Hey Riders

This thread is for you service gurus that do maintenance on your bikes. I have a shop manual and am preparing to do the 10K service including primary chain adjustment, if needed, and replacing brake pads on my 04 Fat Boy. I also want to install aftermarket handlebars (Wild1 - 8"Drag Bars) and do a 2" tank lift...so I will need to completely remove the tank to change the cross-over tube. I have a bike jack and the typical tool set (sockets, box wrenches, torx drivers, allen wrenches).

I will need some specialty tools to service my bike. I would appreciate advice on the 10K service, handlebar replacement, and any other specialty tools I will need for the 10K and later service intervals. Also, would like to know the best place to buy the specialty tools I will need.

1) Vacuum tool to remove gas tank - this tool (Mighty Mite??)draws vacuum on fuel petcock to allow gas tank to drain. This is in the softtail shop manual.

2) Oil Filter Wrench for softtails (clears the cam sensor?). Is it a good idea to switch to synthetic fluids if I plan to change engine oil every 2.5K, primary at 5K and trans at 10K intervals? If so, what synthetics/weights are recommend for the engine, trans and primary?

3) What torque wrenches (ft/lbs, inch/lbs ranges) are recommended to do most at home work on my bike. I won't be doing extensive motor work, but I will want to check torque on bolts/nuts as part of the 10K and later service intervals. I figure I need 3 wrenches (25-250 in-lbs, 20-150 ft-lbs and 25-250 ft-lbs)

4)Any other special tools needed to check/adjust my primary drive chain and replace brake pads?

Sorry for the tall order...Very much appreciated...
AlbertG

 

I am not a professional wrench, but I dabble somewhat. I just did my 10K at home on my 05 Heritage Classic and had fun doing it. Sounds like your on the right track with your preperations etc. Here are some of the things I've learned over the years:

The torque wrenches are important. Proper torque on covers and critical fasteners is very important. Too little, they may come undone. Too tight, it stresses the bolts and threaded surfaces which could lead to leaks and fastener failier (don't forget the blue locktite).

Oil filter wrench with the notch cut out is a good idea. I tried a strap wrench the first time (5K service) without much luck. Anything else may cause a problem with the crankshaft sensor.

While I was at it, I added the 06 style reduced effort clutch kit. I pulled the primary cover off for the clutch spring install, but it could have been done without removal. Anyway, it gave me a chance to see the inner workings on the primary drive side of things and it was easy to adjust the primary chain. I removed the heel shifter to gain a little more working room. I acutally used a set of dividers to measure my chain slack using the top of the primary housing as a reference point but just placing pencil marks on the back of the case will work. If you do the clutch kit , you will have to break into the right side of the transmission to replace the cam assembly, but that was pretty easy to do. I cut off an 'L' shaped allen wrench on the short side to get it in the bottom bolts as well as loosen the front muffler a bit to get the bottom bolts out.

NEW GASKETS!!! Some folks have good luck with re-using old gaskets, but I felt the cost for new ones was cheap insurance. And this is where good torque settings come into play or else you may warp a cover or something and cause a leak. Follow the shop manual on bolt tightening sequences. There is a reason for the sequences or else it they wouldn't publish them. You will need a clucth cover gasket and primary chain inspection cover gasket. If you pull the primary case off, a new aftermarket gasket set will be about $20.00, H-D version about $30.00. Use new O rings on the primary case, oil tank and transmission drain plugs (just some more cheap insurance).

Clean all surfaces before re-assembling. Any bit of trash such as metal shavings, grit, gravel etc and cause a leak even on a new gasket.

Spark plug threads should be coated with an anti-seize compound (H-D recommends Permatex Brand), and watch the torque.

I didn't do any brake work as all looked fine. I haven't done any bars or tanks, but if the shop manual requests a certain tool then you should be able to get it through you H-D Dealer. I got the oil filter wrench and rear shock spanner tool at my dealer. Torque wrenches can be bought at just about any auto parts stores, tool stores or Sears ( I bought Craftsman (on sale, of course)). You will need a T-27 Torx head bit. Most sets do not come with them, but you can get one just about anywhere.

Most of all, take your time and double check everything. I did my work and then had beverages afterward. (I tried to build a table and enjoy beverages at the same time one summer. The table eventually wound up in the wood burning stove and a new table that the wife picked out at the local furniture store set me back about $200.00)

Just some things I've learned over the years.

 

Mike05,

You're the man. Thanks for taking the time for the comprehensive reply. I sincerely appreciate it. I liked the table story...when it comes to furniture, it's best to buy the furniture and spend the time with your wife and bike.

Which aftermarket products/manufacturers have you used?

Thanks again. Enjoy the summer and your riding...

AlbertG

 

"Mike05"

You did a great job explaining the service on your bike.

I agree the reduced clutch effort kit is a worthwhile addition. Just did the same thing myself. I had my stock pipes off to do an install of new V&H BigShot Staggered pipes so the trans side clutch part replacement worked out great. It made a world of difference. I rented an 06 Heirtage while in Kauai recently and it had that kit and what a difference in shifting ease! Love it!

Yes, replace all the gaskets with new ones. Harley tells you that for a reason. You don't want to take a trip, heat up the oil and have it dripping all over the garage floor. Taking off the primary cover is a time consuming event and you don't want to do it twice because of a gasket issue.

I tried to pull out the clutch spring through the clutch cover and I couldn't do it. The spring is larger than the hole so I don't know how it can be done. I saw another post where someone claimed they did it that way.

I took off the primary cover and set the primary chain at the same time. Its so easy when the cover is off. I used a old wood ruler and put it against the chain and simply noted the difference when moving the chain up and down and adjusted to the lower manual specs. Don't forget to do the clutch adjustment at the same time while the covers are off.

Warning! Make sure to take off the primary inspection cover when removing the primary cover. There are two long screws that hold the cover on. You will damage the cover if you force it with the screws in position! Also, there are two gaskets on the back of the primary cover, called "tower gaskets" these are on those primary chain inspection cover longer screws. Make sure the gaskets are still on the cover before reinstalling the large primary cover. I tried to get new ones from Harley and they didn't know what I was talking about but said use the old ones. You will see them specified in the manual.

Make sure to tighten all screws in the sequence indicated in the manual. I did the trans, the primary and engine oil and had no leaks. That was a happy event.

By the way the V&H pipes sound fantastic! I have not put on the SE air cleaner yet or installed the fuelpak but I noticed a big difference in power and performance as compared to stock. I have the SEAC and Fuelpak and thats the next step.

Good luck with your service. Don't forget to grease the steering head!

 

Everything I've added to my bike so far has been H-D (chrome stuff mostly, light visors, tank panel, luggage rack, engine/bag guards, wind deflectors, grips). The only things from others are a studded windshield bag ($17.00) from some web site, bag bones saddle bag stiffener (long edge of lid only-about $50.00) from bagbones.com and chrome licence plate frame ($7.00) from Wal-Mart. I also bought the secondary drive belt tension checking tool, but I haven't tried to use it yet (H-D #40006-85).

Enjoy and ride safe.