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There has always been discussion about this issue. I have never known someone that actually had a problem, however. Is this all a lot of talk with a few random real world occurances? I don't know...
I have also heard (and agree with) that replacing the cams with gear driven cams is overkill. The precise timing that is required for professional racing just isn't that big an issue on the street and you put up with more noise and considerable expense.
It is my understanding that you can convert the old tensioner design to a new one that uses a more dependable approach when your shoes finally do wear out. With proper maintenance and regular oil changes it seems the consensus is to get them looked at at around 50k and plan on replacement at about 75k. When the tensioner shoe goes you will know it because the bike will start running like crap. That doesn't mean it will explode however. If I had 50k on my bike and I was planning on a really long trip (the four corners, say) then I would proceed with the replacement. I have 45k on mine and haven't had any problems yet.
Random or not - it happens. Why do you think HD changed to the hydraulic tensioners? If you are an unlucky one, your motor will not only "run like crap", it can become crap.
The tensioner pic I posted from my 06 will not last 50k miles. Glad I know the tensioners condition now verses when "the bike will start running like crap"... lol
btw - you may want to speak with HD regarding how often tensioners should be checked. Every 50k miles seems on the high side. It would be irresponsible to misinform some one and their tensioners never make it to 50K
There has always been discussion about this issue. I have never known someone that actually had a problem, however. Is this all a lot of talk with a few random real world occurances? I don't know...
I have also heard (and agree with) that replacing the cams with gear driven cams is overkill. The precise timing that is required for professional racing just isn't that big an issue on the street and you put up with more noise and considerable expense.
It is my understanding that you can convert the old tensioner design to a new one that uses a more dependable approach when your shoes finally do wear out. With proper maintenance and regular oil changes it seems the consensus is to get them looked at at around 50k and plan on replacement at about 75k. When the tensioner shoe goes you will know it because the bike will start running like crap. That doesn't mean it will explode however. If I had 50k on my bike and I was planning on a really long trip (the four corners, say) then I would proceed with the replacement. I have 45k on mine and haven't had any problems yet.
C#
I'm no paid wrench, but have seen, inspected or swapped out more than one early worn tensioner that certainly would not have made it to 50k miles.
I don't think anybody in this thread was trying to convince the OP to go to a gear drive. Heck, the thread wasn't even about tensioner wear. With that said, if you are swapping cams, going to gears doesn't add that much expense, particularly if your tensioners were shot....Overkill or not. I certainly know that not worrying about tensioners any more is worth the extra $$ to me.
Oil changes ain't got nothing to do with tensioner wear, nor does brand or type of oil. Tensioner wear is a crapshoot. You don't know that anything is wrong until it is too late sometimes. I'd rather look at them and have to buy a gasket than to wait until it was too late and my oil pump was trashed...Roll the dice and ride yours till 50k before you look at them. You may get lucky.
These tensioners came out of a concervatively ridden, well maintained Ultra with 36k miles on it. I certainly wouldn't want to ride to 50k on them.
What I said was 'have them checked after 50k miles' is what more than one knowledgeable wrench has told me. If you have bad ones they will show up earlier, of course. If your bike runs like crap you stop running it and find out what caused it. Of course continuing to run the bike after they fail will potentially cause damage to the engine. As you can see in the thumbnail, they don't necessarily wear evenly. You can only inspect, I believe, the outer tensioners without pulling the cam... but I haven't gotten to this problem, yet, so I'm no expert. I read a pretty good article in VTwin magazine where polishing the chains so that they don't have sharp edges was recommended. Since then, better chain design... then better tensioner design. While I agree that Harley tends to deny design failures, I still have not seen nor heard >a first hand account in person< of a single case of these failing before 50k. Changing and improving a design does not mean that the previously used design was a failure.
I have also seen pictures of these with 75k on them an barely any wear. I agree that this is a crap shoot but responsibly addressing a poor running engine will avoid a catastrophe... which means call a tow truck and take it to the shop. I have also heard people complain about not being able to keep the adjustable push rods adjusted within tolerance. Who knows... Me, I'm going with the improved tensioner design instead of gear driven cams because my pipes aren't that loud.
went to gear drive at 32 thou miles shoes had minimal wear but now it's good to go as long as I am. had a friend that had the front cam bearing go on his and harley said sorry no warrenty. another had it go on a new bike on the way back from vegas after oicking up the bike -rear bearing that was ok by harley. take your chances or get it fixed now before it's tow truck time..
What I said was 'have them checked after 50k miles' is what more than one knowledgeable wrench has told me. If you have bad ones they will show up earlier, of course. If your bike runs like crap you stop running it and find out what caused it. Of course continuing to run the bike after they fail will potentially cause damage to the engine. As you can see in the thumbnail, they don't necessarily wear evenly. You can only inspect, I believe, the outer tensioners without pulling the cam... but I haven't gotten to this problem, yet, so I'm no expert. I read a pretty good article in VTwin magazine where polishing the chains so that they don't have sharp edges was recommended. Since then, better chain design... then better tensioner design. While I agree that Harley tends to deny design failures, I still have not seen nor heard >a first hand account in person< of a single case of these failing before 50k. Changing and improving a design does not mean that the previously used design was a failure.
I have also seen pictures of these with 75k on them an barely any wear. I agree that this is a crap shoot but responsibly addressing a poor running engine will avoid a catastrophe... which means call a tow truck and take it to the shop. I have also heard people complain about not being able to keep the adjustable push rods adjusted within tolerance. Who knows... Me, I'm going with the improved tensioner design instead of gear driven cams because my pipes aren't that loud.
C#
In 2002 I bought a 1999 Electra Glide from Daytona Harley Davidson, it had just over 21k miles and ran fantastic. The next month, July, My wife and I loaded up for the weekend to attend the 100th Anniversary party in Atlanta. By the time we hit the 75 heading into Georgia I noticed a bity of power loss, we stopped in Valdosta got the oil changed by the only shop open and continued to ATL. By the time we got there the bike was no power noisy and occasional backfire. The next morning it would not start and I pushed it to the H-D shop. The whole cam chest internals were gone. I had maybe 22k on the bike, so, forget the 45k check. If you don't have a warranty get it done asap. BTW, the H-D warranty, paid for our hotel(which we had already reserved), rental car, and food for the 3 days, definitely worth getting!
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