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Checked the temps on my rotors with the infared thermometer - Fronts were between 94-96 degrees F. Rear was 165 - 173 degrees F. I'm figuring, the front rotors are out in the open getting blasted by a lot of air, while the rear is pretty well enclosed between the bags, exhaust, and frame. As long as I don't have to grab on to it, I'll leave it as is.
If its extremely hot it may be the caliper is dragging or in need of a rebuild or replacement, I had a rear rotor that was warped a little and it generated a lot of extra heat, I finally figured something was wrong and jacked the bike up and put it in gear and watched it wobble. I replaced the warped rotor with a floating rotor (also the pads with organic ones) and now my brakes run very very cool. You can actually touch the rotors without getting burned after I ride for awhile if I don't brake hard.
One other thing to check is where the brake caliper rides on the swingarm it has free movement, and no corrosion or debris where they mate up.
Last edited by Rockyriver; Jul 8, 2010 at 05:44 PM.
If you can´t hear the pads rubbing against the rotor at low speeds, I´d say you're ok. The discs heat up normally at use. Heck! have you touched your car's rotors after rush hour???
I have a 2003 Fat Boy. The rear rotor is getting very hot yet the brakes still work. Everything seems lined up and moving freely. I have bled the brake line 3 times to check for air bubbles.
Any ideas on what to do next?
Larry
i have a 1999 electraglide and it has dual single piston front brakes. one side was getting really hot even if i didnt use the brake. the problem was the pad was dragging because the one pin on the caliper was sticking, i greased it and that fixed the problem.
one pad, usually the inside, is going to make very slight contact with the rotor to some degree even if you aren't applying the brake....it's normal...it has to be that way in order for the brakes to be as responsive as they are...it's the same way with cars
as a result, you're gonna get heat because of the friction
make sure you don't have too much fluid in the resevoir, that wont allow the pads to retract as the fluid has no place to go, if thats ok, I'd say its ok
They should get hot from use, it friction. Test this. Take the bike for a ride, and carefully, use only the front brake and downshift. Ride for 5-10 miles, then feel your rear rotor, should be cool. Otherwise it is pads worn, dragging, or alignment.
That happened to me last year (extremely hot rotor) turned out it was the inner lower caliper piston stuck. On the 4 piston caliper the lower inner is the only one that is hard to see when checking. The $12 rebuild kit fixed everything.
They get hot with normal breaking. To check if its rubbing too much and pads are not releasing correctly, lift the bike up right after riding, put bike in neutral and spin rear wheel. It should spin ~1 1/2+ times. If not, you need to clean pistons, pad pins, lube pins...
Ever since my bike was new I haven't been able to spin the rear wheel when its up on the jack. It takes a good bit of force just to spin it to clean the whitewalls.
I had the same problem when I got a flat, the dealer changed the flat but on the way home, the breaks started to smell bad. I looked down and saw that the rotor was now a brownish color from the rub. I took it back and they put new rotors and pads on and same thing. The dealer then put a whole new rear break system on and it has been fine since. They tore everything down and couldn't find a problem with it so I don't know what caused it.
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