adjusting softail shock
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: South Wales, UK
adjusting softail shock
hi,
I'm going to the Isle of Man for the TT in early June with a friend onboard. As we are both 17 or 18 stone men, and the bike will have some camping gear, I'd like to ask the forums advice on whether I will need to adjust the shock in advance....?
I've never loaded the bike up so much before and until he gets on the back with all the gear I wont know whether its needed(if it is - my next issue is to get a bike lift and then the specialised shock adjusting tool - all of which may be unnnecessary if you think its unlikely...
thanks in advance
Matt
I'm going to the Isle of Man for the TT in early June with a friend onboard. As we are both 17 or 18 stone men, and the bike will have some camping gear, I'd like to ask the forums advice on whether I will need to adjust the shock in advance....?
I've never loaded the bike up so much before and until he gets on the back with all the gear I wont know whether its needed(if it is - my next issue is to get a bike lift and then the specialised shock adjusting tool - all of which may be unnnecessary if you think its unlikely...
thanks in advance
Matt
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,718
Likes: 11
From: Punta Gorda,FL
You will need to set the shock to the firmest setting. They come from the factory at the softest setting. For some reason Harley puts loctite on the threads, so you may have to use a heat gun to loosen the loctite, in order to back off the retention nuts.
Once the nuts are backed off you should be able to turn the shocks a little over 4 complete turns. You need to make sure the shocks are both set identically. Take some light colored paint and put a forward/aft stripe on the bottom of each shock, before you begin turning them.
Now you will be able to count how many turns you put on each shock.
I cut down the handle of a 1-1/16" open end wrench, so it was about 4" long and bought the spanner wrench at the dealer for about $5.
My SE Fat Boy is lowered in the rear and I can still adjust the shocks while the bike is on the jiffy stand.
You also need to put 40psi in the rear tire when riding 2 up.
Good luck.
Tom
Once the nuts are backed off you should be able to turn the shocks a little over 4 complete turns. You need to make sure the shocks are both set identically. Take some light colored paint and put a forward/aft stripe on the bottom of each shock, before you begin turning them.
Now you will be able to count how many turns you put on each shock.
I cut down the handle of a 1-1/16" open end wrench, so it was about 4" long and bought the spanner wrench at the dealer for about $5.
My SE Fat Boy is lowered in the rear and I can still adjust the shocks while the bike is on the jiffy stand.
You also need to put 40psi in the rear tire when riding 2 up.
Good luck.
Tom
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 356
Likes: 2
From: Godfrey, IL
You'll need a 3/4 inch wrench and the adjusting tool ($12 USD) from the harley dealer. Adjust it till there are no threads showing between the locking nut and the plate. This way will ride like crap if your solo but will ride excellent with 2 up. Good luck, let me know if you have any issues i just did mine last week
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 160
Likes: 1
From: Washington State
You will need to set the shock to the firmest setting. They come from the factory at the softest setting. For some reason Harley puts loctite on the threads, so you may have to use a heat gun to loosen the loctite, in order to back off the retention nuts.
Once the nuts are backed off you should be able to turn the shocks a little over 4 complete turns. You need to make sure the shocks are both set identically. Take some light colored paint and put a forward/aft stripe on the bottom of each shock, before you begin turning them.
Now you will be able to count how many turns you put on each shock.
I cut down the handle of a 1-1/16" open end wrench, so it was about 4" long and bought the spanner wrench at the dealer for about $5.
My SE Fat Boy is lowered in the rear and I can still adjust the shocks while the bike is on the jiffy stand.
You also need to put 40psi in the rear tire when riding 2 up.
Good luck.
Tom
Once the nuts are backed off you should be able to turn the shocks a little over 4 complete turns. You need to make sure the shocks are both set identically. Take some light colored paint and put a forward/aft stripe on the bottom of each shock, before you begin turning them.
Now you will be able to count how many turns you put on each shock.
I cut down the handle of a 1-1/16" open end wrench, so it was about 4" long and bought the spanner wrench at the dealer for about $5.
My SE Fat Boy is lowered in the rear and I can still adjust the shocks while the bike is on the jiffy stand.
You also need to put 40psi in the rear tire when riding 2 up.
Good luck.
Tom
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 188
From: Newcastle, Ca.
You will need a Stones to Pounds conversion program...
Tools:
- Shock spanner wrench
- 1 1/16 open end wrench
- White paint pen
Parts:
- Adjustable shock (Stock, Long or with Lowering Kit).
Instructions:
1. Determine whether your suspension is too stiff or too soft for your liking. Take into consideration whether or not you will be riding solo or 2-up most of the time.
2. With a white paint pen, put a mark on the face of your adjuster plate at the 6 o’clock position. This will be your starting position. Do this to both shocks
3. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, break the adjuster nut free from the adjuster plate by turning the nut counterclockwise
If you are adjusting for a heavier weight (stiffer ride):
A. Continue to turn the adjuster nut counterclockwise (the nut will move towards the front of the bike) until it stops.
B. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate counterclockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
C. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
D. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
If you are adjusting for a lighter weight (softer ride) :
A. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
B. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
C. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
Note: - When you turn the adjuster nut - only the adjuster nut should turn.
- When you turn the front nut - only the front nut should turn.
- When you turn the adjuster plate - the canister might turn too. Some people find it easier to turn the adjuster plate and the canister at the same time.
- If the canister turns or not - it doesn't matter - the canister does not affect the outcome.
There are a limited number of threads. Count the number of threads visible
Use the "rule of thumb" chart below:
- 4 threads = Preloaded for a softest spring (<180 lbs)
- 3 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (181-237 lbs)
- 2 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (238-293 lbs)
- 1 threads = Preloaded for a stiffer spring (294-349 lbs)
- 0 threads = Preloaded for a stiffest spring (>350 lbs)
Tools:
- Shock spanner wrench
- 1 1/16 open end wrench
- White paint pen
Parts:
- Adjustable shock (Stock, Long or with Lowering Kit).
Instructions:
1. Determine whether your suspension is too stiff or too soft for your liking. Take into consideration whether or not you will be riding solo or 2-up most of the time.
2. With a white paint pen, put a mark on the face of your adjuster plate at the 6 o’clock position. This will be your starting position. Do this to both shocks
3. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, break the adjuster nut free from the adjuster plate by turning the nut counterclockwise
If you are adjusting for a heavier weight (stiffer ride):
A. Continue to turn the adjuster nut counterclockwise (the nut will move towards the front of the bike) until it stops.
B. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate counterclockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
C. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
D. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
If you are adjusting for a lighter weight (softer ride) :
A. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 o’clock position.
B. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner, tighten the adjuster nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
C. Now repeat the exact process with the other shock.
Note: - When you turn the adjuster nut - only the adjuster nut should turn.
- When you turn the front nut - only the front nut should turn.
- When you turn the adjuster plate - the canister might turn too. Some people find it easier to turn the adjuster plate and the canister at the same time.
- If the canister turns or not - it doesn't matter - the canister does not affect the outcome.
There are a limited number of threads. Count the number of threads visible
Use the "rule of thumb" chart below:
- 4 threads = Preloaded for a softest spring (<180 lbs)
- 3 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (181-237 lbs)
- 2 threads = Preloaded for a softer spring (238-293 lbs)
- 1 threads = Preloaded for a stiffer spring (294-349 lbs)
- 0 threads = Preloaded for a stiffest spring (>350 lbs)
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
You should buy a manual for your bike when you buy the adjusting tool......you do need to make sure you adjust them evenly.....it can cause handling issues if you don't.....and I am shocked that only one person commented on the two men part....don't see that much here......actually not at all....