Softail Punch from 88 to 95
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Softail Punch from 88 to 95
Good morning. Need your imput? Talking with the HD Dealership about taking my 2006 Softail Heritage Classic and opening her up from 88 cubic inches to 95 cubic inches. The plan is to put new heads, pistons and cams and to do it once and do it right. They are talking about $2500) I would like a little more punch and torque, but yet keep the bike dependable or should I just leave it at 88 and just ride? Your thoughts and imput would be appreciated.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 136
Likes: 3
From: Bronx,NY
hi dixiebob my brother just did the 88 to 95 kit for his 2003 softail standard for around the same price im in the process of doing 96 to 103 stage iv for my bike as we speak the dealer just brought his bike back and he says it was defintely worth it.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 6
From: Edmond, Ok
There are better packages out there. I'm not knocking the HD ones, but for the money spent, you can get better "bang-for-your-buck." I know- I've done both. Call Dave at JD's Cycles, or Scott at Hillside. They can really get you going....and no, you're not going to lose reliability by going to a 95".
R.I.P. BROTHER
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,076
Likes: 6
From: Colorado Springs
I bought my bike used from a fellow member (05' Night Train) with the 95" kit and a set of 211's already installed. The 05's had valve seal issues and when the warranty check came to fix the the PO sprung a few extra bucks for the 95" kit. It made OK power. It made 79Hp and 91TQ in generic cookie cutter dealer installed 95" kit mode.
I took and had the heads milled and ported, adjustable pushrods, 3 angle valve job, hand matched piston rings on a minutely larger bore and swapped out the Big Shot pipes for a set of big Shot staggereds with the larger exit diameter and the power chamber followed by a good tune with the direct Link deal at my local Dynojet tuner.
It now makes 94HP/104TQ and runs and rides about as strong as I need for now....The headwork, handmatched rings and bore combined with the 3 angle valve job and adjustable pushrods cost me $900.00
Parts cost on the original 95" kit was like $500-$600 bucks (Cams and Jugs) but the labor was free.
The tune with the direct link was $450.00
They want to sell you new heads and pistons? The guy that built my motor claimed that his heads would perform as well or better than the HTCC at our altitude (6000 feet above) and he also stated that doing a forged piston in a mild stage 3 build was pointless and wouldnt gain me a thing.....
Seems like there are as many opinions on motor builds as there are....Err you know.
Heres what my Train is doing after the above. Its as reliable and ridable as a stocker....Naw its more ridable! If I wasnt way up in the clouds that HP number would be over 100.
I took and had the heads milled and ported, adjustable pushrods, 3 angle valve job, hand matched piston rings on a minutely larger bore and swapped out the Big Shot pipes for a set of big Shot staggereds with the larger exit diameter and the power chamber followed by a good tune with the direct Link deal at my local Dynojet tuner.
It now makes 94HP/104TQ and runs and rides about as strong as I need for now....The headwork, handmatched rings and bore combined with the 3 angle valve job and adjustable pushrods cost me $900.00
Parts cost on the original 95" kit was like $500-$600 bucks (Cams and Jugs) but the labor was free.
The tune with the direct link was $450.00
They want to sell you new heads and pistons? The guy that built my motor claimed that his heads would perform as well or better than the HTCC at our altitude (6000 feet above) and he also stated that doing a forged piston in a mild stage 3 build was pointless and wouldnt gain me a thing.....
Seems like there are as many opinions on motor builds as there are....Err you know.
Heres what my Train is doing after the above. Its as reliable and ridable as a stocker....Naw its more ridable! If I wasnt way up in the clouds that HP number would be over 100.
Last edited by Chazmanian; Mar 12, 2009 at 02:51 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,949
Likes: 288
Chazmanian is right on. I spent over a year as a lurker and occasional questioner on the "Engine, Intake, Exhaust" forum here and learned a ton about how to do a build. HD makes good stuff, but you can do much better for the price by going with one of the builders or assembling the package on your own. I am commencing my build this weekend and am doing the following:
HD Roller Chain Conversion with HV Oil Pump and Billet Cam Plate (I have a 2005 Deluxe)
Woods 6-6R Cam target compression 10.2-10.25.
Street Port with larger intake (1.9") and compression releases by Big Boyz
Tapered Adjustable pushrods
Jugs bored and SE HC 10.25 Cast Pistons
Cometic Gaskets, new B lifters, Torrington Inner Cam Bearings.
All in including labor will be just under $2K. Less if I had the courage to do it myself. The key is to get a package, or assemble one based on the principle that everything has to work together. Think about how you ride, where you want power (down low, highway, two-up, etc.) and then put everything together. There are many good resources here (Chazmanian named a couple of good ones), or you can take a little time to understand it yourself and put it together. I found the process and patience well worth it, as I learned a lot about what makes my bike run. Good luck.
Ted
HD Roller Chain Conversion with HV Oil Pump and Billet Cam Plate (I have a 2005 Deluxe)
Woods 6-6R Cam target compression 10.2-10.25.
Street Port with larger intake (1.9") and compression releases by Big Boyz
Tapered Adjustable pushrods
Jugs bored and SE HC 10.25 Cast Pistons
Cometic Gaskets, new B lifters, Torrington Inner Cam Bearings.
All in including labor will be just under $2K. Less if I had the courage to do it myself. The key is to get a package, or assemble one based on the principle that everything has to work together. Think about how you ride, where you want power (down low, highway, two-up, etc.) and then put everything together. There are many good resources here (Chazmanian named a couple of good ones), or you can take a little time to understand it yourself and put it together. I found the process and patience well worth it, as I learned a lot about what makes my bike run. Good luck.
Ted
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 6
From: Spokane, WA.
do the 95
+1 on a 95 build. Rode with a guy that has a 06 fatty, and his bike definitely hauls the mail! 95 builds really seem to be what the doctor ordered for the 88.
Can't wait to ride my 103 build that's being done on my 07 fatty.
Ride Safe !
Can't wait to ride my 103 build that's being done on my 07 fatty.
Ride Safe !
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 399
Likes: 2
From: C-bus
I have an 03 softail standard, did 95" upgrade (at 20k miles) with adjustable pushrods, s&s 510g (gear drive) cams and race tuner and I could not be happier with it (now have 40k miles). Power is great 98tq 90hp and still get about 40mpg. Good strong reliable motor.
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Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 729
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
i would say that the 95 is worth it. i love mine and if i ever got another bike with an 88 in it i would for sure put another 95 in it. and if i get one with a 96 in it i would make it into a 103.it is very reliable and i get right around 40mpg (the same as my boss's new ultra). but my 95 has got a ton more tq and hp then my boss's ultra with the 96. i've let 5 or 6 people ride my bike that have either 88's or 96's (stock other than pipes and air cleaners) and i've heard nothing but i love it and man that's so much quicker and faster than mine. or i would be getting a lot of speeding tickets if that was min.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,357
Likes: 11
From: The Lone Star State
Lots of good info in the engine forum. I am reading and taking in as much as I can. I am planning a 95" build down the road a bit too. I am looking to keep the price under 2K for parts and labor. Do your research.