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Hey All, got a question, so I read the manual on how to remove
the front and the rear tire so that I can have new tires installed.
The question I have is, will the brakes close when I take them off the rotors? The book kinda doesnt explain to well(clymer). Also will I have to take the primary cover to make sure the belt goes on the right way? I know when I take the rear tire I will be giving the belt alot of slack to come off the sprocket. One last question, I was given a chrome sprocket cover and plan to install it before I put the wheel on, am I gunna have to replace the bolts or can I use the same one's? Thanks in advance!!!
the pads may close a little.. stick a screwdriver between them and pry apart... no need to take off primary... use the same bolts and torque.
Yea, what wheel said. One thing you do want to make sure of is to put something between the pads. If someone hits the brakes while the calipers are not in the rotors, it can sometimes be a pain to get them apart if they're closed all the way. Worse is if you have the pads out of the calipers, then you can pop the piston out of the caliper and you get to rebuild them.
Only time you need to pull the primary when doing something with the drive belt is if you are replacing the belt or the front (trans) sprocket. Not with the rear sprocket.
Thanks for the fast replies guys, one last question will I have to take off the belt guards (upper & Lower)?
Thanks Memo
Don't know what kind of bike you have but on mine and my girlfriends they are not in the way. There's only a couple of bolts holding them on so if they get in your way, it'll only take a couple of minutes to pull them.
make sure you have a solid stand, especially if your bike has a full rear fender. The 99 dollar Craftsman isn't gonna cut it--I have one. If you don't the brake pads will be the least of your concerns.
I would never reuse sprocket bolts once theyve been torqued..You can get brand new grade 8's for about $25. Cheap insurance if you ask me..Oh and dont forget the red loctite.
It really depends upon which model you have. You first should have a Harley shop manual instead of a Clymer. On some bikes there is a specific order that the belt guard must be installed with. If you have a 200mm rear tire, you cannot put on a sprocket cover... there isn't enough room. You need a jack to raise the bike safely that is made specifically for a motorcycle (i.e. not a bottle jack and some wood). There are spacers that need to be managed correctly. You must get the bike high enough to roll the wheel out of the fender well. Do not hang your caliper by the brake line. I don't think that red loctite is necessary for the sprocket bolts. +1 to be safe replace the bolts.
If you have laced wheels you may be able to change the tire yourself. Usually you can get the used tire off, get the new one started for one side, insert the NEW spoke protector (easier to do it first bebore mounting the tire... excuse me) and tube, then take it to a shop to have the other side of the tire installed and balanced. Putting a new tire on by hand requires some practice to avoid puncturing your new tube when you put the second side on. Do not skimp on this life critical effort. If you have a tubless tire on a mag wheel, well, then that's a whole nother kettle of fish. You have to make sure in both cases that the beads snap back into place correctly. You also need to make sure that the mark on the tire is next to the valve stem to save putting big weights on the rim. You need a tire slick solution or dishwashing liquid to use as a lubricant. Check your wheel bearings while you have the wheel off for rough spots or binds.
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