Rocker Rear Fender cuts
Rocker Rear Fender cuts
All those who have cut their rear stock fender, please post up a picture, and what you used to cut it with and how did you "clean it up"
Thnx
Robert
Thnx
Robert
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 153
Likes: 3
From: Greenville, Tx
I first used my grinder and a 6" cutting wheel. Decided I didn't like the first cut and experimented using my Dremel toll with a cutting wheel. Liked using the Dremel as I had more control. Cleaned up everything with the 6" grinder. My finder cut came out looking a lot like yours, just a tad longer. I even incorporated the LED break lighting under the fender like your and added a "Back Off" break light module. Thanks for the encouragement.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 2
I drew what i wanted then made template out of a manila folder.. Traced it on to the fender then took my grinder to it... I finshed it of with hand files and much sander paper to smooth it out.. i welded a piece to it and two side tabs for my turn signals... Overall pretty easy just time consuming sanding to get it smooth and even...
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: El Paso, Tx (temp)
Fender cutting
I layed out my design with pin striping first then made some templates. Layed a layer of painters tape to make sure I had it even without a bunch of marks to confuse me. Then I chain drilled to keep from messing up. I used a 4" grinding wheel on my air tool and cut it out across the chain drilled holes. They allowed me to get it closer to the final cut without screwing it up and less finish grinding. I used the grinder to clean up the chaindrill holes and then bought a set of little 1" drum sanders from Harbor Frieght to clean up the final look. The drum sanders allow you to cut better radius' and not go outside your original lines.
I had to weld a piece of steel on the back of the point to stiffen it up and put two rivets in in cuz the skin is stainless and I couldn't weld stainless at the time on my welder. A little adhesive on the back of the point after welding and before the rivets just to ensure it NEVER comes loose from the vibrations!
I put one shot of what it looks like with the new paintjob in progress. Clear coat goes on soon after another layer of flames.
Hispeed
I had to weld a piece of steel on the back of the point to stiffen it up and put two rivets in in cuz the skin is stainless and I couldn't weld stainless at the time on my welder. A little adhesive on the back of the point after welding and before the rivets just to ensure it NEVER comes loose from the vibrations!
I put one shot of what it looks like with the new paintjob in progress. Clear coat goes on soon after another layer of flames.
Hispeed
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