The trick is to actually mount the bars with the internal wiring first. THEN check the cables for length. Don't be a dummy like me and just take someone's advice. I added 4 inches to everything based on advice. When I got everything installed the throttle cables were 2 inches to long and the brake 2 inches too short. The Clutch was perfect. Better to have your bike down a few days getting proper measurements than to have extra cable pushing up against your triple trees or have a brake line that looks like you could walk it like a tight rope.

My .02

 

I can't comment on cable lengths and such, but I can say this.... I just put the Wild 1 #551's (beach bars) on my Springer Classic. Very easy to do, just make sure you take your time and understand that it is a good 3-5 hour job, depending on your skill level and attention to detail. I completely removed my tank and probably have a little over 4 hours invested in it, but they look great and everything fits as though it should. The switch harness will easily slide through the bars intact (wire covers and all- at least mine did). Just take your time to properly label the wires after removing them from their respective junction block so you can plug them in afterwards in the proper place.

I used some construction twine, sucked it through the bars with a vacuum, and taped it onto the harness to assist in pulling the wires through the bars. Using the push/pull technique, it was very simple.

Let me know if you have any questions. The Springer Classic comes with factory quasi-beach bars, and the Wild 1's are maybe 2' longer on each side. No wiring extensions were necessary. The throttle and brake cables work fine, and the brake line (a 40" stinless braided black Goodridge unit to match the clutch/throttle cables) works great.

Carl

 

wild 1 here also, 12.5 inch. needed all new cables, so went w/ braided.

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