TC88 cam install help
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 486
Likes: 41
From: north jersey
TC88 cam install help
hoping someone can help me out here installing andrews tw26a chain drive cams in my '02 fxst.
i did the oven/freezer method for the cam removal & install.
took the cam plate to 400 degrees for the install.
1st question
will the heat from the removal/install compromise the oil pressure release valve spring?
i did not remove the roll pin to inspect. i have the cam plate mounted now, & wondering if i should pull it back off & replace the spring & inspect the valve.
2nd question
is it normal to have an extra thrust washer from andrews? i do.
i installed the andrews pretty much the same as the oem cam. with the extra thrust washer, my sprocket alignment would be way out. so i can only assume i have it assembled correctly.
3rd question
why the o-ring on the andrews cam & not one on the oem cam? do i run the o-ring?
i appreciate any help here. i tore this thing down in february to replace the tensioners. between lack of time, waiting for parts & trying to learn what i need to know, it's been waaaay too long since i rode the bike.
i did the oven/freezer method for the cam removal & install.
took the cam plate to 400 degrees for the install.
1st question
will the heat from the removal/install compromise the oil pressure release valve spring?
i did not remove the roll pin to inspect. i have the cam plate mounted now, & wondering if i should pull it back off & replace the spring & inspect the valve.
2nd question
is it normal to have an extra thrust washer from andrews? i do.
i installed the andrews pretty much the same as the oem cam. with the extra thrust washer, my sprocket alignment would be way out. so i can only assume i have it assembled correctly.
3rd question
why the o-ring on the andrews cam & not one on the oem cam? do i run the o-ring?
i appreciate any help here. i tore this thing down in february to replace the tensioners. between lack of time, waiting for parts & trying to learn what i need to know, it's been waaaay too long since i rode the bike.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 189
From: Newcastle, Ca.
If you are concerned about the spring, get a new one. It could not cost more than a dollar or two. Some replace the spring with the Baisley spring to increase oil pressure. Some have complained about too much pressure and removed it. Have read you can remove pin and spring when cam plate is installed. As long as the valve does not look worn and moves freely, its ok.
Do not remember an extra washer - could have been one though, its been awhile since I installed the cams. I just used the spacer from the old cam setup. Gear/cam alignment was correct. The manual shows you how to check this. The cams had a race pressed on with a washer, and the o'ring. I left the o'ring on after speaking with Andrews. Like this one
http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/Produ...results=10&No=
Do not remember an extra washer - could have been one though, its been awhile since I installed the cams. I just used the spacer from the old cam setup. Gear/cam alignment was correct. The manual shows you how to check this. The cams had a race pressed on with a washer, and the o'ring. I left the o'ring on after speaking with Andrews. Like this one
http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/Produ...results=10&No=
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 486
Likes: 41
From: north jersey
If you are concerned about the spring, get a new one. It could not cost more than a dollar or two. Some replace the spring with the Baisley spring to increase oil pressure. Some have complained about too much pressure and removed it. Have read you can remove pin and spring when cam plate is installed. As long as the valve does not look worn and moves freely, its ok.
Do not remember an extra washer - could have been one though, its been awhile since I installed the cams. I just used the spacer from the old cam setup. Gear/cam alignment was correct. The manual shows you how to check this. The cams had a race pressed on with a washer, and the o'ring. I left the o'ring on after speaking with Andrews. Like this one
http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/Produ...results=10&No=
Do not remember an extra washer - could have been one though, its been awhile since I installed the cams. I just used the spacer from the old cam setup. Gear/cam alignment was correct. The manual shows you how to check this. The cams had a race pressed on with a washer, and the o'ring. I left the o'ring on after speaking with Andrews. Like this one
http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/Produ...results=10&No=
local dealership didn't have the spring, or i would have picked one up yesterday & just installed it. got the roll pin & the cam sprocket spacer i needed though.
i'll try another dealer for the spring or buy online & get it replaced for piece of mind.
anyone else do the oven/freezer thing & leave the valve & spring in the plate? in hind sight i should have removed it prior baking.
i've read a lot about the baisley or LMN springs. didn't really think i needed it.
cool - i'll leave the o-ring on the cam.
i was curious why there's not one on the oem cam. and service manual mentions the o-ring will only be present if a dealer worked on the cam plate - something like that anyway...
i'll drop andrews an email about the extra thrust washer for kicks.
thanks again
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 189
From: Newcastle, Ca.
The o'ring on the cam is used if the Andrews gear is installed rather than the oem gear. When the Andrews gear is used so are extra washers. The o'ring keps the washer centered on the cam, keeps them from floating/falling into the space that the o'ring fills. In other words, do not worry about the o'ring. May be the thrust washer is for the Andrews Gear, although that should be part of the gear package and I believe it has a couple of washers...
Others may disagree, imo, you do not need the Baisley spring.
I also did the oven method, cant remember if the spring and relief valve were left in the cam plate or not. I do remember taking them out to check. I would also install a new one. Things like that make me loose sleep. lol
Others may disagree, imo, you do not need the Baisley spring.
I also did the oven method, cant remember if the spring and relief valve were left in the cam plate or not. I do remember taking them out to check. I would also install a new one. Things like that make me loose sleep. lol
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
I did my cams using the oven method did not take spring out. But I did remove the inspection plug at the top of the cam plate. It has an o-ring that can be damaged in the oven.
I did mine at 350 degrees for ten minutes.
I did mine at 350 degrees for ten minutes.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 486
Likes: 41
From: north jersey
i finally got her together today and got to take a test ride. everything seems cool.
no dealers had the oil pressure releive valve spring. but since i bought a new roll pin & retaining ring for the tensioner i pulled it out & inspected it before assembly.
the spring looked fine. it sprung out after removing the roll pin. no specs for it in the manual, so i hoped for the best & popped it back in.
i left the o-ring on the end of the cam.
went from a .307 cam sprocket spacer to a .317 for pretty much perfect sprocket alignment. extra thrust washer as provided by andrews.
one thing that had me worried was all my old lifters had the oil hole facing outboard. i faced the holes inboard on the new lifters i installed per the service manual.
new tensioners, b148 inner bearings, tw26a cams, gaskets, o-rings, throttle cables, and a bunch of other maintance parts pend. install. i should be good for a while...
thanks to the forum. i learned a lot from searching & asking a few questions
no dealers had the oil pressure releive valve spring. but since i bought a new roll pin & retaining ring for the tensioner i pulled it out & inspected it before assembly.
the spring looked fine. it sprung out after removing the roll pin. no specs for it in the manual, so i hoped for the best & popped it back in.
i left the o-ring on the end of the cam.
went from a .307 cam sprocket spacer to a .317 for pretty much perfect sprocket alignment. extra thrust washer as provided by andrews.
one thing that had me worried was all my old lifters had the oil hole facing outboard. i faced the holes inboard on the new lifters i installed per the service manual.
new tensioners, b148 inner bearings, tw26a cams, gaskets, o-rings, throttle cables, and a bunch of other maintance parts pend. install. i should be good for a while...
thanks to the forum. i learned a lot from searching & asking a few questions
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 486
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From: north jersey
i still replaces it with a new one though.
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