95 or 103
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 91
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From: Colorado Springs
95 or 103
What I have '05 Heritage fuel injected, with SE slip-ons and A/C I want more "seat of the pants" torque. Not interested in dyno numbers, just want to put a bigger smile on my face. So, I am looking for proven performance goups (cams, heads,pistons, programming etc.) I don't want any "i think" or "i heard" or "if I" packages. Just "I've got and it works" groups.
I may be willing to spend the extra to go to the 103 but, don't really want to get to the point where I need, compression release or starter, new clutch, vibrates too much, lost 30% fuel mileage or need to spend hours on the dyno tuning it. Needs to be streetable and reliable. Powerband in the 1000-3000 area
All proven suggestions welcome.
My first post and look forward to chatting with you guys and gals.
I may be willing to spend the extra to go to the 103 but, don't really want to get to the point where I need, compression release or starter, new clutch, vibrates too much, lost 30% fuel mileage or need to spend hours on the dyno tuning it. Needs to be streetable and reliable. Powerband in the 1000-3000 area
All proven suggestions welcome.
My first post and look forward to chatting with you guys and gals.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 259
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City, MO
I went 95" great power easy on the the drive train. 40-45mpg and easy to lug around town. I do not lug it though going 40-45mph in 5th is not a good idea with a built motor or a stock motor. the 95" isnt enough for me though im building a 107 this week, should be a ripper, once you have power youll wonder why you went without! a set of cams, street port, pistons and jugs would definitely provide you with what you want.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 6
From: Edmond, Ok
Power is a very addictive drug. If I were in your shoes, I'd talk to a professional builder, and explain to them exactly what you're looking for. Where do you want you power to be? What kind of riding to you do ( solo, 2 up, touring, mountains, ect). They can suggest the right parts to use. I've never built a 95" or 98" for that matter. I started with a 96", and built to a 103", changed some parts, and eventually ended up at my 113".
I was recently considering another bike ('05 Road King). I called my trusted parts supplier (Dave at JD's Cycleworks) for ideas on a build. He suggested Baisley Super Stock heads, TMan 525 Cams, bore stock cylinders to 95", Adjustable pushrods. You won't need a new clutch, but you should add the SE Heavy Duty spring. Hope this helps.
I was recently considering another bike ('05 Road King). I called my trusted parts supplier (Dave at JD's Cycleworks) for ideas on a build. He suggested Baisley Super Stock heads, TMan 525 Cams, bore stock cylinders to 95", Adjustable pushrods. You won't need a new clutch, but you should add the SE Heavy Duty spring. Hope this helps.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,156
Likes: 41
From: So Cal
I ride a 05Fatboy, its the Annv Model and came from the factory with a 95 ci Stage 1kit (pistons, cyl, A/C, clutch spring) It ran stronger than a stock 88 but not much. I added pipes, fuel management (originally a SERT but now have a Fuel Moto tuner thats basically a PClll)and it woke up a lot. But the addition of cams was the single biggest change , when I installed the SE 204 cams I gained the single biggest change in Hp.
My suggestion if you want a solid , reliable 90 - 100 hp and 90 - 100 Tq every day rider go with the 95 Stage 2 kit ( pistons, cyl, cams, clutch spring, tuner, AC, pipes) selecting the kit is a matter of choice there are a lot of good builders out there. I went with as much HD stuff as possible for easy access, and dealer support and Im very happy with the Se 204 cams, good pwer from idle up strong mid range and still pulls to redline.
My suggestion if you want a solid , reliable 90 - 100 hp and 90 - 100 Tq every day rider go with the 95 Stage 2 kit ( pistons, cyl, cams, clutch spring, tuner, AC, pipes) selecting the kit is a matter of choice there are a lot of good builders out there. I went with as much HD stuff as possible for easy access, and dealer support and Im very happy with the Se 204 cams, good pwer from idle up strong mid range and still pulls to redline.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 729
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
i would go with a 95" over a 103" you're going to spend a lot more money on the 103 and not gain a lot more than you can get it a 95". you build you motor around the cams. i would read up on on the cam and then go from there. they are going to tell you have compression they run best at and what rpm. i've for s&s 585 gear drive cams in mine (alot of people don't like them, say i should have gone with woods or something along that line, but i don't have a problem with them), the only thing about my cams is that they really don't throw you back until about 2500 rpm then they really start to scream. most people want them to kick in alittle lower.
if you know anyone with a 95" ask them if you can ride it. there is a really big difference between it and an 88". after my 95" right now i don't think i could go back to riding a stock bike.
also i would check around and see what your local tuners perfer to tune with. i've got 2 pretty good tuners around me and they both perfer SERT. so that is what i bought. once you have it tuned if you change anything at all it's going to throw off the tune. i changed me pipes and my AFR went all over the place. so i plan on leaving everything how it is now just so i don't have to pay all the money to have it tuned again. hope i helped some.
if you know anyone with a 95" ask them if you can ride it. there is a really big difference between it and an 88". after my 95" right now i don't think i could go back to riding a stock bike.
also i would check around and see what your local tuners perfer to tune with. i've got 2 pretty good tuners around me and they both perfer SERT. so that is what i bought. once you have it tuned if you change anything at all it's going to throw off the tune. i changed me pipes and my AFR went all over the place. so i plan on leaving everything how it is now just so i don't have to pay all the money to have it tuned again. hope i helped some.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 522
Likes: 2
From: Bloomington Indiana
A 95 and a 103 are totally different. A 95 has a 4" stroke and a 103 has a 4-3/8 stroke. That's alot of difference. The longer the stroke the more leverage it has. Torque that is. The 96 motors don't seem to perform much better than the 88 motors but that's because of all the EPA bull that happens a properly set up 96 is quite a bit stronger than a 95 that's my 2 cents Nd it may not be worth that much to you. Good luck on your build
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 204
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From: Kansas
I've got a fully built 103 in my Deuce with all Harley parts. I agree with the cam statement above. It depends on the type of riding your doing. I've got 258 cam in mine and it's a beast on the highway but that's where I do most of my riding. Worth every penny spent.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Colorado Springs
My riding is pretty mixed between highway and street. I don't do any long haul trips but of course don't want to be limited to any riding. I do like to ride in lower RPM's. I'm leaning toward a 103 but want to stay within the engines lower end and drivetrains capablities.
Any suggestions on a cam. By the way, I prefer to stick with HD parts.
Any suggestions on a cam. By the way, I prefer to stick with HD parts.
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 455
Likes: 2
I'm going to throw some fuel on the fire here and say that before you go drop $5,000 on engine upgrades that don't add to the resale or insurace value of your Harley you might consider a used sport bike for when you want to tear up the twisties. Just remember, all that money you put into your motor you will never get back if it gets stolen, goes skidding down the highway, or you decide to sell it. Another bike will hold some value and give you an alternative ride whenever you want.
