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adjusting the shocks

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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 09:02 AM
  #11  
J_DORSETT's Avatar
J_DORSETT
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From: League City, Texas
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Anybody have any idea how much i should adjust my shocks. i am wanting to tighten them up because the bike bottoms out over bumps and it does not take a big one with a passenger on the back. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 10:09 AM
  #12  
tmitchellof PG's Avatar
tmitchellof PG
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From: Punta Gorda,FL
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Originally Posted by J_DORSETT
Anybody have any idea how much i should adjust my shocks. i am wanting to tighten them up because the bike bottoms out over bumps and it does not take a big one with a passenger on the back. Thanks.
On most of the other bikes I have had ( non Harleys) I would always adjust the shocks to their firmest setting. This seemed, at least to me, to give the bike quicker,better handling.
On my lowered SE Fat Boy, the firmest setting, while riding solo, is too harsh for me.

My 2005 SE Fat Boy comes lowered, approximately 1", the same as a basic Deluxe. The first time I tried to adjust the shocks I couldn't break the retainer nuts loose, apparently HD loctites them in place. This makes no sense since you are suppose to adjust the shocks to the amount of weight the bike is going to carry, which could change daily. My local dealer broke the nut loose, using heat. They didn't charge me anything, even though I didn't buy the bike there.

I adjust mine from soft, when I ride (I weigh 185 lbs.) to 2 full turns toward the firm setting when the wife rides with me.
It takes me less then 5 minutes to adjust the shocks while the bike is on the jiffy stand. I have a lift, but it is not necessary. (My bike has an 1" less clearance then a stock bike and I still have no problem.
When I am done adjusting, I barely snug the retainer nut. It has never come loose, between adjustments.

If you are constantly bottoming out, you should set the shocks fully to the firm setting( a bit over 4 full turns). After riding like that for a while you can adjust the shocks back toward the soft setting a little at a time until you hit a happy medium.

When I turn the shock bodies all the way either direction, I back them off just a hair so they are not wedged in place. This will make it a lot easier to adjust next time.

You should start off by loosening and backing off the retention nut on each shock. Then turn each shock body the same direction as far as they will go. Then paint a forward/aft stripe on the bottom of the body of each shock. When you start adjusting, this will let you count how many turns you move the shock and you will know they are both set the same amount.
Tom
 

Last edited by tmitchellof PG; Jan 16, 2009 at 10:11 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 11:37 PM
  #13  
FXSTD.AU's Avatar
FXSTD.AU
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 212
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From: Melbourne, Australia
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Originally Posted by schumacher
picked up a manual, man that looks like a pain in the azz. Is it as hard as it looks?
It's a karnt of a task without a lift, plus you need the correct tool, and if your threads where covered in locktight like mine were...

I got the stealer to do it, 10 mins work if that - prolly very close to hte best thing i did though. Major handling improvement, especially at low speed. I'm weighing in at about 240lbs (6'2") and i've now got only about 1.75 of the 4 threads showing.
 
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