washing new deluxe
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
From: Northern, NJ
Your thinking too much about it...like said before, it's made to get wet!!
I spray everything down...I use an air compressor to blow out the crevices and hard to reach areas...then take it for a small ride and heat it up to rid any moisture hiding amongst the engine...works for me!!
I spray everything down...I use an air compressor to blow out the crevices and hard to reach areas...then take it for a small ride and heat it up to rid any moisture hiding amongst the engine...works for me!!
Intermediate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Cheshire UK
There are some good guides on the detailing section.
Best practise for washing is firstly not to use a pressure washer for direct cleaning. The only time I would (and do in fact use one ) is when I use my foaming lance filled with a Megs Gold/water mix, I use this at distance (goes on at low pressure) and leave on for about 10 mins to soak.
Do not wash it when the engines hot/warm.
Use the two bucket method:
Fill one bucket with a good shampoo such as Megs Gold
Fill one bucket with luke warm clean water and if possible fit a grit guard in this bucket.
Try not to use a sponge, but use a good lambs wool washing mit.
Into the suds and wash with the mit, then into the clean bucket and shake off any grit and rinse before putting into the suds again.
Use of a brush is in similar fashion for finer detailing, rinsing in same manner.
Dry with leaf blower or proper bike dryer.
Use microfibre towels to absorb any remaining water by damping on rather than wiping.
Wash any microfibre towels after use in liquid none bio detergent, do not use them after dropping on the floor put straight into wash bag. I keep a good stock of micro fibre towels and detailing pad applicators. You can never have too many, especially if you have car(s) to do as well.
Chemical Guys "Wheel Guard" all metallic surfaces. Re-seal all paintwork every 1-5 washes at your choice with a wax or sealer of your choice.
Take the patience to this every time you wash and you will avoid those swirls that appear in paintwork which show up badly under halogen lighting.
More important is that the longevity of that new looking bike will be maintained.
Best practise for washing is firstly not to use a pressure washer for direct cleaning. The only time I would (and do in fact use one ) is when I use my foaming lance filled with a Megs Gold/water mix, I use this at distance (goes on at low pressure) and leave on for about 10 mins to soak.
Do not wash it when the engines hot/warm.
Use the two bucket method:
Fill one bucket with a good shampoo such as Megs Gold
Fill one bucket with luke warm clean water and if possible fit a grit guard in this bucket.
Try not to use a sponge, but use a good lambs wool washing mit.
Into the suds and wash with the mit, then into the clean bucket and shake off any grit and rinse before putting into the suds again.
Use of a brush is in similar fashion for finer detailing, rinsing in same manner.
Dry with leaf blower or proper bike dryer.
Use microfibre towels to absorb any remaining water by damping on rather than wiping.
Wash any microfibre towels after use in liquid none bio detergent, do not use them after dropping on the floor put straight into wash bag. I keep a good stock of micro fibre towels and detailing pad applicators. You can never have too many, especially if you have car(s) to do as well.
Chemical Guys "Wheel Guard" all metallic surfaces. Re-seal all paintwork every 1-5 washes at your choice with a wax or sealer of your choice.
Take the patience to this every time you wash and you will avoid those swirls that appear in paintwork which show up badly under halogen lighting.
More important is that the longevity of that new looking bike will be maintained.
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boneman171
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Mar 11, 2009 04:00 PM
