I remember really liking their product, and remember it being easy to use....

https://daytona-twintec.com/shop/

Good luck with your project...
I appreciate it. I’m looking forward to the work and the learning experience throughout the process. I know I’m new to the Harley world. But I have at least built a few v8’s along with tons of motocross bikes and luckily I was born with a lot of patience and also very much enjoy going by the gospel of a service manual. So hopefully I can get through this. I just am not well versed on the “do’s and don’ts” in regards to having machine work done or just keeping it simple. Also, I will admit, the ignition system options and tuning is going to be a big learning process as well. I just want a little more throttle response with a good cam and a reliable EVO and I’ll be completely happy with it. 45-55mph is where I want to stay and just ride the back roads to ease the brain every now and then.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 09:45 PM
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Harleys aren't really hard ot work on, but there are some things you need to know.

I strongly suggest you get an HD Factory Service Manual, 399482-99 or #99482-99A. The "A" manual could be an updated version, so maybe the better of the two... They also added a letter suffix when they switched vendors. I don't know whatthe case is with te "A" on this service manual.

Don't waste your time or money on the aftermarket manuals. I tried one way back when I was going to work on my then new '78 FXS... I ended up throwing it in the trash and getting the factory manual.

Here's an older version;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17796472323...Bk9SR9690JqfZw


Here's an "A" version, but it's well worn:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26758887271...Bk9SR_zx9JqfZw
 

Last edited by hattitude; Mar 16, 2026 at 09:48 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hattitude
Harleys aren't really hard ot work on, but there are some things you need to know.

I strongly suggest you get an HD Factory Service Manual, 399482-99 or #99482-99A. The "A" manual could be an updated version, so maybe the better of the two... They also added a letter suffix when they switched vendors. I don't know whatthe case is with te "A" on this service manual.

Don't waste your time or money on the aftermarket manuals. I tried one way back when I was going to work on my then new '78 FXS... I ended up throwing it in the trash and getting the factory manual.

Here's an older version;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17796472323...Bk9SR9690JqfZw


Here's an "A" version, but it's well worn:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26758887271...Bk9SR_zx9JqfZw
I actually purchased an “A” version from eBay about a week ago. It’s a “96A”
 
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 04:53 AM
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"26K miles runs and rides great"

We are coming into riding season, perhaps ride it and research and plan for next winter ?

Weeping base gasket is common on Evo`s ( why it took HD 15 yrs to add an o-ring is baffling )

Not sure you "need" new cylinder studs

I assume a thinner head gasket would allow a small increase in compression

Nothing "wrong" with stock pushrods

I agree that a Wilwood caliper is your first upgrade. Big difference, low money, easy install

JMO
 
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by eighteight
"26K miles runs and rides great"

We are coming into riding season, perhaps ride it and research and plan for next winter ?

Weeping base gasket is common on Evo`s ( why it took HD 15 yrs to add an o-ring is baffling )

Not sure you "need" new cylinder studs

I assume a thinner head gasket would allow a small increase in compression

Nothing "wrong" with stock pushrods

I agree that a Wilwood caliper is your first upgrade. Big difference, low money, easy install

JMO
I appreciate it. I am definitely planning on making it through this season first. Just getting some research going for next winter.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 05:56 AM
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I think your plan is solid other than expecting to need studs. You have a good chance that you won’t need them. Here’s what I’d do however different..

I’d not use S&S lifters.. I’d use Hylift Johnson’s for 1/3 the money. I would not trust S&S lifters in either my 113 or 127 EVO’s. I’ve seen too many with problems.
I would buy off market place later style 4 piston OEM Harley brake calipers (I believe those are bembo) and I’d buy off eBay the bracket to adapt them to your forks.

The money saved from these things will help offset sending your heads to a place like http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/forumdisplay.php?f=3

For about $550 you can have fresh heads that are ported and have them milled 40 thou. That gives with cam, pipe, carb and ignition about, reliable durable 85 hp.

Best bang for the buck in my opinion. You should yield somewhere in the neighborhood of 9.5:1 - 9.8:1 mechanical compression. If you just do cam, carb, pipe without doing the heads your like 75.. maybe 78 hp. That’s a big jump for very little money in my opinion and you really did nothing to hurt durability or even gas mileage actually.

If you like the pipe you mentioned for aesthetics… ok. But if you are just after power, I’d use a stock header and buy from eBay large volume Cycle Shack mufflers. They will make the same power as the pipe you mentioned for again 1/3 the money.
 

Last edited by Rains2much; Mar 17, 2026 at 06:02 AM.
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