Yet another handlebar ??????
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,476
Likes: 3,003
From: Charleston, SC
RE: Yet another handlebar ??????
The trick is to actually mount the bars with the internal wiring first. THEN check the cables for length. Don't be a dummy like me and just take someone's advice. I added 4 inches to everything based on advice. When I got everything installed the throttle cables were 2 inches to long and the brake 2 inches too short. The Clutch was perfect. Better to have your bike down a few days getting proper measurements than to have extra cable pushing up against your triple trees or have a brake line that looks like you could walk it like a tight rope.
My .02
My .02
ORIGINAL: Softbutt
So im looking into new bars for my ride..... After reading every post on here it sounds like Wild1 are the best bars........ Heres the question, how big of a pain are they to replace???? Some say replace wires, some say dont. Reading Wild1 website the 514 dont need a cable change..... But when I read on here most post say you do.......
Well, im just asking for all observations...... Thanks
So im looking into new bars for my ride..... After reading every post on here it sounds like Wild1 are the best bars........ Heres the question, how big of a pain are they to replace???? Some say replace wires, some say dont. Reading Wild1 website the 514 dont need a cable change..... But when I read on here most post say you do.......
Well, im just asking for all observations...... Thanks
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 11
From: Rapid City, SD
RE: Yet another handlebar ??????
I can't comment on cable lengths and such, but I can say this.... I just put the Wild 1 #551's (beach bars) on my Springer Classic. Very easy to do, just make sure you take your time and understand that it is a good 3-5 hour job, depending on your skill level and attention to detail. I completely removed my tank and probably have a little over 4 hours invested in it, but they look great and everything fits as though it should. The switch harness will easily slide through the bars intact (wire covers and all- at least mine did). Just take your time to properly label the wires after removing them from their respective junction block so you can plug them in afterwards in the proper place.
I used some construction twine, sucked it through the bars with a vacuum, and taped it onto the harness to assist in pulling the wires through the bars. Using the push/pull technique, it was very simple.
Let me know if you have any questions. The Springer Classic comes with factory quasi-beach bars, and the Wild 1's are maybe 2' longer on each side. No wiring extensions were necessary. The throttle and brake cables work fine, and the brake line (a 40" stinless braided black Goodridge unit to match the clutch/throttle cables) works great.
Carl
I used some construction twine, sucked it through the bars with a vacuum, and taped it onto the harness to assist in pulling the wires through the bars. Using the push/pull technique, it was very simple.
Let me know if you have any questions. The Springer Classic comes with factory quasi-beach bars, and the Wild 1's are maybe 2' longer on each side. No wiring extensions were necessary. The throttle and brake cables work fine, and the brake line (a 40" stinless braided black Goodridge unit to match the clutch/throttle cables) works great.
Carl
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