Help on changing lower fork legs....
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 777
Likes: 36
From: Woodland Hills, CA
Help on changing lower fork legs....
I will be changing my lower forks for chrome on the 2k Heritage. What do I need besides the new forks for the installation? I think a fork seal kit...and???
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 862
Likes: 2
From: WI
Other than the obvious hand tools, and the fork oil and seals already mentioned, you'll need something to drive the new seals into the lowers. This could be an actual seal driver, but those are expensive if you have to buy one for a one-time change. I'd heard that you can take a 1.5" PVC pipe and split it down the side. I tried that, and it was too tight on the upper leg - so much so that I wound up bashing the ever-loving hell out of the little bottoming cup in one of my forks, and had to postpone the swap while waiting for a replacement. Instead, I cut about 3/4" out of a 2" PVC pipe on a table saw and closed it back up with a few zip ties just tight enough to fit inside the lower, but not bind on the upper. This worked like a charm.
As Chester said above, if you're considering upgrading your suspension with Ricors or Monotubes, now's a great opportunity, since you have them apart.
Youtube has a few videos on rebuilding forks and also on suspension upgrades. If you haven't yet, spend a few minutes checking them out.
It's not a difficult job, but you do want to make sure it all goes back together correctly.
As Chester said above, if you're considering upgrading your suspension with Ricors or Monotubes, now's a great opportunity, since you have them apart.
Youtube has a few videos on rebuilding forks and also on suspension upgrades. If you haven't yet, spend a few minutes checking them out.
It's not a difficult job, but you do want to make sure it all goes back together correctly.
Supporter
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,912
Likes: 73
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Here's an old thread on changing fork lowers with some excellent YouTube how-to's...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...k-sliders.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...k-sliders.html
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 189
From: Newcastle, Ca.
Seal kit, fork oil, 2" pvc, 6mm allen wrench.
Definitely throw in Race Tech springs and Ricors. Or Race Tech springs and Gold Valves, ~$220. 422's on rear, they come up used from time to time. With upgraded suspension, the bike will ride and handle soooo much better you will not believe it. At minimum, new springs in front, they are only $100.
I used 2" PVC and it worked perfectly for setting seals. After forks removed, I took the lowers down to a Yamaha shop and they removed the 6mm bolts for free. Tighten 6mm bolts after springs are installed. Springs will put pressure on damper rod so it will not spin when tightening bolts.
Definitely throw in Race Tech springs and Ricors. Or Race Tech springs and Gold Valves, ~$220. 422's on rear, they come up used from time to time. With upgraded suspension, the bike will ride and handle soooo much better you will not believe it. At minimum, new springs in front, they are only $100.
I used 2" PVC and it worked perfectly for setting seals. After forks removed, I took the lowers down to a Yamaha shop and they removed the 6mm bolts for free. Tighten 6mm bolts after springs are installed. Springs will put pressure on damper rod so it will not spin when tightening bolts.
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 777
Likes: 36
From: Woodland Hills, CA
Planning on going to monotubes at the same time. I would really like to do the 2" lower option but researching it has me wondering if it's a good idea. Any thoughts on that would be greatly appreciated. I would love the 2" lower but I don't want to have a harsh ride either!
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 189
From: Newcastle, Ca.
2" lower will be a very firm ride. And lean angle would suck. Are you lowering rear also? With rear at stock height, the rake/trail will be off and the bike will feel nervous/twitchy and potentially very dangerous. Do you have to lower the bike for health reasons? Or is this a future garage **** bike. Your bike is setup to ride, tour, with bags and shield, lowering it defeats the Heritage attributes.
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Supporter
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,912
Likes: 73
From: Pittsburgh, PA
2" lower will be a very firm ride. And lean angle would suck. Are you lowering rear also? With rear at stock height, the rake/trail will be off and the bike will feel nervous/twitchy and potentially very dangerous. Do you have to lower the bike for health reasons? Or is this a future garage **** bike. Your bike is setup to ride, tour, with bags and shield, lowering it defeats the Heritage attributes.
What he said...
Anytime you change the bike's geometry you're gonna feel it.
I installed a Shotgun Shock a couple years back and instantly I noticed a change in the front end - the SS really amplified just how bad the stock front suspension really was.
Plus If I rode with the rear lowered, even just an inch, it felt as though it "lightened" the front end, as if it changed the center of gravity.
The front end would just hammer my shoulders on even the smallest road imperfections.
I ended up upgrading the front end to the Progressive Monotubes (at stock height) and the overall feel of the bike changed dramatically.
The rear is always set at about stock height, and for a smooth ride, and the front end firmed up quite a bit, feeling more "planted" and more in control.
Between the two it now rides like a dream.
Before the Progressives, I had a good 4" of sloppy travel between accelerating and braking - afterwards it firmed up to where there's now only about 2" of travel.
A huge difference.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,824
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From: Myrtle Beach SC
When I put the new lowers on the FatBoy a couple months ago. did it alone in the garage. Got a couple things, first, be careful removing that 6mm allen from the bottom of the tube, if you strip it, you have a real issue, use a good long allen and a impact wrench if you have one. Second, I used the OLD seal as a buffer to install the new one into the tube far enough, worked great. Third pushing that spring down into the tube by yourself is a real treat, took several tries to get that first thread to catch.
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