Lower Leg Removal (i.e. Fork Sliders)
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Road Captain
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Lower Leg Removal (i.e. Fork Sliders)
I bought a set of black powder coated lower legs (fork sliders) for my Night Train. What is the process to change the lower legs? Would you rate this simple or complicated?
Do I need any special tools and will I loose the fork oil?
Do I need any special tools and will I loose the fork oil?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
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RE: Lower Leg Removal (i.e. Fork Sliders)
No offense, but you need to go buy a service manual.
No, you do not really need any special tools. Some will tell you a seal driver. Howver, I just push them in with a couple of wooden dowels.
Yes, you have to drain the fork oil.
The job is pretty easy and relatively straight forward.
No, you do not really need any special tools. Some will tell you a seal driver. Howver, I just push them in with a couple of wooden dowels.
Yes, you have to drain the fork oil.
The job is pretty easy and relatively straight forward.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 96
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RE: Lower Leg Removal (i.e. Fork Sliders)
Very simple but yeah, a manual would go a long way if you have never done it before. Seal driver does expedite the process. If I didn't have one, I would look for something else with a 41mm insided diameter to use.
www.chromethathog.com
www.chromethathog.com
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 302
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From: Ventura County, CA
RE: Lower Leg Removal (i.e. Fork Sliders)
I recently lowered my front end and replaced the stock lower legs with chrome ones.
Its kind of tedious, cause you have to remove the front wheel, caliper and fender.
Make sure to get new seals and refill with the Screamin Eagle fork oil.
Some notes:
1. To tap the new seal in place, I placed the old seal over it and tapped into place carefully, then just slid the old seal off.
2. Dealing with the fork itself is easy. There is a screw located at the bottom of each leg that holds the dampner in position(inside the leg). The screw takes a 6mm allen, you will need a long allen for the left leg. (the forks are japanese -Showa!) The caliper bolts are metric too.
3. To extract the fork tube from the lower leg. Remove the clip which holds the seal in place, and use a slide hammer type action by pulling the tube out and pushing it in, it will come out in a few tries.
4. The manual puts it into a nice schematic and gives you torque values for re assembly. With patience, you can complete the job in a couple hours. What with disassembly and reassembly of the fender, wheel, caliper etc.
Good luck
P.S. The pic does not show my new changes! Will get some on as soon as I can shine her up.
[IMG]local://upfiles/3061/4DF7218177A0443AB079FBBDB5EC8322.jpg[/IMG]
Its kind of tedious, cause you have to remove the front wheel, caliper and fender.
Make sure to get new seals and refill with the Screamin Eagle fork oil.
Some notes:
1. To tap the new seal in place, I placed the old seal over it and tapped into place carefully, then just slid the old seal off.
2. Dealing with the fork itself is easy. There is a screw located at the bottom of each leg that holds the dampner in position(inside the leg). The screw takes a 6mm allen, you will need a long allen for the left leg. (the forks are japanese -Showa!) The caliper bolts are metric too.
3. To extract the fork tube from the lower leg. Remove the clip which holds the seal in place, and use a slide hammer type action by pulling the tube out and pushing it in, it will come out in a few tries.
4. The manual puts it into a nice schematic and gives you torque values for re assembly. With patience, you can complete the job in a couple hours. What with disassembly and reassembly of the fender, wheel, caliper etc.
Good luck
P.S. The pic does not show my new changes! Will get some on as soon as I can shine her up.
[IMG]local://upfiles/3061/4DF7218177A0443AB079FBBDB5EC8322.jpg[/IMG]
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