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Although the battery has a full charge as you say. How are the cranking amps of the battery? Even a new battery with a full charge that has little or no ability to hold up the cranking amps will also produce these problems...
I have had Wal-Mart motorcycle batteries new from the box that just wouldn't turn over a big bike..?! Just saying perhaps you battery may be at fault. Hence, when you "Jump" the bike with a different battery... Is the problems still there?
I have had Wal-Mart motorcycle batteries new from the box that just wouldn't turn over a big bike..?! Just saying perhaps you battery may be at fault. Hence, when you "Jump" the bike with a different battery... Is the problems still there?
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Effingham Co. GA
I have used two different batteries. The first one was an unsealed battery that ruined my saddle bag and corroded some of the metal on my bike. I switched to a sealed one from Wal-Mart that worked great for a week. Would a cell die that quick? When I "jumped" my bike it did the same thing. It engaged, but wouldn't turn the motor.
Can a starter loose "power" or does it just quit working?
Can a starter loose "power" or does it just quit working?
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Upstate New York
The fact that the solenoid throws strongly when you push the starter button tends to rule out the "low amperage" side of the starting circuit. This means that the ignition switch, circuit breakers, starter push button and starter relay appear to be functioning properly. This points us toward the "high current" side of the circuit. The starter motor requires a minimum amount of current to turn over the engine. A 1.2 Kwatt starter would draw a nominal current of 100 amps (Watts=volts X amps). With only 12 volts available to deliver this current, it doesn't take much in the way of corrosion to drop the available voltage below the minimum necessary.
First, check the battery. Charge it, then have it load tested, if possible, to rule it out as the source of your trouble. Next, check the battery cables (at both ends). Make sure they're clean and tight. If this doesn't help, the next place to look is the solenoid. If I remember correctly, '89 is the first year of the "unitized" starter motor. Remove the chrome end cover, disconnect the ground cable of the battery, then remove the solenoid end cover. It's the "5 sided" cover on the end of the motor. Remove the center plunger and check the condition of the copper contacts and copper washer on the plunger. If they're burned and/or eroded, that can be your problem. You can get a kit to replace them, but it will require removal of the starter to do it. If this doesn't work, it may be worn brushes or commutator. Given the age of the bike, at this point, I'd consider replacing the starter to eliminate that as a possibilty.
I've been through all of this with my '94 over and over again for the past 12 years.
Good luck.
First, check the battery. Charge it, then have it load tested, if possible, to rule it out as the source of your trouble. Next, check the battery cables (at both ends). Make sure they're clean and tight. If this doesn't help, the next place to look is the solenoid. If I remember correctly, '89 is the first year of the "unitized" starter motor. Remove the chrome end cover, disconnect the ground cable of the battery, then remove the solenoid end cover. It's the "5 sided" cover on the end of the motor. Remove the center plunger and check the condition of the copper contacts and copper washer on the plunger. If they're burned and/or eroded, that can be your problem. You can get a kit to replace them, but it will require removal of the starter to do it. If this doesn't work, it may be worn brushes or commutator. Given the age of the bike, at this point, I'd consider replacing the starter to eliminate that as a possibilty.
I've been through all of this with my '94 over and over again for the past 12 years.
Good luck.
I took the primary off yesterday, and bumped the starter. The jackshaft ingaged, but it wouldn't turn the motor. Acted like it didn't have enough power. Would that still be the starter clutch?
What is the shop charging you to replace the starter clutch? Are you going to a bigger starter? If so, what size?
What is the shop charging you to replace the starter clutch? Are you going to a bigger starter? If so, what size?
Getting a Baker 2kW starter since im pretty much just replaced everything important over the summer - I'll let ou know what the charges are once I know... bikes been in for three days no so should here from the shop tomorrow. Stay tuned...
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Effingham Co. GA
I took the starter to a starter repair shop. The guy showed me that one of the copper contacts that the plunger touches was worn out completely. He replaced them, and did a bench test. A $40 repair that saved me over $200!
Now that I have the bike apart, I am going to flush the oil tank and lines, and cover the lines with steel braiding.
Will VHT or BBQ paint withstand the heat if I painted my starter with it?
Now that I have the bike apart, I am going to flush the oil tank and lines, and cover the lines with steel braiding.
Will VHT or BBQ paint withstand the heat if I painted my starter with it?
Mine needed a whole new starter ofcourse but I was crazy to think I needed a 2kW. I ended up with a Motor Factory High Torque 1.4kW chrome starter, my shop only charged me $235 for the starter inc intsall. They also did my final Dyno tune to the new Mikuni 42 carb also on the house. $321 out the door with new oil+filter and all associated lubes & gaskets. Also with the tuning I got more HP & Torque 94Hp/109# Torque holy moly was it a fun ride home screamin over the bay bridge. Long stort short... glad we both got our bikes starting issues fixed
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From: Farmington ,MS
I had that problem...pulled the starter and carried it to a starter rebuild shop to get it tested. The problem turned out to be a through bolt had worn though the insulation on one of the coils...they reinsulated it...worked like new.
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