The 44 mm should work fine on a 96. The force winder kills cv carbs. I'm fixing to do a 96 build on my bike and the numbers on the dyno should be around 120 hp and 120 tq. As far as the cam I agree with Superahcmed. What compression are you running? Make sure it will work well with your cam choice. You may also want to do some gearing in the primary, it will help too. Can also check with Bobby Wood @ www.woodcarbs.com. He can make that carb work excellent.

 

By the way, cycle shack produces good horsepower with their exhaust. The screamin Eagle intake should do fine as well.

 

10.25 for compression. The dyno operator also suggested changing the gearing in the primary. I have my Road King for road trips, so I think that it would be a a good change to the bike. I still think that a different air cleaner is a must. 7 hp for a couple hundred dollars is money well spent.

 

The air cleaner is a must. Bobby has one that flows around 300cfm I think. It may be more.

 

This is the part #'s for the primary... 37846-99A 37 tooth clutch basket $320.00 from Harley and 40269-85A 24 tooth compensator gear.

 

Changing the primary gearing from 3:15 to 3:37 will definetly help make the bike accelerate quicker, but it wont add "hp" to the bike. And when bikes are dyno'd their gearing must factored into the run.


To the other gentleman: Sorry but I have to STRONGLY DISAGREE on the CV 44 carb being a good matchup for a 96" engine. Any dyno will show that carb will severely limit mid to upper range hp #'s on an engine that size. He would be leaving 5-10hp on the table by sticking with that carb.

The CV 44 carb was not designed for performance. All CV carbs by nature are sluggish on the throttle response unlike a good slide carb like the Mikuni's, and again a 44mm opening just wont be able to correctly feed the air volume needed for the build in question.

 

I'm not going to say the 44 carb is the best choice but with some work on the carb it will do good. I'm going to run the 51 mm carb (cv) with mods to it. I don't worry about horsepower, take torque over HP anyday on a Harley.

 

Ummmm, torque is nothing more than twisiting force. I can modify and gear a battery operated drill to put out more "torque" than a Harley engine if needed. Horsepower is still what matters. Horsepower ='s torque x rpm. So any Harley motor that puts down X amount of HP at any given rpm, is going to be faster than another harley motor that puts down less hp at the same given rpm.

Want torque or more of it? Then regear your primary or tranny to give you more "torque" if thats whats really needed. But give up too many rpm's to get more torque can mean you lose speed in the process.

 

Well, maybe so. But horsepower comes in with higher RPM's. With the gearing I stated earlier he will still have plenty of top end speed, maybe more than he has now since it will pull through the wind. Torque is whats going to get him their quick. Now if I was riding a crotch rocket I'd probably want more horsepower since it turns so many RPM's.

 

No, horsepower comes at ALL rpm's. If you have more hp at say 2500(or ANY rpm number) with your engine vs. another engine with less hp ACROSS the entire same practical(and same range for this example)shift range, then naturally that engine will also being putting down more torque(twisting force) at the same given rpm range as well. Again, the HP range # is the important and telling factor on how well a bike will pull at any rpm range.

Again "torque" is not what will get him there. Torque is nothing more than a measurement of twisting force. Your hp #'s across the entire rpm band is a more telling sign of how fast your bike can potentially be.