So, like many it's always the 'simplest' things that drive you nuts. I had switched out my tail light and turn sigs in the rear to all LED.(two years ago) I put it the plug and play in line load equalizer and all works well.

After that every few months I would notice one of my front signals would blow out. Usually the running light part, Turn signal would still work. I wondered since the rear was LED maybe still too much draw on the bulbs up front burning them out. Decided to get LED 1157 style replacement bulbs for front earlier this year ,all worked well.

NOW the fun part. I see the other day one bulb up front out. (Running light part- Signal works fine) Pull off the covers fiddle with bulb, comes back on. I find out it's that bulb. Just to make sure I switch sides with it, still that bulb not the housing. Something inside not working or loose.
I order two similar type replacements from local shop. See pic below, Old bad bulb is on left. Ordered new style on right because it has that collar to grab when you put it in and you have to twist it into the housing to lock it in. I think the problem with old one is the plastic housing cracked when I locked it in the first time breaking some connection inside.

Put NEW bulbs in, switch on ignition and they go on- then blow 15 amp instrument fuse under seat. After fooling around (and using up spare fuses) I throw in regular 1157 bulbs all is then well.

So that's where I'm stuck, why new bulbs blow fuses and old ones and regular incandescent bulbs don't. Also other difference between old and new bulbs is old has 20 LEDS , new bulb has 11. Is there another load EQ needed for the front? I thought the one I put into the harness was the only place to add one, covering front and rear.

Thanks

Rob



2005 nightrain
Carbed.
Stage I
Roland Sands Design VENTURI AIR CLEANER
Arlen Ness forward control extension kit.
V&H Straight shots
Radiant Side mount license plate light with LED cats-eye (discontinued)
Kuryakyn LED side rear marker/ turn lights
HD Diamond Back solo seat

 

The new LED bulbs may be a greater wattage than the original bulbs. In electrical terms, watts equals amps times voltage. The voltage of the bike is nominally 12 volts, so if the wattage of the lamp is too high, then the the amps flowing may overcome the fuse. Another possibility is that there are too many electrical items on the 15 amp fuse circuit. A third possibility is one of the power wires or connections is shorting out. A short results in instant high amps, thus blowing a fuse. Since you had an immediate problem with the new LED, I think it is just too much bulb and is overloading the circuit. These LED's claim to take not much current, but some do, and some are simply defective.

 

Thanks for the imput. I'll just have to look into it more tomorrow after I get a bunch of spare fuses. I don't think it's a short since it works fine with regular bulbs and the old LEDs types that I had (except for one of the bulb not working all the time) Sounds like new bulbs making the problem. Just wish I could find out what kind of draw they have.

Rob

 

. . . "But I've never seen ANYTHING to make me believe there's one all powerful Force controlling EVERYTHING" !! There's no mystical energy field controling MY destiny !!"

 

rob,

had a rapid flash problem with mine. what is the plug and play load equalizer you used. i ended up switching back to regular 1157's cause i couldn't find a load equalizer. i like the leds but didn't like the rapid flash. thanks

 

Used a SMART EQUALIZER that I got from J&P cycles.

As far as I can tell this plugs into the entire system and is supposed to do front and rear.

Rob

 

thanks i was using the hd tssm. not sure if this is the same or not, but it still did rapid flash...