What would you do first?
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,323
Likes: 37
From: NJ
If you have non restrictive pipes AND you put a big sucker or open the air cleaner up you will get a ton of replies as to "should you or should you not get it tuned" Naturally I think my advice is the correct advice......
If you do this and dont do a tune your engine will run hotter. It will also run leaner (starved for fuel) and you will be able to confirm this by pulling your rear plug after 500 miles riding this way and you will see that the plug is burning white. (lean and hot)
The ECM can handle this with no noticible effect on performance HOWEVER......if you ride 1000 miles a year you will probably go 10 years before you start to have valve problems. If you ride 5000 miles a year or more you should definitly concider "something" to give your motor more fuel.
You can go ***** out and go for a Screemin eagle pro racing SERT and dyno it and let the tuner hook you up. But that is alot of money and really only comes into play if your thinking your going to do additional engine mod's down the line.....OR you can snap in a power commander and accomplish the same thing basically for half the cost.
A Power commander goes AFTER the ECM and makes the increased fuel adjustment to the injectors and gets rid of the whole "running lean thing".
I'd do something rather than nothing.....
If you do this and dont do a tune your engine will run hotter. It will also run leaner (starved for fuel) and you will be able to confirm this by pulling your rear plug after 500 miles riding this way and you will see that the plug is burning white. (lean and hot)
The ECM can handle this with no noticible effect on performance HOWEVER......if you ride 1000 miles a year you will probably go 10 years before you start to have valve problems. If you ride 5000 miles a year or more you should definitly concider "something" to give your motor more fuel.
You can go ***** out and go for a Screemin eagle pro racing SERT and dyno it and let the tuner hook you up. But that is alot of money and really only comes into play if your thinking your going to do additional engine mod's down the line.....OR you can snap in a power commander and accomplish the same thing basically for half the cost.
A Power commander goes AFTER the ECM and makes the increased fuel adjustment to the injectors and gets rid of the whole "running lean thing".
I'd do something rather than nothing.....
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 5
From: Massachusetts
IMO, a stage 1 is always a good thing, regardless of the riding style. That little power "reserve" that you don't have without a working AC/pipes combination can put a huge grin in your face when you ride it for the first time with that setup.
Then, it is always a question of taste, budget, personal skills (if you do your own work), and your very own needs (the so-said poof effect). It is also a question if you are ready to compromise in the looks/comfort department. Not everything that looks good works good (I own a barebones, I know what I am talking about). and not everything that works great will look clean and nice.
Then, it is always a question of taste, budget, personal skills (if you do your own work), and your very own needs (the so-said poof effect). It is also a question if you are ready to compromise in the looks/comfort department. Not everything that looks good works good (I own a barebones, I know what I am talking about). and not everything that works great will look clean and nice.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: MI
Mods are easy... wait until you go the Dealer to pick up a chrome bolt and while you are there waiting you start looking at the bikes and decide a little more comfort would be nice.
POOF....New bike, ask me how I know.
POOF....New bike, ask me how I know.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 953
Likes: 0
From: SOUTH-ALABAMA
^ agreed on taking the wrenches out of the stealers hands. Unless your looking for a raping and popped blood vessles, go to your favorite indy . . . you know him well, its you.
I looked at what I am in contact with most for starters. ie: grips, bars, and forward controls. I got the bracket that moved my stock controls forward 3". cheap, like hundred bucks and change cheap, and you get to keep your factory pegs etc.
Agreed with taking time in picking larger acc. Listen to other bikes, ask people what they've got etc. Bike night at Hooters every other Tues around here gave me a lot of knowledge into what I was doing.
then POOF your wallets empty and your eating vienna sausages for a week cause you bought too much **** for the bike. Ask me how I know.
Vienna sausages for a MONTH are worth a new set of pipes 
I looked at what I am in contact with most for starters. ie: grips, bars, and forward controls. I got the bracket that moved my stock controls forward 3". cheap, like hundred bucks and change cheap, and you get to keep your factory pegs etc.
Agreed with taking time in picking larger acc. Listen to other bikes, ask people what they've got etc. Bike night at Hooters every other Tues around here gave me a lot of knowledge into what I was doing.
then POOF your wallets empty and your eating vienna sausages for a week cause you bought too much **** for the bike. Ask me how I know.
Vienna sausages for a MONTH are worth a new set of pipes
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,186
Likes: 6
From: Gray's Creek NC
+1 on the sissy bar. I would address the performance issues first. Stage one etc. Look at a whole lot of bikes to get an idea of what you like, there are a ton of good-looking bikes on this forum. Lowering is inexpensive and does a lot for the look, so does a tank lift, but I would definitely ditch the sissy bar. The first thing I did was change the seat, the original one was extremely uncomfortable.