I need advice on fluid changes please
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: SW Ohio
I need advice on fluid changes please
Gearing up for my 1000 mile fluid changes .Already have oil, etc. I do have the manual, but,perhaps pointers on what amounts of fluids in real life apps you guys have seen. I am not new to this kind of thing, just new to my Heritage. Thanks in advance for any input . 3 qtsoil 1 qt in trans, i qt primary ... ??? My bike is a 2008 .
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Broomfield, Colorado
RE: I need advice on fluid changes please
I have a 2007 Heritage, it takes 3 qts. in crankcase (oil tank), 1 in the chain case and 1 in the tranny...I don't think that changed from 2007 to 2008. But by all means look in your manual.
Paul in Colorado
Paul in Colorado
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: SW Ohio
RE: I need advice on fluid changes please
Sure will for sure. was going to do this today, but the temp went up to 74 so i rode and rode and rode, then rode more today !!! these days are numbered here in ohio !!!! even forgot to eat lunch !! i figure i can eat tomorrow , LOl . My bike is runing so good now that is is getting broke in !!!
Love the heritage so far !
Love the heritage so far !
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From: Midland, TX
RE: I need advice on fluid changes please
After draining the oil tank, I'd only add a couple of quarts, run the bike for a bit then check the oil and add to the full hot line. That way, you won't over fill the oil tank. The transmission and primary both take a quart.
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From: Rochester, NY
RE: I need advice on fluid changes please
Ditto on what oldgeezer said, and don't forget to run the engine for 4 or 5 minutes BEFORE you drain the tank.
That will ensure that there is as little oil as possible in the crankase itself. Remember your dealing with a dry sump oiling system and you want it all in the tank not the engine.
If you don't there is a fair chance that you could wind up withtoo much oil in there and a mess when it starts puking the excess out the dipstick plug.
It shouldn't physically hurt the bike, if your not actually riding it at the time, but it can sure make an unholymess of things.
That will ensure that there is as little oil as possible in the crankase itself. Remember your dealing with a dry sump oiling system and you want it all in the tank not the engine.
If you don't there is a fair chance that you could wind up withtoo much oil in there and a mess when it starts puking the excess out the dipstick plug.
It shouldn't physically hurt the bike, if your not actually riding it at the time, but it can sure make an unholymess of things.
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From: SW Ohio
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Rochester, NY
RE: I need advice on fluid changes please
Why would it be different? They are both dry sump engines with the reservoir tanks above the crankcase.
So as long as the tank is above the crankcase you stillneed to be mindful of the fact that oil can and often will over time leak back “downstream” into the crankcase.
How long it takes is just a matter of how good, or not a check valve system seals.
So as long as the tank is above the crankcase you stillneed to be mindful of the fact that oil can and often will over time leak back “downstream” into the crankcase.
How long it takes is just a matter of how good, or not a check valve system seals.
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RE: I need advice on fluid changes please
When I did mine, I wanted to be sure I got all the old factory dino oil out. It was a little bit of a pain but I figured it was worth it for the switchover.
Basically what I did was drained the tank like normal. I poured fresh oil into the tank, about a quart or so I could see the level clearly. I held my hand over the filler and started the bike. Since it is a positive feed, and the return was the top line I felt the engine was being lubricated while pushing the old oil out. I Using the flashlight I could see the old dirty oil being returned to the tank. I Ran the bike for a few seconds and shut it down. Took a flashlight and examined what was in the tank. Dirty oil was mixing with the new oil. After I started to see fresh oil come out, I drained it all again, changed the filterand refilled with all fresh oil. Took about 5 rounds of starting, examining the oil and shutting down the bike.
I think it cost an extra quart of oil.I was a little nervous but this made sense and it but this worked out well. Maybe unnecessary but seemed to get all the old stuff out. There are othersolutions out there too.
Take care,
Basically what I did was drained the tank like normal. I poured fresh oil into the tank, about a quart or so I could see the level clearly. I held my hand over the filler and started the bike. Since it is a positive feed, and the return was the top line I felt the engine was being lubricated while pushing the old oil out. I Using the flashlight I could see the old dirty oil being returned to the tank. I Ran the bike for a few seconds and shut it down. Took a flashlight and examined what was in the tank. Dirty oil was mixing with the new oil. After I started to see fresh oil come out, I drained it all again, changed the filterand refilled with all fresh oil. Took about 5 rounds of starting, examining the oil and shutting down the bike.
I think it cost an extra quart of oil.I was a little nervous but this made sense and it but this worked out well. Maybe unnecessary but seemed to get all the old stuff out. There are othersolutions out there too.
Take care,
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,184
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From: Oregon
RE: I need advice on fluid changes please
some say run the bike till the oil is warm before draining too...20mins of riding (not idle)
to get all the particals in the oil and not settled
on my last two changes I did this
I switched from syn3 to amsoil
to get all the particals in the oil and not settled
on my last two changes I did this
I switched from syn3 to amsoil