Thunder max help
Lookin for a basemap for my 08 Night Train, runnin good but my milage sucks, gettin about 120 miles outa a tank, might be my ridin style mostly hiway n full out whenever I can. Can't seem to break the sport bike habit of as fast as I can.
Checked EFI maps but the closest map I get is for 103"er n my computer skillz suck.
Got V&H short shots with quiet baffels n a K&N intake.
Hopefully I'll have some shop time next whilst installing my Shotgun shock n any help would be greatly appreciated.
Checked EFI maps but the closest map I get is for 103"er n my computer skillz suck.
Got V&H short shots with quiet baffels n a K&N intake.
Hopefully I'll have some shop time next whilst installing my Shotgun shock n any help would be greatly appreciated.
MPG is in your right wrist my friend.
HOWEVER, I have found that my bike gets better as time goes on with the T-Max. I was getting 33MPG for a while, then it went up to 34, 36 and now nearly 40. No change in riding style so either my ride turned into all downhill with a tail wind or the fuel curve is catching up.
I don't have my software here but I'll check in the morning to see how close you should be with your base, that is if someone else doesn't fill in the blanks before that.
HOWEVER, I have found that my bike gets better as time goes on with the T-Max. I was getting 33MPG for a while, then it went up to 34, 36 and now nearly 40. No change in riding style so either my ride turned into all downhill with a tail wind or the fuel curve is catching up.
I don't have my software here but I'll check in the morning to see how close you should be with your base, that is if someone else doesn't fill in the blanks before that.
I take it that the pipes and a/c are the only mods? Probably base map 566 would be your best choice. I have v&h big radius and se a/c and use this map. I get way better milage than that although I'm not always on the throttle.
just installed a thunder max on my '06 Fatboy along with V&H staggered short shots and a ness big sucker stage II a/c. told zippers what pipes & a/c i was going to install and they preloaded map #645 on the thunder max. 1st. tank mpg was 44.7 some city some highway riding. 52.7 mpg bone stock with all highway miles. i'm finding it hard to keep out of the throttle since installing the V&H exhaust.
If I stay under 80 mph ... and cruise at about 70 mph ... I get about 48 mpg on my 2010 96B engine with Rush 2in baffles and A/N big sucker. And the bike pulls hard .. with only some minor ping under heavy loading in the critical 2500 rpm 50% throttle up zone. I do get some occassional ping .. but that is to be expected with Rush slip ons and a wide baffle .. and no cats.
Remember to ride it hard as hell while you are logging miles for the autotune run ... then ... after you accept autotune recommendations .. wipe out the yellow markers .. and ride like you normally do .. and then check the mpg. Also .. look in the T-max users manual under "Tuning" and follow their instructions .. takes a little effort ... but it takes no brains whatsoever to follow the T-Max instructions to tune the engine yourself ... and remember ... the autotune model can only do so much A/F tuning within a narrow band ... YOU have to get the ignition curves where they need to be so the A/F ratio curves can be fine tuned ....
My TMax should arrive today, so if I'm looking at the Base Map Defs right, map 712 replaced 566 on 4/8/2011, and I should be able to use this map on my stock 2010 FXSTC with V&H Big Radius and high-flow a/c? thx...
Sorry...didn't mean to hijack the thread...James @ ThunderMax confirmed.
Sorry...didn't mean to hijack the thread...James @ ThunderMax confirmed.
Last edited by SlkTxn; May 16, 2011 at 04:54 PM.
My TMax should arrive today, so if I'm looking at the Base Map Defs right, map 712 replaced 566 on 4/8/2011, and I should be able to use this map on my stock 2010 FXSTC with V&H Big Radius and high-flow a/c? thx...
Sorry...didn't mean to hijack the thread...James @ ThunderMax confirmed.
Sorry...didn't mean to hijack the thread...James @ ThunderMax confirmed.
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Plus one on 566 ... install the new map ... ride the bike like you stole it for about 150 - 200 miles ... hit it hard on the throttle ... lug it a bit too ... listen for pings in the 2500 rpm range at 50% throttle ... notice any backfires ... after the 200 or so miles .. hook computer back up and run an autotune diagnostic session ... see how close the base map is based on the T-Max findings. Every single bike is different and the Zipper maps are only approximations of your set up. YOU WILL NEED TO TUNE IT SOME YOURSELF ... to get it just right .. or as right as you want it ...
If I stay under 80 mph ... and cruise at about 70 mph ... I get about 48 mpg on my 2010 96B engine with Rush 2in baffles and A/N big sucker. And the bike pulls hard .. with only some minor ping under heavy loading in the critical 2500 rpm 50% throttle up zone. I do get some occassional ping .. but that is to be expected with Rush slip ons and a wide baffle .. and no cats.
Remember to ride it hard as hell while you are logging miles for the autotune run ... then ... after you accept autotune recommendations .. wipe out the yellow markers .. and ride like you normally do .. and then check the mpg. Also .. look in the T-max users manual under "Tuning" and follow their instructions .. takes a little effort ... but it takes no brains whatsoever to follow the T-Max instructions to tune the engine yourself ... and remember ... the autotune model can only do so much A/F tuning within a narrow band ... YOU have to get the ignition curves where they need to be so the A/F ratio curves can be fine tuned ....
If I stay under 80 mph ... and cruise at about 70 mph ... I get about 48 mpg on my 2010 96B engine with Rush 2in baffles and A/N big sucker. And the bike pulls hard .. with only some minor ping under heavy loading in the critical 2500 rpm 50% throttle up zone. I do get some occassional ping .. but that is to be expected with Rush slip ons and a wide baffle .. and no cats.
Remember to ride it hard as hell while you are logging miles for the autotune run ... then ... after you accept autotune recommendations .. wipe out the yellow markers .. and ride like you normally do .. and then check the mpg. Also .. look in the T-max users manual under "Tuning" and follow their instructions .. takes a little effort ... but it takes no brains whatsoever to follow the T-Max instructions to tune the engine yourself ... and remember ... the autotune model can only do so much A/F tuning within a narrow band ... YOU have to get the ignition curves where they need to be so the A/F ratio curves can be fine tuned ....
I'll let ya know how it goes.
Again, many thanks
send me PM if you need help. Call Zippers if you are unsure if which is best map to start with...make damn sure you tell the Zipper guy exactly what you have done to the engine.
Read the chapter on Tuning a couple of times...print it out on paper...makes it easier to read. Just remember...its hard to fuxx things up with the Tmax....take your time...its not brain surgery....most of the guys that install the things and tune your bikes are knuckledraggers like me. If I can do it .... anybody can.
Once you find the closest starting map, you can still make changes that will improve your mileage. Zippers has an instruction sheet that they will send to you for this exact procedure. Their approach is to a. make sure your bike doesn't get damaged by being too lean and b. keep your performance as high as is possible without using a dyno.
If you lean out the bike for crusing conditions only (correct rpm, throttle position) it really won't affect performance that much in my opinion. If you hit the throttle hard, it won't be affected by these adjustments. If you try to accelerate gradually to pass, however, you would probably notice a difference.
The more custom your engine is, the more you should go get a dyno to establish your own base map.
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If you lean out the bike for crusing conditions only (correct rpm, throttle position) it really won't affect performance that much in my opinion. If you hit the throttle hard, it won't be affected by these adjustments. If you try to accelerate gradually to pass, however, you would probably notice a difference.
The more custom your engine is, the more you should go get a dyno to establish your own base map.
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