This was scary - dna wheel
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
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From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
At work (GM) on machine building we used the industry standard of having at least the same amount of thread depth as the Dia of the bolt..
So A 1/2 dia bolt must have at least 1/2 in of threads in the tapped hole to hold properly.
3/8", 3/8"of threads in the hole..ETC.
So A 1/2 dia bolt must have at least 1/2 in of threads in the tapped hole to hold properly.
3/8", 3/8"of threads in the hole..ETC.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,656
Likes: 10
From: Aledo, Texas
I always thought it was 2:1 in a blind hole and 1:1 for a nut/bolt combination.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 578
Likes: 1
From: Many, Louisiana
finally got to ride after doing a 200 conversion on my '02 softail and after 50.1 miles my ride made a hell of a noise and vibration. i came to an abrupt (but safe) stop to find that my rear sprocket had come out of my wheel hub!!! looks like some of the new bolts came loose and the rest pulled right out of the billet hub. this was a brand new DNA spoked wheel with a chromed billet hub that i bought from american classic motors. bolts used were new high-grade and were torqued to harley spec with a recently calibrated snap-on torque wrench and had red lock-tite (stick type - that sat for a week due to bad riding weather). no help from american classic motors or DNA. they dont even call back. sent the wheel to a machine shop to have 5 new holes machined into hub and guess i'll try again... any suggestions??
That sucks! But I'm glad you are OK. That could have really been a bad deal! I'd keep calling and emailing DNA till I got in touch with some one. See what they have to say about it.
Chop On,
Robert
Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 7
From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
I guess the main question would be , how much thread was left that didn't strip out, or could have been made use of for more holding power? Sounds like you did everything right but the bolts were too short. The above posts for thread area are good for metals of equal composition. Steel bolts in aluminum threads need more thread count to equal out, unless you use helicoils. Then it's pretty much steel- steel again.
Ron
Ron
Last edited by rbabos; Jul 27, 2009 at 08:29 PM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,357
Likes: 11
From: The Lone Star State
Were you running a DNA pulley? I have read that the bolts that come with the DNA pulley's are actually too short and you need to purchase longer chrome bolts to account for the spacer. Maybe you used a bolt that was too short? Just offering ideas. Good luck.
Club Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 2
From: Central IL.
Checked mine, and all is good!
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Glad to hear you are Ok too!
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Glad to hear you are Ok too!
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Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 34
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From: orlando, fl
Hrmm Interesting. I myself did a similar conversion, and had a pulley issue. I was in daytona for Bike Week, and had another fellow come up from behind and said that my pulley was wobbling. Sure enough, 2 bolts had backed out, and 1 of them was extremely close to colliding with the swingarm....bad news. The bolts that I received were too long, for the new pulley which seemed to be narrower near the hub, versus the factory one. I had to grind them down until they cleared. I torqued them ****'s down to spec and put on the red loctite and haven't had a problem yet.....
Not to highjack this thread, but can anyone tell me if by re-torquing the bolts as a check before a long ride, am messing with loctite settlement and making things worse?
Thanks, and as a precaution I ALWAYS visually check the pulley... call me paranoid.
Not to highjack this thread, but can anyone tell me if by re-torquing the bolts as a check before a long ride, am messing with loctite settlement and making things worse?
Thanks, and as a precaution I ALWAYS visually check the pulley... call me paranoid.