I pulled the rear brake caliper to clean the two caliper pistons last weekend since mine seemed to be dragging a bit. From what I have read here it is pretty common. Here is what I did.

I propped the bike almost level by putting the jiffy stand on some plywood. Then I covered all the painted surfaces in close proximity to the rear wheel. If you have aftermarket pipes like me there is little clearance between the pipes and the caliper so you will need a T40 torx bit ($1.99 from Napa) to access the caliper screws in conjunction with a good Craftsman wrench. Once they are off the caliper can then be removed. When I started to remove the caliper it seemed like there was insufficient clearance between the wheel and frame to get it out but it is ok. I just placed some rags over the pipes and rested the caliper upside down on it for the procedure. Once it was off I pressed the brake pedal to see how the pistons moved (no assistant was needed). Like the Lyndall procedure stated only one piston moved. In order to get the other one to move I had to secure the brake pad in place over the extended piston with a small c-clamp and depressed the brake again. Then it moved out. I pushed the piston out to what I estimated was the position at maximum brake wear for the cleaning. The pistons were visibly dirty. I was conservative with the BPC and sprayed it onto some paper towels and cleaned the pistons using the saturated towels. They cleaned up pretty well and easily. I never removed the brakes from the caliper for the procedure since I was not replacing them and they were not in the way. I only did the procedure once due to a time constraint. Installing the caliper was a little tricky. I let the inner brake rotate out of the way for clearance in order to get it over the rotor then put it back in place before reinstalling the screws. They still seem to rub a bit so I might try it again and repeat it a few times since it seems to be pretty easy to do.

 

that seems to be normal,, I had mine done this spring at the 15k service and the rear dragged more than I though they should, but a usual they said its normal..

 

Same here, the rear brake wears out much faster than the front, just did mine 2 days ago. FYI the rear inner pad is hard to remove and reinstall, what I did is loosen the rear rotor prior to installation, it makes my life much easier.

 

Thats about right, you will always have some rub. I replaced my breaks with PM's
and the rear is a one piece unit, lets just say I had a few beers after it was done.

Nice 08 I may have seen it somewhere

 

Has anyone bought the HD rebuild kit and removed the pistons completely and replaced the seals.
I got sick of my squeal and have the whole rear caliper apart waiting on the rebuild kit to come in.
The only problem now is the manual says to use Versilube 322 on the pistons and noone sells Versilube not even HD.
I did notice that my lower inside piston (4 piston caliper) did not move at all before I started. This is pretty bad news since the bike only has 4300 miles.

 

Hmmmm ok, I know it's an old post, but thought I'd reply to this for future reference.. the Versilube comes in the kit apparently, according to the HD workshop manual... Cheers

 

From what I read the 00 to 07 years the kit had only 10 rubber rings. After that the MC added new cups to the 10 rings which brought the total from $16 dollars to over $100. From 00 to 07 you need to pull the rear axel to take the caliper off not sure about after 06.