have tmax/at on my 07 train for 4 years...i like yet have not tried anything else to compare...have not had the speedo issue since upgraded firmware, but don't remember which version...easy to select and load base map (as close as possible to your setup) and the auto-tune will adjust it... you may tune it yourself but i have not done it, there's good tutorials on youtube regarding tuning....
i chose tmax/at cause i intended on motor mods, but never did...the advantage is they provide maps for diff motor displacement/cams/exhaust so you would get good performance without necessarily needing a dyno tune after such mods...

@ cpiad, connect your pc to the ecm and theres a procedure using the smartlink software to check for firmware upgrades

@ tlb, you use a program called smartlink to upload the base map to the ecm...the base maps are included with the software and it provides a functionality to check for updates/new maps

 

dte = distance to empty?...if my 07 train has/had such functionality i didn't know it ...

 

Thanks, I figure they are inside of the software. I have not loaded any of the software yet. In about 3 weeks I am going to begin my stage II install. I have to have bungs welded in my exhaust at the same time. It all looks pretty easy from the videos and manual. However, if I run into a problem, I may PM you.

 

The other thing is to also send an email or call Zippers and give them your build specifics, and they can suggest the best base map to begin with. As long as it is close, it should be able to auto-tune very quickly - here are a couple of YouTube links to get you started:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10ohzFjhDcs - Getting started with ThunderMax

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sCO4OG6BiM - Great one showing a ThunderMax autotuning a grossly mis-tuned motor

http://www.youtube.com/ThunderMaxAv - ThunderMax YouTube channel

From my experience Zippers provides excellent customer support and is very responsive, even via email. They responded very quickly when I was getting my cams done and provided the best base map starting point for my configuration.

Roger

 

Here's a good one for you to see the initial setup, including selecting the specifics regarding selecting the basemap:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nr3akoWt6w&NR=1

Roger

 

the install is easy, at least was for me, and i'm no expert...only issue i had, that i remember, was that i drained my battery cause i kept the ignition on while reading instructions during the process , lesson learned never happened again...it helps if you got a battery tender, especially cause the ecm init requires cycling the ignition on/off for 30 secs 3 times...
i have been off the forum for a while cause too much work, but i'll gladly help if can

 

My biggest concern is having the O2 bungs welded in. My dealer does not weld them in. I will have to go to a muffler shop to have it done.
I have some pictures of them installed and I will measure them off, marking the location before I take them in.
I do not want to pay a muffler shop to mark them and remove the pipes.
I could actually weld them in, I have a wire-feed welder, but I really am not a great welder. I am fine welding on fence posts or a trailer, but thin metal is a challenge for me.

 

Best bet is to have an expert do so, and absolutely make sure they're in the right location for your pipes.

Roger

 

yep ... I learned same lesson ... best to pull the headlight and acc light fuses ... on my bike factory sets them to ON ...

 

You can do it ... practice on a junk piece of car muffler .. all your gonna do is drill some holes and weld on what amounts to fat internally threaded washers. Just get a slightly chamfered clean welding surface on both bung and exhaust tube side. Biggest issue is to achieve air tight weld and not end up with a gnarly looking bead that you'll have to grind if you are gonna chrome or powder coat. I know you are gonna do it anyway .. but prefit your exhaust tubes with out bungs ... mock it up with a mark/tape/grease pencil showing where the bung will be ... there is some minor room for movings things around, but you want to be fairly close say less than 3/8 inch overall excursion tolerance in any direction. Make sure you have enough vertical room at the approximate radial angle to account for the wide band O2 sensors when they will be screwed in place. If you can get a decent looking practice weld ... and you have a welding machine ... why pay some guy at a muffler shop for something you can do and probably do it better... and you'll know you did it and how you did it.

"The only thing you to fear ... is fear itself!" FDR