When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you pull the clutch inspection cover (the round cover) you won't need to drain the quart of oil that is in the primary chaincase. However, you aren't going to see much. See how loose the chain is. If it is too loose there might be a problem with your chain tensioner. If it's an EVO you won't have an auto tensioner. Looks like you have an chain tensioner door (small plate held on by 4 screws on the chaincase cover to the left towards the front of the bike). You can also look in there, feel the chain for tautness without losing oil.If it is loose, you can adjust it through this window. If you pull the whole primary chaincase cover, you'll have to drain the primary. Good luck - nice looking bike. I have no idea the noise might be, but that's a good place to start if it sounds like it is coming from the primary area. Could be the compensating sprocket loosened up? Sometimes you can sort of isolate where a noise is coming from by using a stethascope or putting a screwdriver against your ear ( non pointy end) and placing the other end against various places on the motor as it is running. If I were you, I would definitely determine what is making noise before running for more than evaluation.
hey savage i took a look in side the chain tesioner and felt the chain it had some play in it.i tried to adjust it but i dont know if im doin right.But i do know that the block with the adjuster nut that bites into the teeth,when i move it around,it makes that sound ,so i tried to pry up the block higher and tightened it back up....is that right....... thanks again bro its nice people like you that i need in my life to help me out
Dan1
Yes, you loosen the center bolt nut and move the shoe assembly up to take out slack. You should have 5/8" to 7/8" deflection up or down when cold, 3/8" TO 5/8" if hot. Don't over tighten the chain so there is no deflection.
Dan1
Yes, you loosen the center bolt nut and move the shoe assembly up to take out slack. You should have 5/8" to 7/8" deflection up or down when cold, 3/8" TO 5/8" if hot. Don't over tighten the chain so there is no deflection.
Dan1
Yes, you loosen the center bolt nut and move the shoe assembly up to take out slack. You should have 5/8" to 7/8" deflection up or down when cold, 3/8" TO 5/8" if hot. Don't over tighten the chain so there is no deflection.
hey savage thanks for the info.i have another question for you.when im in first gear and i run up the rpm's ,switching into second just doesnt want to happen.i have to do it twice.it seems as if i wined out first it dont want to go.but if i take it real easy in first it will switch with no problem...any ideas....also neutral is very hard to find.you have to hit that shifter up and down ever so slightly to finally get it ..is this inside the trans and is it something i could do.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.