Engine: 02 TC88
Cam: SE 203 chain drive

Question: With the bearings pressed into the cam plate, the front cam is a pressed fit. The rear cam just slips into the roller bearing with no pressure applied (new inner bearing race on cam). Everywhere mentions to install the bearing with the #'s facing out but there aren't any #'s on the rear bearing. HD bearing kit 8983. The bearing appears to be the same on both sides. So, am I safe to go with the rear cam fitment? Thanks

 

The only reference that I can find about the rear camshaft not being a pressed fit, is in the service manual. It says that while slowly applying pressure on the front cam, wiggle the rear cam as necessary to guide inner race between bearing rollers. I don't see the rear cam being pressed in for any further install.

Why does it appear on all of my internet searches, that the rear cam is pressed into the roller bearing? Is the pressed fit on the rear cam only for gear drives? I didn't find one article that says that my rear cam just drops into the bearing.

I'll wait for an answer before completing my install. Thanks.

 

Just finished my SE 203 chain drive cam install on my 02 FatBoy. The answer to my own question, without talking to anyone is "The rear camshaft is not a pressed fit into the bearing". *Drain the oil before you start, it will help* Used the plastic straw in the spark plug hole for locating TDC when removing/installing the rocker arm shafts/pushrods for each cylinder. Used the stock pushrods and I had some plastic magnetic darts laying around, so I used them to hold up the lifters. I did the oven/freezer method for all of the bearing installs. Pulled the tensioners back with a "Visegrip (5wr)" and I used a 8" adjustable wrench on the visegrip for some leverage because the tensioner spring is strong. Held them in place with a stout metal pin that fit the hole. On final install, I released the rear tensioner by it's ears (where the holding pin goes thru) with a flat head screwdriver and released it slowly. I picked up the free/leave a deposit ($150)/rented "blind hole puller" from Autozone for the inner cam bearing removal, tapped the new B-148's in with my old cam ($5.60 each @ local bearing store). The inner bearings will bottom out on the lip on the backside. No cam/crank locking tool, just stood on the brake pedal/5th gear for the cam/crank nut removal and final torque with no problem. Kept the tensioners with 20K (good condition) and used the stock oil pressure spring. Didn't have to change the cam spacer because it was right on. Rotated the rear wheel in 5th gear to turn the engine over for oil pump alignment (bolts finger loose & slightly touching the plate) and for sprocket alignment and for pushrod install (plugs out of course). Nothing magical about installing and lining up the dots on the sprockets. After I finished putting it back together, plugs still out and with fresh oil, I rotated the back wheel for a few minutes to get the new oil circulated on the parts, just in case.

Now, from all of my searching and searching with very little luck, I can now share something from my own experience about the cam change. My bike has the basic mods, Arlen Ness "Big Sucker" air filter, "Thunderheader" exhaust and SE ignition module 32719-01A. The carb is a stock TC88/Keihin CV40, 45 slow/190 main with sportster needle 27094-88 and air mix @ 2.3 turns. The vacum hole on the slide is drilled out at the present time.

The addition of the SE203 cams perked it up and that is exactly what I was looking for. The additional performance is much more noticeable than the addition of the pipes & air filter but I will have to say that the "Thunderheader" was a great addition and it's actually kind of quiet when you're cruising. Just like everyone said about the idle is true, "It is not a smooth idling cam and it lopes". My obsevation is that the "lope" is smooth, constant and very pleasing to listen to. So, for me the bottom line to share with everyone is "It was a worthwhile addition to the overall performance of the engine. The exhaust db really doesn't seem to have increased but the exhaust note did change and the engine sounds like it is very happy with the addition. The bike seems to run smoother and with less effort. I am a very moderate rider and I might be considered a cruiser. The cam is described as "low end to mid-range torque" and for my riding style, it feels good. Give it a little throttle and you'll feel it kick in when it hits that sweet spot. It's not a "torque monster" but you will appreciate the pull. I read that someone described the SE 203's as a "why bother cam". Well, with my setup, I give it an extra Big Thumbs Up!!!

Engine oil: Mobil 1 V-Twin
Trans oil: Red Line V-Twin/shockproof (22 oz.)
Spark plugs: Autolite 4164
Primary drive: Amsoil 20w-50

So, I found out a few days after I installed the cams, that in 02 they changed the plastic breather underneath the rocker cover to a metal one (17650-02). I wasn't about to try and pry the 2 plastic halves apart to replace the gasket and umbrella valve, so I just reused them. I'll pick up the new metal ones today (*picked them up, $10 each, complete with everything, not installed yet*). When I hit the 90lb torque setting on the plastic breather bolts, well, it sounded like it could have easily cracked and when I first removed the original breather bolts, they weren't what I would considered "torqued". I didn't have a dial indicator to check crank runout but I did see a nice bolt on indicator offered by "Feuling".

I have a HD Service Manual for my bike. I've read countless articles about what people have done and I am very grateful to everyone who has shared their experience, advice and knowledge. I didn't plan ahead and splurge for all of the tools but when I take it apart next time, I'll have a few of those tools added to my toolbox. One thing that I did do right was to have all of my removed parts organized and to have my bolt removal/install sequence written down with the appropriate torque settings. I drew a diagrahm of the removed parts: covers, oil pump, rocker arm assembly, cam plate, etc... (holes punched for bolts) and I put the bolts in the exact holes that they came out of. I had the torque settings listed on each diagrahm. I cleaned all of the bolts with brake cleaner and I got down and cleaned all of the threads with my fingernail and a thin cloth. There is absolutley nothing hard or complex about the job and with the right tools, organization and preparation, it will make it so much easier. For the cam install, you should have a torque wrench covering 0-250 in lbs and another torque wrench covering @ least 0-50 ft lbs. Don't forget the red and blue loctite (small tube .20 fl oz./6ml will do) and some anti-seize for the plugs.

***** To top it off, I bought the cams from a HD Forum member *****

It's Spring and I'm going out riding today. Good Luck!!!!! aw

 

Apologies for not responding to your original post and question...

Good job and write up! Well worth the effort, for sure! Did the same oven/freezer process just a couple months ago. Well, except for the darts - great the pic!!

Yeah, lots of opinions about cams... lol Took the 21's on a 2up ride for the first time yesterday, you will appreciate your cams even more when you ride 2up!!

 

How long did this swap take you? I have all of the stuff for mine with the exception of new cams. Would you say it was easy enough to do yourself? My concern is I will get everything apart and not be able to get it back together. Did you reuse stock pushrods or cut to old ones and reinstall them? Thanks.

 

If you are mechanical, patient and not in a hurry - you can do it. I reused push rods and now that it is done, I am glad I did. However, adj's will make it easier and save some time. Also, when putting the cam plate and oil pump back together - have some help. You need some one spinning the rear wheel in 5th while slowly tightening down the bolts. Personally, I would do it this way again rather than use those pins. It makes more sense to me as this method allows the oil pump to center itself... jmo

 

good write up im thinking of doing my own cam install shortly