When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I don't want to cut wires. I can use the stock harness for r/l hand controls and stock clutch/brake/throttle cables. Putting on Wild1 503's. My question is do I have to remove tank. I think I do, says so in manual?
Also, where in the hell is the connector for the gas gauge. It says look at figure 117 or something on tank removal but that connector lookd like every other connector on the darn bike. I cant get the tank far enough back to take off connector for gas gauge and cannot remove tank till I get gauge disconnected. Do I just pull gauge outta tank and cut the frickin wires? The reason tank comes off I think is because the harness connectors for handlebars are I think in the underside tunnel of tank just far enough back so you absolutely have to remove tank.
I can't say for sure on an '07, but my '05 Fatboy did not required complete tank removal. I was able to slide it backward far enough to reach the connectors.
ditto that, I just slid my tank back far enough to disconnet the wires on my 07 standard. I'd say the fatboy is the same. Be carefull not to scracth the top of the front rocker box with the clamp used on the fuel tank crossover line (like I did) Good luck
My advice... DON'T TOUCH IT !!! Take it to a dealer and get them to do it... we tried and it was a NIGHTMARE! Yes you will need to take the tank off... but you need special electrical tools to pull the pins outta the plug and if you haven't done or seen it done before you will do more harm than good. My advice... get the dealer to handle this one !
DeanO
ORIGINAL: GrampsWyatt
I don't want to cut wires. I can use the stock harness for r/l hand controls and stock clutch/brake/throttle cables. Putting on Wild1 503's. My question is do I have to remove tank. I think I do, says so in manual?
Also, where in the hell is the connector for the gas gauge. It says look at figure 117 or something on tank removal but that connector lookd like every other connector on the darn bike. I cant get the tank far enough back to take off connector for gas gauge and cannot remove tank till I get gauge disconnected. Do I just pull gauge outta tank and cut the frickin wires? The reason tank comes off I think is because the harness connectors for handlebars are I think in the underside tunnel of tank just far enough back so you absolutely have to remove tank.
I just did this a few weeks ago, not really a hard job. The tnak is held on by the rear screw and the front bolt and acorn nut. The crossover deal I worked was using a 4 foot piece of garden hose over the fuel line into a gas container and a small piece of tubing with a bolt in it to block the nipple side. Unhook the small plug on the left side and pop the fuel line off the side of the tank and the tank come right off. To remove the pins from the connectors for the switches, I useda large diameter sewing needle......just push the needle into the holes beside each pin, and pull the pin out from the rear. I made a crude drawing of the wiring diagram,to determinewire placement on reassembly.
to wire the bars I used a vacuum cleaner to suck a shoestring through the bars and attached my wiring harness to one end and gently pulled it through. if you run into a snag where the harness makes a turn through the riser, just gently pull the ends of the shoestring backand forth until it finds it's way. The whole job took 4 or 5 hours and a little sweat. Don't make it any harder than it is, and take your time.
I did mine myself with the Wild One 550 Chubby beach bars. As dmac said it's a freakin' nightmare. But then again I have zero experience with mechanics, but I simply don't have a dealer on this island. Took me like 9 hours, but finally did it.
All the above posts have great info, just take your time and get the right tools, especially for the wiring disassembly. But if you have a little extra cash and a dealer nearby I'd go that route.
An easy way is to buy the switch kit 70239-07.. It makes it real easy and saves alot of time The shield is very easy to work with it took me 10 min to wire the bars and the kit comes with the new ends, with the pins installed.. Just use theoriginals as a reference.. It's worth the price of the switch Kit if time is valuable and I just slid the tank back to reach the connectors.. 2 hours and Done.. I sold the original switch kit for 50.00 when done...
Thanks so far for ALL the ideas. Please keep them coming. I'm gonna do it Monday see what happens.
Trotter, good idea except won't work on FLSTF (fatboy). Says it fitsmost anythingexcept 07 and later FLSTF. and touring w/cruise and radio controls. Can't see why it won't fit fatty, bars go downin sizeat hand controls and they are Chubby's 503's. I mean someone puts 503's on another different softail and it would work. Must be something with frame/wireharness under tank.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.