Which oil lines??
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 101
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From: Jaffrey, NH
Which oil lines??
I know I keep posting about these dam oil lines but now that I have to replace the last one that split, I am looking for help. Should I just use what Harley recommends or is there a brand that is better/more reliable? Any advice is greatly appreciated. I have these crappy hoses with the fake stainless braiding on it. The braided lines might look better but now that I am replacing them I want quality not appearance. Thanks guys/girls!
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 101
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From: Jaffrey, NH
Here's my existing setup.
If you look to the middle of the oil tank, you can see the split line. I have sinced replaced that one and then the line from the cooler to the block split when I started the bike up. So now I am pissed and have decided to just replace them with standard lines or stainless. What are A N fittings? Don't mind how dirty the bike is, It has been stored at my in laws until I could replace these lines.
If you look to the middle of the oil tank, you can see the split line. I have sinced replaced that one and then the line from the cooler to the block split when I started the bike up. So now I am pissed and have decided to just replace them with standard lines or stainless. What are A N fittings? Don't mind how dirty the bike is, It has been stored at my in laws until I could replace these lines.
Last edited by 84FXST; Dec 9, 2008 at 07:09 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 101
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From: Jaffrey, NH
Are they the best quality? I am ok (sort of) with spending the money, but I want to make sure this isn't going to happen in the middle of a ride. I was lucky this time that after a 250 mile ride I left the bike at the inlaws for the after party. Went to pick up the next day and the line split and dumped 3 quarts of oil as soon as I started it. How do I know which lines to buy? Meaning which stainless, anyone's or is their a good manufacturer. How do I secure them? This sucks.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 313
Likes: 1
From: St.Louis, Mo area
AN fittings are aviation grade hardware. They are machined from a much higher quality metal and to more exacting standards. Couple these fittings with braided stainless line and you have a set-up that will withstand 1,000 to 3,000 psi with no problem. AN stands for Army/Navy, the two branches agreed to a common standard for aircraft hardware prior to World War 2. They are a flared fitting, flared at 37 degrees. Industry does use a 37 degree fitting, called JIC (Just In Case??) but the threads are course and NOT interchangeable with AN fittings. Go with the AN, braided lines, clean floor underneath.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 101
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From: Jaffrey, NH
I hate being a rookie, but, how do they attach to the existing nipples? By nipples I mean the oil cooler stubs the oil tank stub and to the block?
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 313
Likes: 1
From: St.Louis, Mo area
We're all rookies at some point. I just know this sh*t because I work in aviation. You'll have to change the stubs in the tank and block. Take the fittings out and haul on down to your local bike or car hi-performance shop. Tell'em what your doing and go from there. I wish I could give you exact part numbers, but I don't have a parts catalog and sure as sheet, I'd give ya some bad info, then I'd look like the A-Hole for steerin ya wrong. And I do that well enough on my own, thank you! When you take the nipples out of the oil tank and block, pay attention to if the have and "O"ring or not. If there is an "O" ring, it's an MS fitting. DO NOT REUSE THE "O" RING. Get a new one. They're like a buck or less. Should be free with the fitting, but.... If there is no "O" ring, it's one of two types, UNF or NPT.(UNF-United States Fine Thread, NPT National Pipe Thread, more useless information) Use teflon tape on UNF or NPT. "O" ring on MS fittings, and nothing on AN. Hope this helps ya.
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Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
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From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
A-N is a designation for army/navy and use for aircraft. You already have some on your oil fittings. All I could suggest is to do it from engine to tank with braided stainless hoses made up to length with the correct fittings for the hoses. This you can do yourself. I would route the two upper ones in front of the pipe if possible, so a couple of elbows would be good for setting up correct angles at the engine. While this is aircraft grade stuff, many racers use it as well and many suppliers can make up a set for you once you supply what sizes you need. If you get stuck determining what you need I can send you both fittings sizes and hose types charts to help with the decision. Here's how they are assembled.http://www.stockcarproducts.com/aqp1a.htm
Just noticed Budmiesters post and that works as well.
Ron
Just noticed Budmiesters post and that works as well.
Ron
Last edited by rbabos; Dec 9, 2008 at 09:33 PM. Reason: updated