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G M NT, thanks for the info. Do you know what the specialty tools are? I have TQ wrenches and service manual and access to a press.
You will need the outer bearing removal/install tool. Screamin Eagle and Jims both have em. If your doing the inner bearings as well(optional but recommended) you will need the inner bearing install/removal tool as well.
You will need the outer bearing removal/install tool. Screamin Eagle and Jims both have em. If your doing the inner bearings as well(optional but recommended) you will need the inner bearing install/removal tool as well.
Big thanks for the info. I think I'm fix'n to jump into this.
Dont know how much difference the 96 with more stroke would be over my 95 but I can tell you that the SE 204 in my bike with 95 and stock heads really woke it up. Dynoed at 81 hp, 92 tq. Good power band lots of low to mid range pulling power.
Your newer bikes do not have cam outer bearings - they are sleeved...
The cams will just drop out and slide back into the cam plate. Wish my 06 was like that when I installed 21's. Your cam swap will be a lot easier.
You can use a blind hole bearing puller for inner bearings. Auto zone has them with free rental. Use old cams and a rubber mallet to gently tap in new bearings. They go in real easy...
Your newer bikes do not have cam outer bearings - they are sleeved...
The cams will just drop out and slide back into the cam plate. Wish my 06 was like that when I installed 21's. Your cam swap will be a lot easier.
You can use a blind hole bearing puller for inner bearings. Auto zone has them with free rental. Use old cams and a rubber mallet to gently tap in new bearings. They go in real easy...
Yep, totally spaced it that the newer TC's use a bushing sleeve. Hell, I'd actually say do an upgrade and get an older style cam plate that uses the older style outer cam bearings.
YW You do not need the crank/cam sprocket locking tool either - see day 2, 3rd and 4th pic from top. You can leave it in 6th gear, have someone put on rear brake while you loosen the sprocket bolts. Same for tightening.
You do not need the oil pump alignment pins either. Hand tighten all 4 oil pump bolts while some one is turning the rear tire in 5th gear, spark plugs removed. While they are still turning the rear tire, gradually tighten each bolt per manuals tq pattern, gradually bringing the bolts up to tq specs. In other words, tightening each bolt a little at a time per tq pattern until they all reach tq spec. Turning the rear tire, turns the crank which causes the pump to align itself around the crank pinion shaft... Lots of people do it this way and the company Fueling who makes high performance HD oil pumps recommends this method.
YW You do not need the crank/cam sprocket locking tool either - see day 2, 3rd and 4th pic from top. You can leave it in 6th gear, have someone put on rear brake while you loosen the sprocket bolts. Same for tightening.
You do not need the oil pump alignment pins either. Hand tighten all 4 oil pump bolts while some one is turning the rear tire in 5th gear, spark plugs removed. While they are still turning the rear tire, gradually tighten each bolt per manuals tq pattern, gradually bringing the bolts up to tq specs. In other words, tightening each bolt a little at a time per tq pattern until they all reach tq spec. Turning the rear tire, turns the crank which causes the pump to align itself around the crank pinion shaft... Lots of people do it this way and the company Fueling who makes high performance HD oil pumps recommends this method.
Good deal and thanks for the heads up. I thought it looked like there were some steps that wouldn't be needed.
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