Cool! Here's an opportunity. Can you take some pics of the work.. That would be a great step by step thread.
From all I've read/talked to, you'll probably have to pull the tank to get to the wiring underneath.. I had one fatboy rider tell me with two guys, he was able to just lift the tank while the other guy worked underneath.. It just sounds easier to me to fully drain the tank and remove it. (svc manual might come in handy).

Then you've got some plugs to work with, because they won't go through the bars.

One method is to splice and extend the wiring, if you're comfortable with soldering and shrinkwrap it shouldn't be bad.. Critical thing is just to make sure you get the right wires back together. JP also sells an extension kit that's just colored spliced wires and shrinkwrap.. Radio shack works too, I'd say. Just clean solder points and good shrink tubing.

On cabling, I've heard a couple people say 6 inches over on throttle/clutch/brake lines. for the 12" apes, 4 inch over cables "might" possibly work. The clutch cable is a beeeyatch.. You gotta pull the trans side cover to swap. FUN! Get ready to pull exhaust pipes for that. project just got bigger. keep lot's of cold beer handy. Cooler makes a good garage seat.

You've got a beautiful bike. I really like that color and those shotguns.

 

Hey Guys,

I put Wild 1, 8" drag bars (W501) on my 04 FatBoy. Didn't need to extend cables. Here's some info on the job.

But a shop manual...Buy a shop manual...Buy a shop manual...

-remove battery

-drained the tank with vaccuum tool (Mity Vac) from Sears...connect to back of gas stopvalve on bike...apply vacuum and drain tank; cut crossover tube...remove tank (lots of rags needed...you're gonna spill gas...you never get it all); you don't have to remove tank...some just disconnect it and slide it back far enough to get to the electrical connectors.

-remove controls/modules from old bars and disconnect bars from bike (consult your manual); I did not have to disassemble the throttle wires...I was able to slide the right control off of the old bars and onto the new bars by removing the front brake lever mount screws and control module mount screws

-disconnect all control module wire connectors under tank; map out the wire colors and their position in the connector body (THIS IS IMPORTANT TO DO FOR REASSEMBLY); disassemble connectors to remove individual wire pins (a small pointed ice-pick-like tool (only smaller) works great to get at the individual wire pin releases (see shop manual); save all connector parts for reassembly)

-strip black plastic insulation off of all wire groups about 1" from control module body (cut insulation at one end only and pull off of group of wires...this insulation is too bulky to pass through the bars...I used 1/2 inch heat shrink tubing and a heat gun to cover the wire groups where they pass through the bars...you want this nice and tight so don't be afraid to apply the heat

- With the new bars on the bike, or on a bench, use a vacuum cleaner to draw yarn or kite string through the bars...attach something stronger (Kite string or slightly heavier) and pull that through

-mount bars on bike (don't threadlock-tighten yet)

-use electrical tape to connect string passing through bars to each group of connector pin heads (6) ...here's where is gets tricky...use just enough tape to create a tapered 'bullet' with the 6 pin connectors so it will slide (Ha Ha) through the bars...keep in mind the wires now have 1/2 shrink tubing on them...I didn't use any lube...you sort of have to 'shimmy' it through using a push-pull technique...here's where patience comes in...it took me 6 tries per side to get the tape 'bullet' just right in size so it would pass...THIS IS DEFINITELY THE ZEN PART OF THE JOURNEY...ONCE DONE YOU WILL NOW BE COUNTED AMONG ALL THE ZEN MASTER BIKE HANDLEBAR INSTALLERS IN THE COSMOS...

-reconnect pin wires in connectors and plug in under tank (used lots of wire ties from Pep Boys)

- torque/locktite the handlebars to top triple tree; reconnect gas tank

- I did a 2" tank lift also...that why I removed the tank...you want to remove it anyway if your working alone

- moved the front turn signals to the lower screw on the tins behind the headlight. Use a stainless 5/16, #24 threaded rod or bolt cut to approx 1-2" long of threaded portion (good luck finding one)...most HomeDepots and Loews don't have this...they go up to 5/16, #18 thread...I have a detachable windsheild that I'll cut down and use someday...a 1 1/2 - 2" thread length allows you to use the windshield mounting hardware on the threaded shaft. With the turn signal body wires disconnected and loose, thread one end of the treaded rod into turn signal body and lock with a nut...slide windshield mounting hardware on threaded shaft followed by another nut...thread free end of threaded rod into fork...tighten nuts at fork and at signal body....reconnect signal light wires under tank.

-I also torqued the upper engine mounting bolts and headbolts, etc. while the tank was removed...waxed my rocker covers also...they're easier to get to now with the tank lift.

Good luck...

AlbertG