shimmy
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Joined: Sep 2007
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shimmy
got an '07 train and am happy with it. the only minor annoyances are of course the heat (which i expect will be improved when i get it back from the 1k service this week), and i have a slight shimmy when i let off the throttle from about 55 down to 45mph. i noticed that it slung the tire weight off the rear wheel early on. i've got 1300 miles on it and the weight came off within the first couple hundred miles. has anyone else experiened this and am i on track thinking that a rebalance of the rear wheel will solve or is this a larger problem? maybe a loose spoke on the front? also, when i brake hard with the front i get a clunk from the neck. is this normal?
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2005
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RE: shimmy
Tha shimmy is probbably your wheel outa balance like you thought. As for the clunk when you brake, thats the stem bolt on your tripple clamp. I have the same bike, n 07 nighttrain, and I also love mine. I had a dyna w/g, and the front end did the same thing. My night train also has a w/g front end, and also makes that same clunk when I brake with the front brake. I only have 700 mi on mine sofar, so I will have torqued down @ 1000 mile service.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 786
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From: Sheridan, AR
RE: shimmy
The clunk in your neck and the shimmy are probably due to the same problem, (loose head bearing adjustment) It can be adjusted at home, but if you are not familiar with fall away adjustment procedures then it is best left to a professional. This is a hazardous condition, and should be addressed immediately, it also will cause excessive premature wear of the head bearings, resulting in early replacement and increased repair expense. I have had the same problem in the past.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,881
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From: North Georgia
RE: shimmy
I know this is going to sound weird, but have your primary chain checked for beingloose.
In your case, you haven't had the 1k service yet, but this is what fixed my shimmy at slightly more than 1k miles.
My vibration was ONLY during decel. Thereis a lot of torque conversion going and when it is not being applied as "power" I think it makes sense that it can result in vibration.
In your case, you haven't had the 1k service yet, but this is what fixed my shimmy at slightly more than 1k miles.
My vibration was ONLY during decel. Thereis a lot of torque conversion going and when it is not being applied as "power" I think it makes sense that it can result in vibration.
ORIGINAL: jetfxr
If the wobble is the same during accleration and deceleration this is not the fix but if it is worse during deceleration it is the result of a too loose primary chain.
The adjustment should have been done during the 1K service but probably wasn't. The too loose primary chain will set up a vibration that is transferred to the frame and the bars and they will resonate at their harmonic frequency.
Because of the adjusting shoe for the primary chain the effect of the looseness is worse when slowing down, the chain just flops around with nothing to damp it resulting in the vibration.
Remove the inspection cover with a T27 torx. Count the number of teeth/notches above the adjuster in the center slot. Loosen thelock nut and move the adjuster up one tooth/notch (a little bit of adjustment goes a long way). Tighten the lock nut, replace the cover and test ride. It should have gotten better. If not, it is not the primary chain and look elsewhere for the cause.
If the wobble is the same during accleration and deceleration this is not the fix but if it is worse during deceleration it is the result of a too loose primary chain.
The adjustment should have been done during the 1K service but probably wasn't. The too loose primary chain will set up a vibration that is transferred to the frame and the bars and they will resonate at their harmonic frequency.
Because of the adjusting shoe for the primary chain the effect of the looseness is worse when slowing down, the chain just flops around with nothing to damp it resulting in the vibration.
Remove the inspection cover with a T27 torx. Count the number of teeth/notches above the adjuster in the center slot. Loosen thelock nut and move the adjuster up one tooth/notch (a little bit of adjustment goes a long way). Tighten the lock nut, replace the cover and test ride. It should have gotten better. If not, it is not the primary chain and look elsewhere for the cause.
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