Adjusting the rear shocks
Tourer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 266
Likes: 1
From: Boynton Beach, FL
Great thread, thank you - will add it to my book of good advice. Does anybody have a feel if by adjusting the preload, how much does this change the height of the frame (i.e. when you sit on a bike with more preload, it should sink less initially, impacting your ground clearance. Thanks again, Kevin.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Got it.
Wanted to post back to describe how I went about adjusting my rear shocks. The problem was I had no idea what they were set at as I had recently bought this bike used. To compound the issue, the jam nut and adjustment plate would barely turn.
The first thing I did was to spray the front of the shock with wd-40 and let it sit for a day, then hit it again. To loosen the jam nut I discovered that the spanner wrench you use to move the adjuster plate also fits the jam nut. I used the wrench and a mallet to give it a quick pop to break it free. I did this on both shocks. Not the best method but it works.
I then tried to turn the adjuster plate with the spanner. At first it would not budge but after a minute of trying it also broke free and began to turn easily. I then proceeded to turn both adjuster plates clockwise until they bottomed out. The shaft now is showing the maximum number of threads and is now at the LOWEST setting. I applied anti-seize paste to the threads so in the future I will not have such a hard time. I also applied some paint to the bottom of each shock as a reference. I then turned each shock one full turn counterclockwise. This should now be at the "second setting". To finish I ran the jam nut back and forth making sure some of the anti-seize got into the nut's threads.
IMHO, the problem I has has to due to the fact the the adjuster plate and jam nut face forward taking all the grit and water. Hopefully the anti-seize will help.
The first thing I did was to spray the front of the shock with wd-40 and let it sit for a day, then hit it again. To loosen the jam nut I discovered that the spanner wrench you use to move the adjuster plate also fits the jam nut. I used the wrench and a mallet to give it a quick pop to break it free. I did this on both shocks. Not the best method but it works.
I then tried to turn the adjuster plate with the spanner. At first it would not budge but after a minute of trying it also broke free and began to turn easily. I then proceeded to turn both adjuster plates clockwise until they bottomed out. The shaft now is showing the maximum number of threads and is now at the LOWEST setting. I applied anti-seize paste to the threads so in the future I will not have such a hard time. I also applied some paint to the bottom of each shock as a reference. I then turned each shock one full turn counterclockwise. This should now be at the "second setting". To finish I ran the jam nut back and forth making sure some of the anti-seize got into the nut's threads.
IMHO, the problem I has has to due to the fact the the adjuster plate and jam nut face forward taking all the grit and water. Hopefully the anti-seize will help.
Last edited by cmosentine; Aug 1, 2011 at 05:25 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 2
From: New Hampshire
+1 Great design.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,718
Likes: 11
From: Punta Gorda,FL
When you know both shocks are turned as far as they will go put a white fwd/aft stripe on the bottom of each one. Then you can keep track of how many turns you are applying to each shock. If you finish adjusting them and you decide on either fully to the soft or firm setting, turn each shock back just a hair so it doesn't jam into place. This way they wont be frozen in place and require a lot of torque to break loose next time you adjust them.
Tom
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 111
Likes: 3
From: Marriottsville, MD
If you are adjusting for a heavier weight (stiffer ride):
A. Continue to turn the adjuster nut counterclockwise (the nut will move towards the front of the bike) until it stops.
B. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate counterclockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 oclock position.
A. Continue to turn the adjuster nut counterclockwise (the nut will move towards the front of the bike) until it stops.
B. Now using the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate counterclockwise no more than 4 complete turns. Count the number of times the white mark crosses the 6 oclock position.
Thanks >>>> Inthered
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Can't say if it would damage the shock, but I never like to run anything turned out to lock. I always back things off a bit.
I plan on adjusting my shocks this weekend. Iam the lazy type and since its so hot I just want set it for max weight as easy as possible. Do I really need to know where my shocks are set at before I count turns ? If I don't count anything and just turn it counterclockwise until it stops turning will I be at 4 turns or will I damage the shock ?
Thanks >>>> Inthered
Thanks >>>> Inthered
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,718
Likes: 11
From: Punta Gorda,FL
I plan on adjusting my shocks this weekend. Iam the lazy type and since its so hot I just want set it for max weight as easy as possible. Do I really need to know where my shocks are set at before I count turns ? If I don't count anything and just turn it counterclockwise until it stops turning will I be at 4 turns or will I damage the shock ?
Thanks >>>> Inthered
Thanks >>>> Inthered
When you adjust the shocks all the way one direction or the other, they tend to somewhat stick in place, so just barely back them off or the next time you decide to adjust them it may be harder to break them loose. It's the same with the retention nuts. I tighten them just a bit beyond snug, with no Loctite applied, or they are also hard to break loose next time.
The first time is a PITA, after that it's quick and simple whenever you adjust the shocks.
My SE Fat Boy is lowered in the rear, so I have less clearance to work under it.
I never have used my lift. I lay on my side and adjust them while the bike is on the jiffy stand.
My SE Fat Boy comes with the low profile shocks, so my measurements will be different then a regular model.
Here's the measurements I took:
With me sitting on the bike (190lbs)
Softest to firmest setting raises the bike .9"
With no one on the bike
Softest to firmest setting raises the bike .4"
I took the measurements with the bike level, from the end of the rear fender to the ground. It was 12.95 softest and 13.35 firmest with no one on the bike. Then with my 190 lbs on the seat it was 12.3 softest and 13.2 firmest.
Tom
Last edited by tmitchellof PG; Aug 19, 2011 at 10:48 AM.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 862
Likes: 3
From: East Tennessee
Shocks
Why do they make it so hard to do and understand how to do it? Been thinking and trying to adjust "09 Heritage shocks for several months and know I will have to visit dealer $$ & take a chance. 
