whats up guys?I have a 04 softail standard,I just put on a arlen ness big sucker air cleaner and snub nose drag pipes,with no baffles,Im wanting to change the jet in the carb not sure what size,I called the local dealership they want 50 bucks for 3 runs on the dyno which isnt to bad but they want 240 to change the jet and adjust the carb way to much IMO.So i was hoping you guys could tell me what size jet i need and how many turns out on the screw so i can do it myself?
THANKS in advance,

 

original carb or super G or E?

 

If it is a stock carb have you already drilled for the idle mixture screw? Also best way to tell on the jets (not sure if you mean slow or fast jet) is to take it out and look at the number and then go from there. There is no real set forumla. If it was mine and the carb was stock I would up the slow and fast jet one drill the slide and then set the screw out about 2-3 turns. Run it till it is hot then find the sweet spot on the idle mixture. If the carb is an S&S then it is even easier.

 

On a stock CV carb I would start with a 46 slow 185 main and a Sporty needle. 2 1/2-3 turns on the mixture screw. Get it hot before making final adjustments. This will get you real close. A 46 slow jet might be a little hard to find as it's not one that all dealers stock. Jetting is not set in stone as all bikes are different. You have to find out what works for you. I run a 48 slow 190 main and a Sporty needle. It is a little rich but I run in 100+ temps and my bike never misses a beat. Starts great and very little warm up. I also get 40 mpg and my bike runs nice and cool. My heads have been ported which helps a great deal.

 

Dang it....Forgot about the needle.

One option is to get a dyno jet kit. They are pricey but come with most of what you need and instructions. However they do not come with a new slow jet anymore so you would have to buy that at the stealer. I guess the EPA has gotten to them as well.

 

Just my opinion (if you don't like it or one of your buds has a better idea you can ignore).

As mentioned, carefully drill out the idle mixture screw plug. Turn idle mixture screw clockwise to LIGHTLY seat (remember you are working upside down). Turn idle mixture screw out 1.5 to 1.75 turns as a starting point.

I would skip spending the money on a new needle, and see if you can shim it for the desired results. Buy a few SS 3mm washers at the hardware store. Start with 1 washer and add as needed. Washers go between part #228 in the diagram and the diaphragm. This will fatten up the mid-range nicely.

You will probably want to go down a size on the main jet. This is where your friends will give you advice otherwise. Try it, you'll like it.

Put the carb together and warm the engine. Set the idle to 1000-1100 rpm. Careful not to burn youreself, slowly turn the idle mixture screw in then out 1/2 turn. Leave the needle where the engine runs best (fastest). Readjust idle.

 

Not to hijack here but why do you mention down a size on the main? I only ask because I have the ever so slightest hesitation at about 60-70MPH when it hit it hard. I have been suspecting too rich but have been too lazy to pull the carb yet again.

Also when you put that diaphram back in (part 342 above). Make certain it is properly set in that carb body groove before you put the top back on.

 

I have an old Sun EGA machine that I bought at a garage sale. It's my $10 dyno. I don't get a fancy chart but get the CO and the hydrocarbons in the sweet spot and the bike runs great.

The only place a stock HD is fat is at the top. Short drag pipes are very restrictive. Because it's lean as a snake at the bottom and the middle you should richen it up there. Lean it a step at the top and it will run out better and give you 3-5 mpg more on the highway.

The problem you describe may be more an accel pump issue. Check the manual for details on how to check and adjust for the right flow.

 

here is a good link for carb stuff
http://www.harley-performance.com/index.html

 

Short drag pipes are impossiable to tune except for top end.