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Old May 26, 2011 | 11:17 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by RANGER73
... It's a 94 fxstc, real low mileage (160). The bike's new, and new to me. But that's another story.
If it is a 94 bike with only 160 miles, I would check/rebuild the whole brake system, front as well as back, especially if the bike has been sitting all these years without having the fluids changed out. All the rubber parts in the brakes are probably shot. Also, unless you got DOT 5 in there, the brake fluid will be saturated with water after all those years of sitting unused.

Have you checked the tires and all other rubber components for dry rot?
 
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Old May 27, 2011 | 12:32 AM
  #12  
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a 1994 model with 160 miles? second on the bad rubber...daaaang
 
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Old May 27, 2011 | 07:41 AM
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Rubbers still good, PO kept it in temp controlled garage. Ordered a new master cylinder (as apposed to a rebuild kit), and I'll replace fluid. Don't know whats in there (DOT 3 or 5). PO had it serviced before I picked it up, there was no oil in the primary. So I'm not trusting the Indy to much. If that doesn't do it I'll do the caliper, but it releases fine it I crack the bleeder, so I don't think that's the problem. Maybe i'll rebuild the old one and keep it as a spare, on the shelf with everything else.
Thanks for all the advice, I'll keep you posted.
 
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Old May 27, 2011 | 07:48 AM
  #14  
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No way would I not rebuild or at least pull apart and clean and lube the calipers. Not one but both. Having the piston sit in one position for the winter is bad enough, nearly 17 years, No Freakin Way.
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 07:10 AM
  #15  
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Went out to check peddle play and it's free with no pad binding when pressed not even when pumped. Which leads me to believe it's heat related. So I'm going to flush the fluid. I'll swap the MC when it gets here but that's not until next Saturday. And I'm to impatient.
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 08:44 AM
  #16  
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Pedal not returning is most likely a problem in the master cylinder, but I agree with the other posters, you should also disassemble the calipers, clean them and replace the seals while you are changing the master cylinder.

While you have the wheels off, it would be a good time to repack the wheel bearings, you have 17 year old grease in them.
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 08:53 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by RANGER73
Don't know whats in there (DOT 3 or 5).
Don't know if it makes any difference at all, but is it not supposed to be DOT4? Memory is sort of sketchy but when I bled my springer brakes (maybe they are different) seems like that's what was recommended.
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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Book says DOT5, flushed rear fluid was dark with soot, and for haha's checked front. Resivior was empty. Flushed that too. Took her out and rear bound up again. Guess I gotta wait for the new Master Cylinder. Seams to be heat related maybe exhaust.
 

Last edited by RANGER73; May 28, 2011 at 06:54 PM.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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Update, I'm a dumb ***. When I installed the new forward controls over the winter I wanted a more responsive brake peddle. I adjusted it to tight. So it wasn't returning enough to let the brake fluid to return.
Thanks for all the advice.
 
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