Handle bars uneven while riding straight : FLSTFI
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 8
From: Powder Springs, GA
Or if you want to completely get rid of any possible movement put in solid bushings. That is what I always run. Plus they are cheaper. And you don't notice any extra vibration with these balance motors. Now my old evo chopper was solid and THAT had vibration like crazy!!
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: USA
Those are all good answers that are listed.
One other thing to check is the rear wheel alignment. Even with the slightest misalignment you will have to compensate with the handle bars to have the bike go straight down the road. This is called Dog Tracking. Slight misalignment amounts may not effect the drive-ability of the bike only handle bar placement.
Example, if the rear wheel is pointing to the left (looking from behind the bike) you will have to compensate with the bars to the left going down the road.
Again this is just a possibility. I would first check where the belt is riding in the rear pulley to see if it is not off to one side excessively. You can also check by putting know long straight edges (like a couple of long levels) along side the rear wheel and see how it lines up to the front wheel. (should be even on both side of the front wheel when the bars are straight ahead)
This is just food for thought.
The HD shop manual shows how to check this in other ways.
One other thing to check is the rear wheel alignment. Even with the slightest misalignment you will have to compensate with the handle bars to have the bike go straight down the road. This is called Dog Tracking. Slight misalignment amounts may not effect the drive-ability of the bike only handle bar placement.
Example, if the rear wheel is pointing to the left (looking from behind the bike) you will have to compensate with the bars to the left going down the road.
Again this is just a possibility. I would first check where the belt is riding in the rear pulley to see if it is not off to one side excessively. You can also check by putting know long straight edges (like a couple of long levels) along side the rear wheel and see how it lines up to the front wheel. (should be even on both side of the front wheel when the bars are straight ahead)
This is just food for thought.
The HD shop manual shows how to check this in other ways.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 189
From: Newcastle, Ca.
Those are all good answers that are listed.
One other thing to check is the rear wheel alignment. Even with the slightest misalignment you will have to compensate with the handle bars to have the bike go straight down the road. This is called Dog Tracking. Slight misalignment amounts may not effect the drive-ability of the bike only handle bar placement.
Example, if the rear wheel is pointing to the left (looking from behind the bike) you will have to compensate with the bars to the left going down the road.
Again this is just a possibility. I would first check where the belt is riding in the rear pulley to see if it is not off to one side excessively. You can also check by putting know long straight edges (like a couple of long levels) along side the rear wheel and see how it lines up to the front wheel. (should be even on both side of the front wheel when the bars are straight ahead)
This is just food for thought.
The HD shop manual shows how to check this in other ways.
One other thing to check is the rear wheel alignment. Even with the slightest misalignment you will have to compensate with the handle bars to have the bike go straight down the road. This is called Dog Tracking. Slight misalignment amounts may not effect the drive-ability of the bike only handle bar placement.
Example, if the rear wheel is pointing to the left (looking from behind the bike) you will have to compensate with the bars to the left going down the road.
Again this is just a possibility. I would first check where the belt is riding in the rear pulley to see if it is not off to one side excessively. You can also check by putting know long straight edges (like a couple of long levels) along side the rear wheel and see how it lines up to the front wheel. (should be even on both side of the front wheel when the bars are straight ahead)
This is just food for thought.
The HD shop manual shows how to check this in other ways.
After installing new wheels and rear tire I just did all this. A couple things, just because your belt is centered in the pulley does not mean your tires are parallel and your bike will track straight. A simple test for tracking is to get the bike up to speed, say 50-60 mph, and let go of the bars. If your bike goes straight, the tires are aligned. If it pulls to either side, then you will need to adjust the axle accordingly. When tracking correctly, the tires will wear longer and the bike turns equally easy in both directions in twisties.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 19,364
Likes: 40
From: Los Angeles, CA
I would loosen the riser bolts and put the front wheel in a corner. Push on the bars until they are straight. Tighten everything back up and go for a ride. that should take care of it. It is usually the simpler things with this problem. Drew
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: USA
Good suggestion.
After installing new wheels and rear tire I just did all this. A couple things, just because your belt is centered in the pulley does not mean your tires are parallel and your bike will track straight. A simple test for tracking is to get the bike up to speed, say 50-60 mph, and let go of the bars. If your bike goes straight, the tires are aligned. If it pulls to either side, then you will need to adjust the axle accordingly. When tracking correctly, the tires will wear longer and the bike turns equally easy in both directions in twisties.
After installing new wheels and rear tire I just did all this. A couple things, just because your belt is centered in the pulley does not mean your tires are parallel and your bike will track straight. A simple test for tracking is to get the bike up to speed, say 50-60 mph, and let go of the bars. If your bike goes straight, the tires are aligned. If it pulls to either side, then you will need to adjust the axle accordingly. When tracking correctly, the tires will wear longer and the bike turns equally easy in both directions in twisties.
As I said before all the info here is GOOD and is all to be considered to get the bars as straight as possible.
I realize that the belt centering is not 100% foolproof but is just one thing to look at.
Letting go of the bars at 50-60 mph should be done with the cruise on or the throttle friction adjusted to hold the bike at a steady speed, not decelerating or accelerating. Accelerating could exagerate the wheel alignment one way and decelerating could exagerate the other way.
This info might be considdered as nit picking, but again it is just to get people thinking in other areas as to bar alignment.
good luck all and ride safe.
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