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Cams and big bore questions

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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 12:25 PM
  #21  
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Don't delay checking the cam change. If that whine you hear is the cam chain making contat with the metal tensioner holder or a cam bearing (inner or outer) about to go, it needs attending to now. The kit linked in a previous post is the SE Hybrid kit and can be purchased online from Zanotti's or another discount H-D dealer for about $360, plus shipping.

I have seen them go with less than 10K miles and the results is ususally bad juju; you will be replacing more than cams and tensioners.
 

Last edited by djl; Jun 29, 2011 at 01:48 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #22  
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Thanks. I will be pulling the cover tonight.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainK
Thanks. I will be pulling the cover tonight.
Let us know what you find. You will need a dental mirror to get a look at the inner tensioner without pulling the cam plate. Pulling the cam plate is more complicated than it sounds and not something I would recommend doing to check the inner tensioner; get the dental mirror. Typically, the inner is the trouble maker.

Do you have the service manual? It will tell you that unless the tensioners are cracked, chipped, gouged or weaing unevenly that if the tensioers are worn 50% or more, they should be replaced.

If both tensioers are wearing well and looking good, bearings could be the issue and if one of those inner cam bearings goes, you will likely be replacing the motor or pulling it and rebuilding from the bottom up.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 11:07 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by djl
Let us know what you find. You will need a dental mirror to get a look at the inner tensioner without pulling the cam plate. Pulling the cam plate is more complicated than it sounds and not something I would recommend doing to check the inner tensioner; get the dental mirror. Typically, the inner is the trouble maker.

Do you have the service manual? It will tell you that unless the tensioners are cracked, chipped, gouged or weaing unevenly that if the tensioers are worn 50% or more, they should be replaced.

If both tensioers are wearing well and looking good, bearings could be the issue and if one of those inner cam bearings goes, you will likely be replacing the motor or pulling it and rebuilding from the bottom up.
Pulled the cover tonight and the cam guides almost look new. Very little wear on either. I have a dental mirror and was able check the inner easy enough.

I'm still leaning towards it being the compensator.....

Spoke with dealer today and feel they were a bit high on their pricing. They wanted $2300 for big bore, cams, updated cam plate and labor.

I think I will do the work myself....
Still looking for a vendor. I e-mailed a couple with no response.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 09:22 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by CaptainK
Pulled the cover tonight and the cam guides almost look new. Very little wear on either. I have a dental mirror and was able check the inner easy enough.

I'm still leaning towards it being the compensator.....

Spoke with dealer today and feel they were a bit high on their pricing. They wanted $2300 for big bore, cams, updated cam plate and labor.

I think I will do the work myself....
Still looking for a vendor. I e-mailed a couple with no response.
Good news but compensators don't whine; they clunk and make real nasty noises that sound like the motor is coming apart. I am still thinking cam bearing or something that is rotating/spinning, not something reciprocating/moving up and down.

You have mentioned that the noise is coincidental with engine rpms, i.e., the noise rises and falls with engine rpm. How about in the garage, in neutral? Does the noise change with clutch in/out? Those noises can be really hard to locate.

You will have better luck callling the vendors than emailing them; best to talk to them anyway.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 12:07 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by djl
Good news but compensators don't whine; they clunk and make real nasty noises that sound like the motor is coming apart. I am still thinking cam bearing or something that is rotating/spinning, not something reciprocating/moving up and down.

You have mentioned that the noise is coincidental with engine rpms, i.e., the noise rises and falls with engine rpm. How about in the garage, in neutral? Does the noise change with clutch in/out? Those noises can be really hard to locate.

You will have better luck callling the vendors than emailing them; best to talk to them anyway.

Clutch in or out makes no difference. In gear out of gear makes no difference. The sound follows the motor.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainK
Clutch in or out makes no difference. In gear out of gear makes no difference. The sound follows the motor.
Bearings somewhere are not happy.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 12:22 AM
  #28  
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An open in the Alternator Stator or the Rectifier portion of the Voltage Regulator can also make a whining sound that rises and falls with engine RPM. Completely unplug the Voltage Regulator with the Engine Off and then start the bike. If the noise goes away you've found the source of the whine. BTW the operative words here are "with the Engine Off" and "Completely unplug"
 
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