stock rear shocks..
I've been wanting to get some of the progressive 422's for a while, but I'm poor so that option has to wait. All I know is that when me and my wife (I'm 200, she's 140) get on the fatboy for a ride, it seems to sit WAY low and bottom out quite a bit. My father in law said that I need to increase the preload on the shocks, but I looked under there and couldn't see anyway possible to do this.
Is he crazy or am I just such a noob that I don't know where or how to adjust them?
Thanks
If you have your owner's manual it says which way to turn the shock to adjust them. You may need the spanner that inserts into the shock to turn it or I've been told it can be done by hand. Get a spanner wrench, (PN HD-94455-89) and then adjust the shocks to your desired setting.

Turn the adjuster plates out (toward the locknut) increases the spring preload to carry a heavier load.
Turning the adjuster plates in, (away from the locknut) decreases the spring preload to carry a lighter load.
I've been wanting to get some of the progressive 422's for a while, but I'm poor so that option has to wait. All I know is that when me and my wife (I'm 200, she's 140) get on the fatboy for a ride, it seems to sit WAY low and bottom out quite a bit. My father in law said that I need to increase the preload on the shocks, but I looked under there and couldn't see anyway possible to do this.
Is he crazy or am I just such a noob that I don't know where or how to adjust them?
Thanks
How To: adjust Softail rear shock preload
Softails's come from the factory with the lightest setting for the rear shocks(for <180lbs solo rider). However, they can handle well over 400lbs with no problems with a simple preload adjustment.
The service manual is a bit vague on how to set the preload. The procedure I use is fairly simple. Its based on the procedure from fatbillscustoms.com, but their website is gone now. It was fairly detained. I've made some tweaks to it for simplicity... Enjoy...
1) Jack the bike up so the rear tire is off the ground. The more clearance you have the easier it is. Don't forget to strap the bike down. You don't want it falling on you while your wrenching underneath it.
2) Loosen the jam nut all the way out. Its a 1-11/16" nut. If it doesn't want to loosen easily (which is often the case), soak it in some penetrating lube.
3) With a spanner wrench (HD p/n 94448-82B) turn the adjuster plate counter-clockwise (so the shock housing moves towards the front of the bike) until its up against the jam nut.
4) Then take a light colored paint pen, or a piece of duck tape, and mark the 6 o'clock position on the adjuster plate to use as a reference point when doing your adjustment. Don't worry if they're not in exactly the same position on both shocks. Thats normal.
Now your ready to adjust the shocks to your weight/load.
5) With the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more then 4 complete turns by counting how many times the mark from step 4 crosses the 6 o'clock position. 0 turns is the stiffest setting, and 4 turns is the softest setting.
6) While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, tighten the jam nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
6) Now repeat the exact same process on the other shock. The key is to adjust both shocks equally.
The generalrule of thumb I use is:
4 turns for load <= 180 lbs
3 turns for 180lbs < load <= 235lbs
2 turns for 235lbs < load <= 300lbs
1 turn for 300lbs < load <= 375lbs
0 turns for 375 < load
Examples:
235lbs solo rider: 3 full turns
235lbs solo rider + 32lbs pack: 2.5 turns
235lbs rider + 150lbs passenger + 32lbs pack: 0.5 turns
I like a slightly stiffer ride when running solo (3 turns for my 235lbs fat booty), but run a softer ride when my girlies on the back (1 turn). Adjust your shock to taste by 1/4 turn increments till you get it dialed in for you and your riding style.
Note: you may be tempted to skip step 1 and not jack the bike up. Resist the urge. A stock ride height with the bike on its kick-stand, you may be able to use a crowsfoot or similar to get the jam nut loose, but you will have little to no room to use the spanner wrench. So take the time to do it right and jack the bike up. It only takes a minute (including strapping the bike down).
With me and the wife and the RK bags full, we are definitely pushing around 400 pounds so that would explain the squatted rear end and bottoming out all the time.
I will definitely get the shocks adjusted out and can't wait to try it out this weekend.
Anyways, took about 20 minutes, grabbed the old lady and threw her on the back and could tell an immediate difference in the stance of the bike.
We headed around the block which is a pretty rough stretch and the bike worked flawless. Felt a little stiff in the rear (I was all the way backed out) but the bike didn't even come close to bottoming out and the ride was so much better.
Thanks again for the info. Definitely renewed my love affair with my Fattie!
How To: adjust Softail rear shock preload
Softails's come from the factory with the lightest setting for the rear shocks(for <180lbs solo rider). However, they can handle well over 400lbs with no problems with a simple preload adjustment.
The service manual is a bit vague on how to set the preload. The procedure I use is fairly simple. Its based on the procedure from fatbillscustoms.com, but their website is gone now. It was fairly detained. I've made some tweaks to it for simplicity... Enjoy...
1) Jack the bike up so the rear tire is off the ground. The more clearance you have the easier it is. Don't forget to strap the bike down. You don't want it falling on you while your wrenching underneath it.
2) Loosen the jam nut all the way out. Its a 1-11/16" nut. If it doesn't want to loosen easily (which is often the case), soak it in some penetrating lube.
3) With a spanner wrench (HD p/n 94448-82B) turn the adjuster plate counter-clockwise (so the shock housing moves towards the front of the bike) until its up against the jam nut.
4) Then take a light colored paint pen, or a piece of duck tape, and mark the 6 o'clock position on the adjuster plate to use as a reference point when doing your adjustment. Don't worry if they're not in exactly the same position on both shocks. Thats normal.
Now your ready to adjust the shocks to your weight/load.
5) With the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more then 4 complete turns by counting how many times the mark from step 4 crosses the 6 o'clock position. 0 turns is the stiffest setting, and 4 turns is the softest setting.
6) While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, tighten the jam nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
6) Now repeat the exact same process on the other shock. The key is to adjust both shocks equally.
The generalrule of thumb I use is:
4 turns for load <= 180 lbs
3 turns for 180lbs < load <= 235lbs
2 turns for 235lbs < load <= 300lbs
1 turn for 300lbs < load <= 375lbs
0 turns for 375 < load
Examples:
235lbs solo rider: 3 full turns
235lbs solo rider + 32lbs pack: 2.5 turns
235lbs rider + 150lbs passenger + 32lbs pack: 0.5 turns
I like a slightly stiffer ride when running solo (3 turns for my 235lbs fat booty), but run a softer ride when my girlies on the back (1 turn). Adjust your shock to taste by 1/4 turn increments till you get it dialed in for you and your riding style.
Note: you may be tempted to skip step 1 and not jack the bike up. Resist the urge. A stock ride height with the bike on its kick-stand, you may be able to use a crowsfoot or similar to get the jam nut loose, but you will have little to no room to use the spanner wrench. So take the time to do it right and jack the bike up. It only takes a minute (including strapping the bike down).
I finally got the jam nut free (don't think it has moved since rolling off the line) cranked the shocks to the preset I wanted and viola. Great ride with the wife.
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Got my shocks dialed in today, ready for the 70+ degree SoCal weather Sunday. Time for a ride.
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