DIY Oil change for Nubee!!
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2008
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DIY Oil change for Nubee!!
Hello Ladies and Gents..
I am just about to change the oil on my Deluxe and have the ultimate nubee question..
Ok.. I've jacked the bike up.. looked under the motor and see a small Hex head drain plug... Unscrewed it.. only a few ounces of oil drains..
The question is there a drain hose or plug to drain all the oil from the oil tank under my seat..
I would appreciate any link or pictures on the oil change process.. seems logical to siphon the oil tank but i'm sure the folks at HD have a better way to drain these motors..
thank you in Advance for any guidance
david
I am just about to change the oil on my Deluxe and have the ultimate nubee question..
Ok.. I've jacked the bike up.. looked under the motor and see a small Hex head drain plug... Unscrewed it.. only a few ounces of oil drains..
The question is there a drain hose or plug to drain all the oil from the oil tank under my seat..
I would appreciate any link or pictures on the oil change process.. seems logical to siphon the oil tank but i'm sure the folks at HD have a better way to drain these motors..
thank you in Advance for any guidance
david
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,975
Likes: 12
From: NJ
I suspect you removed the crankcase plug. Not a good idea since you run the risk of cracking the case. Careful putting it back in.
The oil drain plug is under and in the right frame rail of your bike just to the rear of the oil tank. It's a 5/8 bolt with a hex inside.
Drain the oil with the bike level and not on the stand. You may be able to get away with reusing the old 0 ring on the plug but better to replace it. 14-21ft lbs.
Oil filter is hand tightened 3/4 turn after contact with surface. Careful about over tightening.
Refill with 2.5qts of oil. Capacity is 3qts but wet fill calls for 2.5.
Then get yourself a service manual
_________________
2008 Heritage Deluxe: His
2008 Deluxe: Hers
The oil drain plug is under and in the right frame rail of your bike just to the rear of the oil tank. It's a 5/8 bolt with a hex inside.
Drain the oil with the bike level and not on the stand. You may be able to get away with reusing the old 0 ring on the plug but better to replace it. 14-21ft lbs.
Oil filter is hand tightened 3/4 turn after contact with surface. Careful about over tightening.
Refill with 2.5qts of oil. Capacity is 3qts but wet fill calls for 2.5.
Then get yourself a service manual
_________________
2008 Heritage Deluxe: His
2008 Deluxe: Hers
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 602
Likes: 12
From: Ma.
David, just like Jim said, get a service manual for your bike. It explains everything in detail. It is a wise investment. You will use that manual more than you could imagine. In the mean time, warm your engine, pull out the dip stick to release the pressure and watch that oil pour out quick. Good Luck...Ray
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 852
Likes: 3
+1 on service manual. Be careful if your doing xmission. That's between the shocks. Not as easy to see what your doing. Oil is a piece of cake...
I have not yet had a clean oil filter removal yet. I've tried the zip lock baggy, and foil, and still made a mess. Going to try the Coke bottle next... I also used the K&N171C chrome oil filter. Has a nut that makes it real easy to remove and install. Plus it looks pretty cool...
good luck
I have not yet had a clean oil filter removal yet. I've tried the zip lock baggy, and foil, and still made a mess. Going to try the Coke bottle next... I also used the K&N171C chrome oil filter. Has a nut that makes it real easy to remove and install. Plus it looks pretty cool...
good luck
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 123
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From:
That sounds like it just might work! Thanks, I'll try it next time!
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 438
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From: Florida
One more detail that is in Fix My Hog. Suggest you pre-fill the new oil filter about half full of clean oil before installing it. If you move quick you won't lose much of the new oil while screwing it on.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 17,625
Likes: 1,665
From: Blairsville GA
Using a floor jack IMO makes it harder to change fliuds. I use a stub of 2X4 under the jiffy stand to get it straight up. If you pop the dipstick the oil will drain faster. By the way it's recommended to bring the bike up to operating temperature before changing the fluids. Operating temperature doesn't mean a run across Death Valley in July. Just hot enough so the oil flows out smoothly. 
I've tried many methods to keep from making a mess when changing the filter. None of them is as easy or works as well as a couple of shots of brake cleaner.
Removing the trans plug is not so bad. Putting it back in requires just a little dexterity. If you are good at visualizing what your fingers are "seeing" its relatively easy to get it started between your index and middle fingers. If you're not, a nut or two in a deep socket on a 3" extension will do the job. A trick you can try is that when you are near the hole go counterclockwise (like you were loosening) until you feel the threads of the plug "click" against the threads of the hole. Tighten carefully from there. You really don't want to strip a drain.
Changing the primary oil is a piece of cake. Make sure you have the right size Torx bits to remove the cover screws and the drain plug. I don;t know how many of htem suckers I've chased out with a small chisel because someone tried to get them out with a hex key.
Be careful not to overfill any of the fluids. A little low is a lot better than a little overfull.
I've tried many methods to keep from making a mess when changing the filter. None of them is as easy or works as well as a couple of shots of brake cleaner.
Removing the trans plug is not so bad. Putting it back in requires just a little dexterity. If you are good at visualizing what your fingers are "seeing" its relatively easy to get it started between your index and middle fingers. If you're not, a nut or two in a deep socket on a 3" extension will do the job. A trick you can try is that when you are near the hole go counterclockwise (like you were loosening) until you feel the threads of the plug "click" against the threads of the hole. Tighten carefully from there. You really don't want to strip a drain.
Changing the primary oil is a piece of cake. Make sure you have the right size Torx bits to remove the cover screws and the drain plug. I don;t know how many of htem suckers I've chased out with a small chisel because someone tried to get them out with a hex key.
Be careful not to overfill any of the fluids. A little low is a lot better than a little overfull.