softtail compensator
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
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From: TOAK western branch
Yep. the spring washers and basket are under rated for the 96" motors. I dont know if thats your problem but if it is their is "to my knowledge" no aftermarket compensator. If you do end up replacing it I would highly recomend the SE comp. I got mine through zanuttii's for 209 no tax no shipping. took 5 days to get it. Do some searching on this site for the SE compensator and you will get tons of info and pics and a few video's too. Good luck.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
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softtail compensator
Thanks for the quick response, This has been a problem for over a year. I have the street slammer bars and I used the poly mounts,big mistake!!!! This thing vibrated and buzzed very bad so I replaced the poly mounts with the original rubber mounts and that corrected the problem. I was just curious if the compensator is causing the vibrtion in my peg at 65-70 mph when I twist the throttle to speed up.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
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From: TOAK western branch
Mine would vibrate at 75+ but if I cluched it and twisted the throtle it would go away for a few miles then it was back. Then I changed my primary oil and It looked like a metalc milkshake and it was a toasted compensator. If you ever get the chance to change it I would. After changing it the start up clunk went away changing gears is very smooth now plus piece of mind. Good job not chasing the vibration by throwing money at it but doing some good investigation. As theis 96" get more miles im sure their will be more comp issues.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
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softtail compensator
I was running Amsol 20w-50 in the primary and the severe 75-90 in the tranny,I just did an oil change and went with the formula + in the primary and Belray 85-145 in the tranny and it fills a lot better however I am still getting the vibration. I notice that whenever it starts I can pull in the clutch and it smooths out. Really thinking about a Street Glide!!!
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
Hate to bring it up but the '07's were the first year for the new crank source and those models have a high incidence of cranks with too much runout from the factory and cranks that tweaked easily. '07 was the year the crank rounout spec for warranty purposes went from .003" to .012". I gotta tell ya that a crank with runout up around .006"-.008" will shake the fillings out of your teeth on a long ride.
Check your runout just to elminate runout as a possible cause. My brother had a vibration problem on his '05 FXST that drove us nuts for weeks. We finally found a rock wedged between the engine case and the frame; removed rock, problem solved.
Good luck.
Check your runout just to elminate runout as a possible cause. My brother had a vibration problem on his '05 FXST that drove us nuts for weeks. We finally found a rock wedged between the engine case and the frame; removed rock, problem solved.
Good luck.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: redbank new Jersey
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Joined: May 2007
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From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
I read and seen articles about the comp for 4yrs now.
the biggest and usually problem from the comp is the clunking on start up and or rod sounding knock while under power,, haven't ever seen one that said it cause a viberation.??
Several fixes for this now, washers, milling the bolt, and the one I used was have the dyno tech remove timing at 0 rmps.. that took care of the startup clunk in mine...
here one article I found on the comp...
================================
Tip Tools Display Modes
Compensator Nut Re Torque
Published by glider (Community Liaison)
Published date: Aug 27th, 2007
You'll know when the compensator nut loosens up when you hear a knocking like a bad rod in the engine mostly at idle and when starting off.
There was some problems with the nut bottoming out before the torque was reached on the compensator nut. This was mostly on 03 and later bikes.
It can be remedied by using a shim or milling the nut itself.
The shim for the compensator assembly is Part#24033-70. It's .090 and keeps the compensator nut from bottoming out before the proper torque is reached. Red locktite after a thorough cleaning and get the new tightening sequence instead of the torquing procedure you are using now.
The amount to cut off the nut if you go this route is 0.030" if you are milling the compensator nut (30 thousandths of an inch) ~ 1/32"
Attachment 4214
the biggest and usually problem from the comp is the clunking on start up and or rod sounding knock while under power,, haven't ever seen one that said it cause a viberation.??
Several fixes for this now, washers, milling the bolt, and the one I used was have the dyno tech remove timing at 0 rmps.. that took care of the startup clunk in mine...
here one article I found on the comp...
================================
Tip Tools Display Modes
Compensator Nut Re Torque
Published by glider (Community Liaison)
Published date: Aug 27th, 2007
You'll know when the compensator nut loosens up when you hear a knocking like a bad rod in the engine mostly at idle and when starting off.
There was some problems with the nut bottoming out before the torque was reached on the compensator nut. This was mostly on 03 and later bikes.
It can be remedied by using a shim or milling the nut itself.
The shim for the compensator assembly is Part#24033-70. It's .090 and keeps the compensator nut from bottoming out before the proper torque is reached. Red locktite after a thorough cleaning and get the new tightening sequence instead of the torquing procedure you are using now.
The amount to cut off the nut if you go this route is 0.030" if you are milling the compensator nut (30 thousandths of an inch) ~ 1/32"
Attachment 4214
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1
From: Desert S. West
I was running Amsol 20w-50 in the primary and the severe 75-90 in the tranny,I just did an oil change and went with the formula + in the primary and Belray 85-145 in the tranny and it fills a lot better however I am still getting the vibration. I notice that whenever it starts I can pull in the clutch and it smooths out. Really thinking about a Street Glide!!!
I had a similar vibration and found the auto primary chain tensioner wasn't so auto. I pulled the cover and pushed the wedge in a notch and that fixed it at that time. There's a SOHB tensioner that fixes that problem permanently.
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